Put in a quarter inch npt to 1/8 inch adaptor, screw sensor into that, it should offset it enough, so long as it does not put it in the way of the PPF or wiring or the like

 

F’in brilliant. I just walked out of my friendly local hardware store with the bushing and NPT tap. Less than $20, came with a free 5 gallon bucket.

Major thanks dawg.

 

icedawg saved the day. I cut down the 1/4 NPT bushing a bit and threaded it in with some green Loctite. It should stay put and sealed. As you can see, the tip of the Ballenger sensor sticks out just a bit - it could probably go further, but I didn’t feel like screwing with it.

 

Looks great, well done!
The sensor may be vulnerable when you mount the T back in the car, so you might need to remove it during mounting, but with the green loctite holding the bushing in place that should work out pretty well.

 

Agreed. I was thinking that I’d just be careful with it because I didn’t want to mess up the depth setting of the sensor, but after some careful measurements I found that the sensor will only touch the 6th gear fork if I bottom it out in the bushing. Which is practically impossible to do. So the sensor is out. I just have to remember to put it back in before I fill the trans.

The last time I filled the trans, I forgot to install the speedo gear first, so I dumped the better part of a quart of unicorn blood on the floor. Ouch.

 

Just saw this old thread. John drilled the drain plug on our AZ6's with temp sensors. Some had coolers, others did not. We changed the fluid often enough that the loss of the mag plug might not have been an issue. We never had any indication it was anyway.

 

I'm catching up on the details here.

For one hot moment, I thought about inserting the temperature sensor from the bottom into what I thought was a nice open area. It's not. Don't do this. Yes, the sensor would be protected from strikes by the front part of the transmission, but there's not enough clearance inside the case.


The flange is 21mm thick, so the sensor would need to be more than 21mm back from the face of the main case.


The shift fork comes as close as 29mm to the flange face.


Since the bottom of the "sump" is above the bolt holes here, you're really close to the fork, vertically speaking. Just not going to happen.

 

From where I drilled, the minimum clearance to the shift fork is ~15mm from the outside of the case.



This is where the hole aligns onto the shift fork. So you can see, if you went towards the cabin a bit more (to the right in this pic), you could gain a couple of mm. But it's really not worth it, IMHO. Just use the 1/4 NPT to 1/8 NPT bushing like I did.