Mk60 ABS Installation Guide
 

Mk60 ABS Installation Guide


Foreword, This is a stupid idea and no one should do this. You are risking your life and the lives of other by messing around with your brakes. If you do this and end up running down a group of nuns holding orphaned babies, I take no responsibility for your actions. This is for informational and theoretical purposes only. Do not attempt. Your mileage may vary, etc...

Hi All,

My name is Christopher Lewis with Shakydog Racing https://www.facebook.com/ShakyDogRacing/. I have spent about 8 months working on an ABS system with 3DM Motorsports www.3dmmotorsport.com and Racing Harness Technologies https://www.facebook.com/RacingHarnessABS/. Together, we have created a basic package to allow this awesome system to be installed into a Miata. This system is targeted at the track oriented crowd and like all other performance parts and upgrades, you are doing this at your own risk.

3DM and RHT have compiled a basic guide overviewing the generic installation into any car.

MK60 Motorsport ABS ? 3DM Motorsport

In this thread I will show you what I have gathered about installing the Teves Mk60 ABS system into a Miata. My experience is with 1999 Miata’s so you might need to adjust accordingly to your car if a difference should arise.
The basic concepts should carry over to all NA and NB vehicles though.

Also, there There is a wealth of info in this thread related to the Mk60 system:

https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/s...tandalone-info

I have copied some of the parts lists from that above referenced thread for the following list.

The install all consists of four basic parts;

1. Installing the various sensors

2. Installing the ABS pump unit

3. Plumbing the lines

4. Filling and bleeding the system.


There are a number of parts you will need for an installation. I have tried to list them below with part numbers but again, verify what you need before you buy.

1x E46 M3 ABS Pump/Controller
2x E46 M3 Brake Pressure Sensors P/N: 34521164458
1x E46 M3 Integrated Accel/Yaw Sensor P/N: 34526764018
1x Z3 3.0i Front Right Wheel Speed Sensor - P/N: 34526752690
1x Z3 3.0i Front Left Wheel Speed Sensor - P/N: 34526752689
2x E46 M3 Rear Wheel Speed Sensors - P/N: 34526752683
1x Custom MK60 ABS Harness

The above parts are available through 3DM Motorsports. Additional parts needed to complete the installation are;

Brake Line and assorted fittings and tools . I use all 3/16” brake lines. The only issue is finding 12mm brake line fittings for the abs unit. Not hard to find but just be aware most of them are for 1/4” lines.

Front Non-ABS spindles with undrilled ABS sensor bosses

Rear ABS uprights with sensor brackets. (You can make non-abs rear uprights to work with a bit of fabrication)

I will go into more detail about specific line fittings during the detailed sections later.

Let’s start with the tone rings on the half shafts. First, there are a couple different styles of half shaft so make sure that you can press the tone rings onto the ones that you have or just go buy abs half shafts.

Here is is a factory half shaft with the flat area for the tone ring.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1102b7a01.jpeg


Here are are two other half shafts,. The one on the left is from Autozone and hlso has provisions for a tone ring. The one on the right is a factory half shaft but is too large in diameter and lack the flat area for the tone ring.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2e49ef988.jpeg

I have found that using a piece of 3 1/2” pipe about 3 inches long make a good press for installing the tone rings.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...13dd2168b.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...87577ce8a.jpeg

The rings will will go on farther than necessary so be careful about getting positioned.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9a5e3f869.jpeg

Here it is pressed on too far

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...48c61c67f.jpeg

This is correct

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f9300d2d8.jpeg

So now let’s talk about the rear uprights. You are going to need some off of an ABS Miata along with the sensor brackets. They look like this
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f400301cc.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...98b2e0894.jpeg

Once you get them cleaned up and prepped and installed as you would any other rear upright, you need to modify the sensor bracket. Remove it and red loctite a bolt into the hole where the single Allen head bolt is in the above photo. Once the loctite is set, cut the head off the bolt filling the hole. Then mill off the surface of the sensor until the end of the sensor is .040-.060” from the tone ring. Locate where the sensor bolt should be located and drill and tap it for a 6mmx1.00 bolt

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a4cac023c.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2c841c35b.jpeg

Once the the sensor is installed, secure the sensor wire to the upper control arm and route it toward the front of the rear wheel well.

