Just Checked and they are spot on 1mm

I guess I just meant easier keeping it consistent with the rest of the car and not having a mixture of bubble flares and inverted flares to deal with, I know if I need to repair or replace anything in the future they're all inverted flare apart from the BMW module.

You may need a straight union for the rear of the car when you separate the left and right circuits at the diff

Just a bit more info for anyone doing this swap, I bought this cable to plug into the OBD port of the BMW unit and it works great, cost me about $16 when I bought it last year, came with the required software.
BMW OBD Diagnostic Tool
Allows you to properly bleed the system, test the brake application of each wheel, check wheel speed sensor outputs etc.

If you have an AIM dash you can also connect the CAN output from the unit to the dash and receive wheel speeds, fault indication plus more I forget.

I'm also running a Haltech elite 1500 ECU and I've got the individual digital wheel speed outputs from the BMW unit feeding into that, this allows me to use the inputs for vehicle speed, traction control, launch control and also the ability to log individual wheel speeds.

I thought that the CAN broadcast only happened if some percentage of the original BMW CAN bus was there, like the dash and the ABS module ... can you share information about how this works?

I think I may be running out of inputs on my Haltech, but did you basically hook up the four speed wires directly to IOs on the Haltech? And everything "just works" ?

I have the AIM MXS Strada 1.2 and one of the CAN input protocols is for the MK60, Just hooked up the CAN wires and the dash sends the necessary signal to the MK60 unit for it to output data over CAN.
Screenshot of AIM setup below


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f239b47f4b.jpg
For the Haltech inputs, yes I just hooked each digital output on the MK60 to a digital input on the Haltech. Just have to calibrate the speed in the Haltech ESP software.

With any car that is is different than the physical BMW specs, you should use motorsports tune which is set for your individual car specs - weight, wheelbase, track, tire circumference, calipers bore sizing, brake rotor diameters, trigger wheel teeth count, etc.
With the motorsports tune, the unit outputs all the info over CAN and all the BMW stuff is gone. You also have the option for the can bus rate - either 500k or 1m
For the OBD port - you get a small program by Continental (MiniDiag.exe) which you use to connect to the unit to read error codes (to check what's going on if your MIL light comes on), set the unit in bleeding mode when you have to bleed the brakes and so on.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e1efe0b6cf.png

Here is Amazon link if one doesn't want to deal with AliExpress:

After sitting down and looking at it yesterday, it seems like one way to clean it up a bit would be to use M12 bubble flare dual banjos into the ABS unit with one of the fittings being a M10 bubble that you thread the pressure sensor right into and the other fitting being a m10 inverted for a MC feed line.

edit: accidentally a word

yeah I bought a set of these off amazon.

This is a great idea. You might need to run a line off the banjo still due to the bulk of the sensor, but not a big deal imo. I think im gonna try this.

Here is the m12x1 banjo bolt for anyone looking.
The issue now is finding an m12 fitting with flared m10x1 threads. The hunt continues...

You'd want a dual outlet banjo bolt, then you'd stack the banjo fittings with crush washers between them. An example of this in use would be the front of motorcycles with dual brakes, either on the master itself or on one of the calipers.

Oops. Linked the wrong one. Post amended.

You may have harder time removing the air surrounding the sensor with that double banjo bolt since the sensor side is a dead end and the opening not straight vertical above the sensor so the air bubble could naturally escape ...

Found the rest. They don't make flared banjo fittings so you will need an adapter to make this work.

The adapters. First one is inverted flare. Second is bubble if you want to go that route. But I think you need inverted flare for these.
-3an to m10x1 inverted flare

​​​​​​​Bubble.
-3an to m10x1 bubble flare

You can actually just flare 3/16 brake line to fit -3AN fittings. You just need a 37* flare tool, AN tube nuts, and AN tube sleeves.

Hey folks, great thread! Very informative. I'm in the middle of this conversion. I've completed the plumbing/mechanical, and starting electrical.
I've have one question I can't find an answer to on any forum I search.

Pin 39 of the MK60 is an input labeled "ACS passive button" or "DSC passive switch" depending on which document you read.
My assumption is that Pin 39 can be left unconnected. Can someone confirm what to do with that pin?

Thanks!

Yes pin 39 is not used

Thanks!!