@Madjak runs the delrin bushings with success. I'll let him chime in. The bronze bushings are only $1.97 each.

Yes I run the Iglidur G bearings in metric sizing (only 1mm thick). It means the sleeve size is a bit larger and you don't really need the crush washers. I purchased them in 30mm lengths and just hacksaw them down so that 1 and a bit cover the entire sleeve.

My pricing was $1.50 AUS per bearing in a batch of 50... plus shipping. Looking at my receipt is cost me $89 AUS which in current conversion is only $65USD. The best pricing for the bronze was nearly $5 a bearing either shipped from the US or locally sourced.

I've run 12 events on them now, and pulled the suspension down a month ago. They look the same as when I put them in so it looks like the wear level is fine.

I wonder how iglide J bearings compare to plain old delrin, from a lubricity and wear standpoint. How long do full delrin bushings last…or have they not been around long enough for anyone to have a good feel for that yet? I suppose it depends a lot on lubrication and contamination.

$5 per foot translates to roughly $0.50 per bearing, assuming you cut them into eleven 1" pieces. So about 1/4 the cost of bronze. I would actually make them one long piece and drill a hole or three in the center for the grease to get in via the zerk fittings.

Do delrin bushings squeak like dry urethane? I would imagine not.

That sounds encouraging. So you run 20mm x 22mm bearings? Is there any noticeable slop in the poly bushings, being that they are about .010" undersize?

They just slide in with a decent amount of force. You need something the correct OD to push them out again. They are snug enough so they won't turn against the urethane which squishes them against the sleeve a little.

I should point out that I don't drive my car on the road so I can't comment on suitability for a daily driver. I also don't run any grease in the joint. They are dry, so no zerks required.

edit: yes mine are the 20mm x 22mm x 30mm bearings. part number GSM-2022-30

Looks like I can get pre hard 416SS from McMaster in 20mm precision ground, but Im sure it would be a bitch to drill, if its even possible…

Otherwise they also have 20mm 12L14 precision ground for cheap. Leaded means SUPER easy to machine, 65 ksi yield isn't bad, and it can be case hardened if one were so inclined.

Wow, only $1 each when you buy 50…


As long as I can figure out the 20mm shafting, this might be a winner in my opinion.

yeah metric stuff is cheaper here and in Europe due to volumes... as long as you can source the bar it would be a better longer term option, even if you have to replace them every few years.

I purchased a 3m bar of peeled 20mm 4140 for like $30... had to buy some ally bar to fill in the min $50 order. I did all the drilling myself on my hobby lathe, just had use lots of lubricant and sharp bits. I used a grinder with a cuttoff to rough cut each sleeve then lathe down each end. Once I got into the flow it only took a couple of hours on the lathe to get them all done.

I haven't been making delrin bushings long enough to get a feel for it, but there are plenty of other cars and platforms that have been running it since forever. Im sure there is data out there somewhere. According to DuPont, dirt contamination is the largest cause of wear. Delrin doesn't squeak, usually.


12L14 drills like butter, but it will rust so fuking fast(galvanic corrosion from lead contacts). Also look at 1144SP. Have you checked onlinemetals.com? I find them to be much cheaper for stock than McMaster.

Yes online metals has good prices, but not much metric stainless other than 304 and 316.

These guys have an awesome selection of 20mm ground rods for good prices and you can buy them is 1,3 or 6 feet:

Stainless Steel Metric Rods On Alexandria Precision

Nitronic 60 or "N60" is another attractive option from Onlinemetals. Only available in imperial sizes, but it is very corrosion and wear resistant and has 60 ksi yield. Not sure how it machines though.

Any reason you are choosing metric over standard? The bronze bushings are cheaper than the delrin you posted.

You're car is the one with the sweet 3d printed brake ducts right? I've been wanting those real bad. Your fab skill are on point, excited to see what you come up with.

Edit: just realized you mentioned cutting your own bearings earlier.

If im not mistaken, nitronic is similar to inconel and machines as such. Which means it needs specialized tools on rigid machinery with flood coolant and aggressive machining. And its still a bitch.

https://www.hpalloy.com/docs/HP_Alloy_MACHINING.pdf

machining nitronic 60

LOL machinability in the teens and low 20s.

Are you referring to me? I'm not sure you are, but I have 3D printed intakes on the front lip for my brake ducts. I've had them for a year or so.

https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1457068427

Edit: Oh I just found MX592's 3D printed stuff... awesome air intake for the oil cooler! It's got me inspired to make something like it. We need to start a 3D printed section on this forum.

I was referring to him. You have the r package lip. We tried to adapt it to the gv lip with some success. He already has it for the gv lip.

I remember now it was you I was making it for. I never did get the GV one working as no-one near me had the GV front lip. It's a bit hard to remote prototype!

Just reporting in that the SADfab FLCA offset bushings at 4.0" pinch weld height are right at about -3.5 degrees of camber in the middle of their adjustment range. I was able to get to -4.0 in the front pretty easy.

I received the full delrin kit that I ordered from sean today in the mail. I figured I'd spend the day trying to get as much of the suspension torn down as possible. I already had poly bushings in all locations so removing the bushings isn't quite as hard as when I installed the poly bushings. Still a fucking pain in the dick, mostly because I don't have a press and I'm trying to do everything with a one of those giant HF c-clamp looking 4wd balljoint tool(it weighs like 25 lbs), fuck me with a spiked ball bat.

Tomorrow I am going to buy a vice to hold that ball joint tool and a 12" c-clamp. I don't know why I don't have either of those things yet. I did get 3 corners of the car completely disassembled, but it was slow going. Going to try to wrap it up tomorrow.

I'm also swapping out lower front ball joints for the extended ones and changing from a 700/400 spring set up to 800/550. E're thing gon' be different.

That ball joint tool sucks, get a helper, makes it 10 times easier. I will say you are less likely to destroy a control arm like i did that way.

Also don't forget a good corded 1/2 chuck drill, and corresponding drill bit. My cordless drill battery lasted 1.5 bushings on a full charge.