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...9a366b1e4.jpeg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...2c4407cf9.jpeg

The routing of the sensor wires is forward to the front of the wheel wells where I have mounted some BMW sensor plug holders. I got these off of some cars at the pull-a-part. All the bmw’s of this era seem to use some variation of them. I just trim the mounting ears off the back and rivet them in place. They make for a nice neat installation. With these these in place, you are done with the rear sensors. Just route the harness down the PPF and plug into the sensors.

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fb0d79d25.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e008c6a9d.jpeg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f8e3fc1e5.jpeg

Now for the fronts. This is easy. Just send me your undrilled front spindles. I will machine them for the proper hole placement and send them back to you. You install them using hubs with tone rings and bolt the sensors in. Now depending on what hubs you are using, you will have to shim the sensors to have them properly located over the tone rings. You can simply use a stack of washers.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...99911b31b.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...95639ea1c.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...fffea2a23.jpeg

We decided to utilize the stock location for mounting the ABS pump. So the harness has its sensor lengths based off of that location. If you decide to use a different location, you will need to alter the sensor lengths to suit.

This is is the design of the pump bracket that we came up with. It is a bit low and hard to install the harness on it. But it has worked with any problems. We are trying some different designs and will post up our results later.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...403afbf91.jpeg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1f719ddca.jpeg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f30a279e5.jpeg

Here are a few pics from our latest bracket design. It uses the stock bracket with the rear legs cut off and welded to a base plate. It bolts into several of the stock threaded holes.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...8c68bc6f1.jpeg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...3b8bb3957.jpeg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...637f5f02c.jpeg

So once you get the unit mounted, it’s a simple matter of plumbing it up. Just remember that the markings are in German so V means front and H mean rear. Right and left are the same. I suggest that you REALLY concentrate on getting the plumbing in the right way. Switching the front and rear will give you a car that brakes fine until you go into ABS and then wants to kill you.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e77f285b8.jpeg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...b01f76a312.png
Here you can see how we mounted the pressure sensors in the lines coming from the master cylinder. Also you can see the plug in the side of the master cylinder where the second front brake line used to exit. You could mount the pressure sensor in that location and is probably what we will do with our next install. For this one we used 10mm tees with 12mm to 10mm adapters. Part numbers are brakequip bq44 for the pressure sensor adapters and bq91A tee fitting. Plumb the sensor for the rear line in after the proportioning valve.


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f70860af7.jpeg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...1ebade691a.jpg
We now have the ability to machine the rear uprights just like the factory ones.

Reserved

Sounds expensive

reserved for later

Did you use the front BMW sensors because they were easy to make work or because you thought you had to? And was the Accel/yaw and pressure sensors to keep the error light off or does the stock programming work better with them?
We’ll be doing this soon on our NA in LDRL, but with the Motorsports flash and no Accel/yaw/pressure sensors.

We used the BMW sensors because they were easy, cheap, proven, available and robust. As far as the pressure sensors and the DSC sensor, it is my understanding that the unit will work without the sensors but will not perform at an optimum level.

They are very easy to install. From what I’ve read, the ABS unit really needs these sensors to know what’s going on to properly regulate pressures to the individual wheels

I work with Curly. We've done this install on a number of BMWs and Porsches as a standalone unit with no pressure or yaw sensors but with the motorsport software and have been planning on running it on the Miata for a long time. We will report back on our install and hopefully add more data to this thread. Props for doing this!! Really pumped to see this stuff finally trickle down to Miatas. Anxiously awaiting to see more photos.

May I ask what the reasoning is with not installing the sensors? They are extremely simple to install.

