|
red drop tops shit is tip top.
|
Originally Posted by hustler
(Post 270539)
red drop tops shit is tip top.
|
Originally Posted by y8s
(Post 268557)
why? isn't caster good for road feel and turn-in?
|
Suspension:
Tein Flex, standard springs RB Solid front sway bar no rear sway bar Chassis: hard dog sport double diag, I guess that makes the car a little stiffer Brakes: Goodwin BBK EBC Greenstuff pads Plain ol' brake fluid Drivetrain: 3.90 torsen from a '99 1.8 from a '94 Wheel/Tires: 16x7 K1's 205/45/16 T1R's |
Originally Posted by Zabac
(Post 268852)
Ok I'll play...
Koni Yellows, full stiff front, full soft rear GC coilover, 650 front 450 rear RB hollow bar front, stock 12mm rear 205/40 16's Azenis fleabay tower bar 4 pt. double diagonal roll bar Hawk HP+ all around Brembo slotted rotors SS lines and ATE superblue 4.1 Torsen uninstalled: ES bushing kit with diff mounts, MMR motor mounts all new bearings, ball joints and tie rods from 93LE (as soon as i get some time off work) still want FM butterfly brace and rails (or homemade one) 6UL 15x9's with 275 hoosiers for auto-x new rear top hats for a bit more travel 750lbs front springs Are those the same as Koni adjustable? __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
I think all Koni's (for the Miata) are adjustable.
I should have been more specific, they are the Sports, yellow in color, sorry if this was missleading pal, I have just always heard them refered to as Yellows around my neck of the woods. |
Well I asked because a few sites list the koni adjustable and the koni race..
http://www.gomiata.com/konadshocab8.html Either way im glad to see what spring rates you using with them as I see them in my future. __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
I am pretty sure the race ones are adjustable as well, actually I am 100% sure.
Hope this helps. Lev-my advice to you (and this is what I would do if i was doing it again) is to buy just the rear ones new, and buy blown front ones (cheap) and have them re-valved to race spec, and get a 700-750 spring instead of the 650. That's how I would do it if I had the knowledge then that I do now. |
Did you have to have yours revalved for the springs your using now? Would they need to be revalved for 500lb springs?
__________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
No, these are new out of the box settings, car feels pretty good with the hollow bar up front, but I feel like I need a little more spring and shock to get faster...esp. once I start using hoosiers. The rear feels really awesome though, I am very happy with it, very good throttle control (I don't know if that's the correct term).
|
|
Okay
I've got GC/Eibach Race/Tokico Full soft rear, full stiff front FM Sways Chaps S15 15x7 w/ 205/45/15 Yokahama S Drives Brakes will have to wait till I finish with my turbo :-D |
Originally Posted by naarleven
(Post 270976)
Okay
I've got GC/Eibach Race/Tokico Full soft rear, full stiff front FM Sways Chaps S15 15x7 w/ 205/45/15 Yokahama S Drives Brakes will have to wait till I finish with my turbo :-D __________________ Best Car Insurance | Auto Protection Today | FREE Trade-In Quote |
Originally Posted by levnubhin
(Post 270891)
Well I asked because a few sites list the koni adjustable and the koni race..
Both are yellow and are adjustable. The "Race" shock could be considered a re-valved version of the "Sport", as they are both of similar construction, but their valving adjusts over a different range. I'd suggest calling up Shaikh at FatCat Motorsports and Brian at Goodwin Racing to discuss the correct shock for your application. I've had the opportunity to learn from them both at some length- very knowledgeable dudes. Links: http://www.fatcatmotorsports.com/ http://www.good-win-racing.com/ |
Joe, how sure of that are you, I know the race shocks are shorter than the sports, but I could have sworn they were silver as well. I can't seem to find any pics and the pic on brians site show a sport shock. I'm a littl lost on this one.
|
I've got a ghetto setup... I guess two owners ago the guy cut the springs and they were way soft, so it was sitting on the bump stops, so the previous owner found some Escort Wagon springs (yeah...) and slapped 'em on the front, then it was sitting too high (duh), so he used some sort of permanent spring compressor to bring the height down to normal again... These springs are like rocks...
But the upside is the car came with a complete parts car, so I'm going to drop in the stock '94 shocks/springs into it shortly, hopefully it'll clear up the crazy bumpy ride. |
Stance GR+ coil-overs (standard 8k/f, 6k/r springs)
FM sways front and rear Gearhead's garage endlinks stock 15's w/ Azenis stock rotors w/ EBC Greenstuff pads waiting on longer/heavier rear springs and tires for my 6UL's... |
why would you only increase the rear spring rates? Sounds like you're going to have a real tail happy setup.
|
Originally Posted by johndoe
(Post 272447)
why would you only increase the rear spring rates? Sounds like you're going to have a real tail happy setup.
|
You need new rear top mounts, there simply isn't enought travel back there.
I would not go heavier spring in the rear. |
| All times are GMT -4. The time now is 09:56 PM. |
© 2024 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands