Yeah id probably be in for a set too.

I'll PM you once the dust settles, no promises :)

There's a very good chance you're overthinking this.

My bracket is a piece of steel, probably 2" wide, maybe 1/8-3/16" thick, I don't remember. Heck, it looks like I actually used this piece for some TIG practice at one point.

There are four holes in it.

The depth of the sensor is set by the washer stack.

The nut for the sensor isn't even welded on!

You can do this with some steel from Home Depot, a grinder with a cut-off wheel, a drill with a slow setting, a pilot drill bit, and a step drill bit.

Good luck!

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...ec4426b5f.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c9aab10c1.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...15ef7ff2c.jpeg

You're right, but it is the offseason for me, need to waste some time on a side quest. :)

For you guys using the stock ABS hole up front - what is your clearance like? I'm seeing like 0.9mm-ish. Spec is 1.0-1.5mm.

I didn't pull the front knuckle, just 3d printed a jig to drill a pilot hole.
Attachment 228057
Attachment 228058
Attachment 228059

Rear was 1/4" aluminum plate and a single washer.
Attachment 228060


For anyone else wondering, basic ballpark is 5mm of spacers up front and 8.5-9mm-ish total rear bracket + spacer height. YMMV.

3D printed template is pretty damn cool. So those are ABS front spindles? I had picked up some non-ABS ones that has that area blank. Haven't even started to put things together though to see how I can measure and drill holes for the sensor.

Yeah, I don't know much about this stuff but it worked for me. Sketched out the stock abs sensor, test fit to make sure it lined up. Same for the BMW sensor. Overlaid the two, nub is a tight fit into the sensor hole, tight fit hole into the other side for the stock bolt, a hole through the entire thing for a center punch.

Attachment 228056

Clamp it on, back the stock bolt out to flush as marked, center punch, drill pilot hole, remove template, drill final hole.

Anyway, yeah, this is a stock 04 MSM hub. Figuring out how to locate on non-ABS hubs seems beyond my skills, haha.

I suspect the circumfrential location isn't all that critical, and measuring the necessary radius isn't too hard. Take the upright off, mark a circle at the right radius, eyeball a spot on that circle to drill the main hole. After that use the 3d-printed jig to drill the bolt hole.

Figuring out how to mount the upright in a drill press seems like it's probably the hardest bit.

--Ian

Well, the main hole placement is somewhat important because both ABS sensors are the same circumference, but the sensor pickup on the BMW sensors are offset from center and located by four tangs that expand towards the edge of the overall circumference as you move away from the pickup.

Both sensors also have the same pickup angle, which is parallel to a line drawn through the center of the mounting hole, just with different offsets from the center of the sensor, which is why the jig works for stock ABS knuckles.

edit: I guess it wouldn't be that bad if you figured out how much the BMW sensor was offset from centerline and made a quick little jig that toothed into the abs ring

First time attempting brake lines / flaring has been interesting, to say the least.

I will probably end up redoing them all in the near future, but anyway, it made sense to me to keep the stock rear brake line and tee to use for the right rear since it is well anchored. The crossover Left Rear line that goes out the top of the tee is easily bent to point forward and anchored. Finding a M10x1 plug for the stock tee was somewhat annoying since Brakequp makes one (BQ502) but doesn't sell it on their site.

Here it is: https://www.belmetric.com/double-fla...g-p-13727.html

Plumbing hell
 

I’m chasing leaks at the Brakequip T-fitting and I’m out of ideas. I’m confident I have everything right, but it still leaks. I’m using 3/16 brake tubing, with 10x1 thread 3/16 inverted flare fittings. I’m using a Titan 3/16 double flaring tool and the flares look great. I’ve used the tool to create 20+ other flares on the car with no leaks. Yet, when I pressure bleed the system at 5 psi, I get leaks through the ID of the fittings. I’ve tightened the fitting to the point when any more and the threads will strip. What am I missing?

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...173f68135.jpeg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...542b6a892.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f66846624.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...90b8825a1.jpeg

Is this on one or both of the T fittings? If it’s just one, maybe a bad T.

Is it the camera playing tricks, or is that a weird non-oem fitting you've got there? It looks oddly sized and shaped to me.


I wrapped up my install today, just need to do some tidying.

For wiring I ended up buying a Painless 70213 and put two 20a fuses in it. One each to the ABS 20a wires.
For the smaller 5a power wire and for the 3a painless trigger wire I reused my old ABS switch wire that is blue with a white stripe and 10a from factory.
Wired up a small LED for the ABS sensor failure and I noticed that triggering bleed in INPA also illuminates it.

For the brake trigger, which is ground normally and open when the brake is depressed I bought a BMW salmon relay with pigtail off eBay $5. It is wired as such:
30 - Ground (just connect it to the 85 wire)
87a - Output to ABS module
85 - Ground
86 - Brake trigger (green wire)

Pic from earlier today before everything was plugged in. Mounted the painless to an aluminum strip and 3d printed a little bracket for the salmon relay to mount it to the aluminum. Reused two OEM studs.

Attachment 228055

edit: And for anyone reading this later, I had to slightly sand the prongs of the front ABS sensors to get the proper clearance.

AFAIK, should be sinking to ground. Add a pull up to whatever you need.

Maiden voyage today, it works.

I've got kind of a soft pedal. Can someone explain how the bleeding through INPA is supposed to work, maybe I'm doing it wrong.

1. Press button to bleed
2. Press pedal like 80%
3. Open bleeder
4. ABS light comes on, ABS pump cycles loud, then quiet, then ABS light goes out
5. Close bleeder
6. Foot off pedal

That is correct enough that it should work. You should be cycling through the corners. Feel free to bleed without activating the ABS as well.

Can you use these BMW sensors on their own as wheel speed sensors for TC?

That's going to depend on the TC system you're using. The BMW sensors are "active" sensors (which I think are Hall effect). My RaceLogic TC system only supports passive sensors (reluctors), and requires some kind of adapter if you want to use it with active ones.

--Ian

I think Socals14 would be using his Haltech

https://support.haltech.com/portal/e....18-SensorType looks like you can assign either Reluctor or Hall as a VSS.

Correct. This would seem like good news? I don't have ABS but have been thinking about TC. When I replaced the front hubs, I opted for ABS rings for this purpose. Front ABS knuckles are cheap as well. The BWW sensors are cheaper than Miata sensors it appears.