Very relevant to my interests. Thank you for making the actual implementation clear - the concept is great but knowing how someone has done it successfully is incredibly useful.

If you've got a mill, why not just mill the rear mounts from stock? Maybe I'm just a nerd with a mini-mill, but that seems more straightforward to me.

Do you know of a part number for the ABS pump/controller electrical connector? The off-the-shelf universal harnesses are just hideously expensive for work I'm happy to do myself. I assume, perhaps incorrectly, I can buy a crimper for the terminals for less than the price of a harness.

I have made the rear sensor brackets from scratch using plain stock. If you have the original sensor brackets, its just much quicker and easier to just mill them down.

I have seen a listing somewhere on the BMW forums that list the part number. You could go down to the pick a part and just grab one off a car for like $5. I think the real trick is knowing what kind of wire to use for the sensors and whether its twisted pair and all the various connectors and pins, etc...

I have learned in all my years to just go do what I do well and make the money to buy from someone who does their thing well. Doug Wardell does harnesses well. Without guys like him around, this probably wouldn't be a thing

I was thinking that I'd never seen an E46 in the Pick-N-Pull around here, but a quick search tells me they're not uncommon. I'm really surprised. Definitely the way to go. I'll have to look at the types of wires BMW used.

If I was running a business, absolutely. But I'm a nut who enjoys screwing around with his car(s). If I'd only done what I know well fifteen years ago, I never would have picked up a wrench and had all the fun I've had in the intervening years. I may end up down the buy-a-harness route, but I'll probably screw up a few times before I get there :)

Thanks again for sharing your work!

For those few of us who are using the Keisler Automation Spindles and the Toyota MR2 integrated hub, bearing, abs sensor would you be willing to disassemble a front hub and see if there is a way to integrate the BMW sensor onto the internal tone ring of the MR2 hub?

OH baby! 2019 is turning out to be a good year for Miatas.
E46 ABS and K24Z swaps slot nicely into TT/ST4.

NASA 2019 Rules:
I'm seriously interested. I was planning to swap the NB2 ABS full system over the winter, but this makes a lot more sense with ST4 in mind. I can see at least half a second a lap between a proper 4 channel system and the NB2 "it's nice in the rain and doesn't flat spot your tires" ABS. My buddy with a Ford Motorsports ABS module in his TT3 Mustang always surprises me how late he can brake. This gets us a bunch closer to any of the competitors with modern brake systems (M3 and Evo 10 come to mind).

How is this whole process going to work? Like will it all be listed on the 3DM website? Is there a Miata specific harness, or would be using the universal one? It sounds like this will be a Miata specific harness. I wouldn't mind paying for a complete wiring solution (assuming it's similarly priced to the other harness' listed on their site), but I'm not going to spend $1k on a what becomes a very expensive flying lead harness. Also what's the time frame?

[QUOTE=TNTUBA;1548151]For those few of us who are using the Keisler Automation Spindles and the Toyota MR2 integrated hub, bearing, abs sensor would you be willing to disassemble a front hub and see if there is a way to integrate the BMW sensor onto the internal tone ring of the MR2 hub?[/QUOTE

Check and see if the mr2 sensor are active. If so you can use them.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...f5994db9fb.png


The 2 Mk60 equipped Miata’s are currently taking it to almost everyone else at the 24.

[QUOTE=fmcokc;1548165]They work with the Miata ABS system, so I am assuming they aren't active.

Just wanted to share a little feedback about the ABS system that I received from a driver. He joined us at our race this last October at Hallett for the WRL race. Also, the car he was driving is currently leading the WRL overall season points in no small part to this system.



It's not that I don't appreciate the power of technology, it's just that there are some things I'd rather do myself. You say your automated manual transmission shifts faster, gets better gas mileage and contributes to a better lap time around the Nordschleife? I think that's great, for you, but I prefer to shift for myself because I enjoy doing it thank you. I don't care if it makes my lap times slower.


All this to say that while I came into my weekend in Tramp with it's fancy ABS braking system carrying a healthy dose of skepticism, I was soon won over. The system itself is unobtrusive, which was a relief since I recall back in the mid '90's when I first drove a Miata factory equipped with ABS and found the pedal feel much compromised compared to my experience with earlier NA's. So a pedal with good feedback was a nice surprise, but when you start using the brakes hard is when you really realize the benefits!


The best illustration of the system's capability came early in the weekend while working to pass faster cars with slower lap times. First a bit of background is in order. As anyone who has spent any time on track in a Miata will be able to relate to, the cars (particularly well prepared cars like Tramp and Moose) turn fantastic lap times considering how little horsepower they pack. But this means that when a driver of a lesser car (or a driver with lesser capabilities) but with more power presents themselves in your windscreen, they can be hard to pass since they simply motor away down every straightaway. This leaves you with the challenge of getting around them in the twisty bits and building a sufficient gap before the next straightaway to prevent them from passing you again to continue their rolling road block. So on Saturday morning I started off having the typical Miata experience of closing on the "fast" cars while running Hallett "backwards" (clockwise) through turns 9, 8 and 7 only to have them pull away slightly down the back straight before getting in my way again at turn 6. Turn 6 makes for a real opportunity zone for a pass under late braking since it is a long turn of significantly more than 90 degrees. If you can make your pass coming into the corner, you can scrub a bit of speed mid corner and get back onto a proper line before the corner exit so you can start your run up the short uphill straight. That sets you up to make your escape through turns 5 and 4 putting enough daylight between you and the car you have passed to keep them from horsepowering on by you on the run down the hill into 3, and then hopefully put a still larger gap on them to make them nothing more than a memory when you start the climb out of 2 (sorry for the run on sentence, I got a little excited there, call it red mist). Getting back to the point at hand, passing under braking into 6 can be a tricky business in the no-tech braking system cars I am used to driving. Locking a wheel or getting the car otherwise a bit out of shape all while trying to get turned in can easily make your heroic pass look like more of an amateuristic blunder. With the amazing ability of this system you can dive under most anyone in the braking zone, staying on the gas well after you see your challenger's taillights flair and car take a stance on it's nose as you fly by, then after getting fully in front of them you can go hard on the binders with no thoughts of finesse, turn in wherever you like and the car just slows and turns as if the hand of God reached in to make you the hero you always knew you were. Hallett's notoriously bumpy surface is even a non-issue since they system almost magically brushes that off and takes it in stride.


Later in the race day when the pads started to go off, the pedal started to go soft and the travel got longer, the ABS provided a nice safety net/comfort level that the brakes would be there when you really needed them. The pedal actually seemed to get firmer when you stomped hard enough to actuate the ABS. It was just the kind of reassurance you need to keep running good lap times in an endurance racing environment. In fact, while the ability to make passes you might not even attempt to make otherwise is a major advantage, perhaps the most important benefit of this system is that it can help prevent driver fatigue and provides a safety net that is much appreciated during a long stint on an even longer weekend!


So now the challenge is moving back to my own non-ABS equipped Miata track car. I'm afraid Tramp has made me lazy! So, tell me more about this PDK in your Boxster??? (Just kidding.)
--
Sent from a touch screen device so please pardon my typos!

Has anyone tried the MK60/2 (= gen 2) yet? I think it was used in the E90 3 series and comes with integrated brake pressure sensors.

I'm currently installing the NB2 ABS into my 1992 NA. It *looks* like the big connector at the ABS Block might physically fit MK60 units, so upgrading to an MK60 at a later stage might be a simple task of replacing the wheel speed sensors and adding the wire for the yaw sensor. (And maybe re-pin some wires at the ABS connector)

I think you might be referring to the mk60e5 system. From what I understand, it has to see a can connection to one of the other modules to operate.

Ah, got it. Megasquirt can send a can protocol if I'm not mistaken. But maybe it's better to stick to the proven solution. Do you think it's necessary to remap the ABS ECU for a dual duty car running wide UHP trackday tires (Nankang AR-1), i.e. not slicks?

(Idiotic double post)

Hi All,

Chris pointed me to this thread and I wanted to introduce myself. I am the guy that did the wiring and provided the ABS unit. Please don't hesitate to fire away with questions.

Hi! Thank you for dropping by I think it will be very valuable. Looking forward to seeing this develop in the NA and NB chassis

Looks like I may be going down this path soon. I might have to hit you up to have a set of front spindles modified.

Sorry if I missed it but did you end up having your module programmed with specific info from the car? Or did you end up with the CSL flash or is it just an untouched unit?

And another question, is there any way to implement a rotary type switch to adjust the level of ABS intervention on the fly?

There is not a way to adjust the amount of intervention with this system. That would be Bosch M4/5/6 systems.

We are using the 813.3 and 817.3 units. The 813.3 has the standard M3 program and the 817.3 has the CSL program. I personally think the standard M3 program actually works best for our cars. We are trying some different rear brake setups to see how shifting the bias more rearward affects the abs.

Interesting. I am going to be using a Stoptech four wheel BBK.

And one last question, if you have an on/off switch for the system does the braking function normally when the ABS unit is powered off or are there bias issues?

We are running an adj prop valve on our cars and setting them as if we had no ABS. When the ABS engages, it takes over the biasing of the brakes. I am going to try deleting the prop valve altogether and see how it works next.

When you turn the ABS off, it works just like normal. We have a switch located right next to the Ign switch on the panel for easy access if there is ever a problem and need to turn it off.

I've been doing this to my own HPDE car and ran into a "gotcha" that I thought I'd share.

The pressure sensors thread into inverted flare ports, NOT bubble flare ports. I machined my own fittings based on the assumption that they were bubble-flare, like other fittings on the BMW. They leak. Don't make the same mistake!

Douglas Wardell / 3DMmotorsport have been very supportive and helpful. I'm using their parts kit of ABS module + wheel sensors + pressure sensors + gyro box, but I've done my own wiring. No affiliation, just a happy customer.

Yep, use the Brakequip bq44 12-10mm adapters to avoid that issue.

It might just be your custom fittings? A few months ago I found a 23mm Audi TT master cylinder that has the ABS sensors threaded straight into the ports, and I bought a cheap used one with sensors still installed off ebay to play with. The parts diagrams list it as having 4 M12x1 BBL ports but I had never removed a sensor to confirm. I just pulled a sensor out, and the ports are definitely bubble flare. The sensor has a very heavy chamfer on the outer edge so that it looks like it can work with either bubble or inverted flare.

(For anyone wondering, the Audi master definitely won't bolt up to the miata brake booster, but could maybe work with an adapter plate. I don't think the pushrod length would be correct though. I only bought it because I'm doing a booster delete at the same time as the ABS.)

The brakequip BQ44 looks exactly like the Audi sensors that I have. Dual chamfers to work with inverted or bubble.

https://brakequipproducts.com/wp-con...loads/BQ44.jpg

I understand now why you chose those fittings, but when I originally read this thread, I didn’t like the idea of adapters combined with the tee. Ironically, I figured it was more likely to result in leaks. I thought that since it’s easy to drill a bubble flare port, I’d just make my own, “the right way”.

Shows what I know.

Your directions and part numbers are correct. Folks should beware if they decide to go in a different direction.

I'm now far enough along in my install that I'm comfortable saying a few things I've done are functional and I feel OK sharing the info. I was going to wait until I had a chance to actually test the car, but I've had a few requests, so here goes.

DIY Wiring Tips

Connectors - Junk Yard approach.
I got my connectors from the junk yard. E46es are surprisingly plentiful in NorCal Pick-N-Pulls. I didn't believe it until I searched. You'll need:

4 x blue wheel speed sensor connectors, body side. I don't think they're limited to the E46, in fact I think some of the ones I grabbed came off a 5 series. Grab more than four so you have one or two to break, or so you can select the best at home. Beware that there are gray connectors of similar size/shape that are either from a different ABS system or from the brake pad wear sensors. If you're thinking the connector in your hand might just be faded blue, it's probably gray. The blue connectors are blue like a Smurf.
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...bd02817b34.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...c285c7817e.jpg

1 x 47-pin connector + 2 x 3-pin pressure sensor connectors. I don't recall if the big connector is limited to those E46es that came with the MK60 ABS, I think it was actually used on an earlier ABS system as well. You'll know it when you see it. The MK60 systems have the ABS module really close to the master cylinder and the two pressure sensors are mounted to the master. Take some time at the junk yard to tease apart the wire bundle that goes to the connector and separate out the two pigtails that go to the pressure sensors. There's no need to chop up these lines. If you're going to be really lazy, also go ahead and unbolt the ground wire instead of cutting it. Some time looking and thinking before you cut may save you headaches later. Also note that the ABS system is hidden under a plastic cover that's held on by socket head hex screws or some crazy knockwurst like that. At least I think they were hex, maybe they were Torx? Just bring your entire damn tool box, those BMW over-engineers love using five bolts of differing sizes where one will do.

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...e5d33750a3.jpg
See that tab at the far left side? Pull that straight out and the connector will self-eject off the pump controller. The indexing tabs in the center slot don't seem to matter - I've used two of these connectors, each with different configuration, they work just fine.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...5eb865a284.jpg

1 x 6 pin connector for yaw/accel sensor. This one is a pain. It's located in the cockpit, on the floor, just in front of the driver's seat, towards the outside edge of the car. Your best bet is to cut away the carpet directly in front of the front seat mounting points. If you're grabbing the electronics yourself, you'll want to grab the box it's attached to, but I didn't do that. Only four of the wires are populated. Push the tab on top down to disconnect.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mia...a4fb603280.jpg


While you're at the junk yard cursing at the absurdness of BMW electronics, look for and grab an OBD-II connector and wires from one of the cars. I grabbed one that has a nice little flip door on it. Make sure you get one with plenty of pins populated - you'll need six pins to do it right. The actual pin location/color/etc doesn't matter - you can move the pins around pretty easily, just make sure you have enough of them.

Connectors - BMW E30 Motorsport Parts list. (Thank you https://www.facebook.com/bmwm3motorsport)

There's a pdf file floating around titled "mk60-wiring-instructions.pdf" - http://www.m3e30.fr/medias/files/mk6...structions.pdf

They've listed the BMW part numbers for the relevant connectors. I've copied it here in case the file ever goes missing. I have not verified that these are correct.

MK60 Main Connector (1 required) - 61 13 6 954 574
DSC Speed Sensor Connector (1 required) - 61 13 8 383 300
Pressure Sensor Connector (2 required) - 61 13 8 365 348
Wheel Speed Sensor Connector (4 required) - 61 13 1 392 246


More later

Contacts

BMW E30 Motorsport Parts list

Large Crimp Contact: 61 13 8 364 846
Small Crimp Contact: 61 13 6 901 726
Large Seal Grommet: 61 13 8 372 628
Medium Seal Grommet: 61 13 8 366 245
Small Seal Grommet: 61 13 8 369 722

Cheapo Option

I have a personal loathing for paying retail prices for contacts that come on reels. After some digging, I believe that BMW uses TE Connectivity connectors from the MQS Interconnect System. MQS is "Micro Quadlok Systems". I believe MQS is even in the title of some of the BMW parts diagrams.

I found this pdf file from TE, which has a ton of information: http://www.te.com/content/dam/te-com...system-mqs.pdf I have no idea any more how I found that file, but it may be findable from Mouser or some other source.

There are three sizes of pins used in the OE harnesses. I believe they are as follows:

Small - "Receptacle, 0.63mm". These are female contacts used in the sensor connectors - all four wheel speed connectors, both pressure sensor connectors, and the yaw/accel sensor. The TE part number I used is 965906-1. I bought mine from Mouser - 100 for $16.

Medium - "Receptacle, 1.5mm". These are female contacts used in the large 47-pin connector for the control module. The TE part number I used is 1355556-1. I bought mine from Mouser - $0.129 each.

Large - I did not buy new pins for this, but I'll grab some more dimensions and post info here. These are the connectors for the four power wires in the large 47-pin connector at the control module. Since they're not signal wires and pretty good sized, I just re-used the contacts that came with the junk yard connector.

Seals - For the small and medium connectors, I used TE part number 967067-1. They worked OK, not great. I think the issue was my crimping. I do not have the proper tool (see below). I bought mine from Mouser - $0.146 each.

Crimping

I used the "GM Delphi Weatherpack Crimper Tool", model T-18. It worked great for crimping the wire. It did not work great on the seals, but it did work.

Wire

The wire in the BMW is all metric, so any AWG sizes I suggest are approximate.

The wheel speed sensors use approximately 20 AWG wire. The stuff on the BMW is twisted pair. I used Tefzel shielded twisted pair from ProwireUSA. "20 AWG x 2 Shielded Cable". Part M27500/20SB2T23. Very reasonably priced. I bought their "Shield Terminator With 22 Gauge Lead" and terminated one end of each run at the ABS module end.

I also used the shielded twisted pair (STP) for the yaw sensor data lines.

The other wires I just used TXL 20 AWG wire, also from ProwireUSA. Buy a bunch.

For power/ground to the ABS module, I used some 12 AWG wire I had laying around. I'll post more info about how I wired in the power later.

Prowire suggests that Tefzel is difficult to strip cleanly. They suggest a wire stripper by Ideal and sell it for big money. There's a similar model available far less that does everything you'll need for this job. Also made by Ideal, model 45-092. Strips 22 to 10 AWG. This uses knives to cut the insulation at exact AWG diameters. It will cut the copper wire just as easily, so do not use it on the BMW (metric) wire.

Wow, this is awesome! Definitely following. I almost started going down the path of installing an NB ABS system until I saw this thread.

I scanned the whole thread and haven’t seen the answers to two questions I currently have. Hopefully you guys don’t mind teaching me a few things.

1. How are yaw sensors contributing to the ABS system? Intuitively, I would think that they’re for stability control, not antilock.

2. Is there an actual kit in the works for people like me who can’t fabricate? I see a lot of collaboration among shops and hints about a kit, but I didn’t see an actual announcement. But I may have missed it.

3. What is an “upright?” English isn’t my first language and I get confused when adjectives are used as nouns. I’m also not super experienced with car mechanic things.

4. What would you guys ballpark an all-in cost for this project?

Thanks!

Per 3DM Motorsport, you're more likely to experience "Ice Mode" without this sensor.

I'm not planning on manufacturing a kit. Maybe jpreston will. The BMW parts are all available off-the-shelf. The folks I've mentioned before will make a custom wiring harness for you. After that it's "only" a matter of brake line plumbing and mounting the sensors, neither of which are really conducive to a "kit" form.

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I took a middle road of buying the brain/pump and sensors in ready-to-go condition, doing the wiring myself using junkyard connectors, and buying new rear axles and front hubs. I'll tally it up later, but not including parts I screwed up, I would guess I'm into this for close to $1k.

BMW Acronyms
Teves MK60 Feature Descriptions

I should be doing any number of things for my employer, but I think it'd be more fun to post here.

The following is taken from what appears to be a BMW document, titled "E46 Traction and Stability Control Systems".

I'm posting it here because there are so many damn features in the Mk60 system that the acronyms become annoying.

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It's clear to me that I only want ABS and its sub-functions. The sub-functions are described thusly:

Regarding CBC, at first I was concerned that this might have a negative effect on trail-braking, but from reading this passage, it seems like CBC would only step in if the brakes were not already applied, the car was experiencing +0.6g of lateral force, and the driver then applied the brakes. I'm no track wizard, but I can't think of any time I would want to apply brakes at +0.6g lateral force in a turn. Seems like a "save the underwear" feature to me.

I think it's worth noting here that EBV does not substitute for static brake proportioning on the BMW. In the BMW master cylinder, there are two different sized pistons (to my knowledge). So the proportioning is done inside the master, before the pressure sensors. I've put included a brake proportioning valve placed before the pressure sensors for this reason.

Some other relevant gems from this document:
Having re-read this now as I was writing this post, I think I'm going to remove the wire I tied to ground for this pin, to ensure that the MK60 doesn't try and do any ASC/DSC functions. From my reading (not cited), I believe that without the steering angle sensor and without communication with the engine computer, it won't try those things, but I don't have anything in my hands to verify that.

Short version - you may not actually need a brake light switch, but it's probably a good idea to have it working. Note that the switch wiring pretty wonky (and something I messed up and need to fix). The wire for the brake lights should be grounded, unless the brakes are on. This seems like an odd choice of logic to me, but I don't design circuits for a living.

:eek4:

Engine Bay Plumbing

I'm done plumbing the system and actually have the car running and driving and stopping. I have not been able to really test the ABS function...

I chose to put everything on the driver's side, where the stock intake sat. In the "E46 Traction and Stability Control Systems" document, it says:
.
This seems like a fine reason to keep the run between the master and the hydraulic unit. This also reduces the number of tubes crossing over the transmission - I only used the existing stock lines.

The E46s I found in the junk yard mount the MK60 at an angle. Maybe it's a good way to angle the ports so there's always somewhere for air bubbles to travel upwards and out of the unit. I went ahead and mounted the unit at a similar angle.
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I mounted the BrakeQuip tees to a piece of bent aluminum to keep them from flopping all over the place. I placed the pressure sensors at the bottom of the tee so that air bubbles don't get trapped in the sensor. I'm hoping it also serves as a shield against heat from the header - apparently these sensors don't like excess heat. The Wilwood prop valve fits nicely underneath the master here.
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I mounted the OBD port I pulled off a junker near the hydraulic unit. It wasn't the greatest idea as the BMW procedure for bleeding the pressure requires you to both use the PC software and press the pedal. The cable I used wasn't long enough to reach, so I had to dig out an old USB extender. Not a big deal, but don't make this mistake.

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I've now lost the ability to organize thoughts into a cogent post. More later.

Initial Results (Anecdotal)

I freaking love this system.

I took it out at Thunderhill West for a track day with TrackTime (who I think ran a great day). It was six 20-minute sessions on the 2-mile track. I was in the Advanced group with a bunch of faster cars, so I had no one holding me back. I have stock 1.8 brakes with GLock R10 fronts and R8 rears. I did two sessions on older 205 RE-71Rs on 15x7s and the other four on brand new 225 RS4s on 15x9s. I didn't futz with the ABS module at all.

Observations:

• You can still lock up a wheel if you're completely ham-fisted in a braking zone.
• You can definitely feel the system working when you hit a bump under braking and you lose traction in an individual wheel.
• I did not feel the system fight me or do anything I wouldn't want it to do. There were a couple times where I turned the wheel while braking and it did not get confused or try and make me go straight. I don't mean to say I was trail-braking, I was just being stupid and turning in before I was really going slow enough to do so.
• I don't generally trail-brake, so I have no results to share on that.
• The feedback through the pedal was not disruptive. Yes, it'll do that ABS-pulse thing, but it only seems to do that when you've really working it.
• If you're not familiar with your car's braking capabilities, it might actually be a bit dangerous: your foot is all the way to the floor, your tires aren't locked and are perfectly silent, you're not slowing down as much as you thought you could...and you end up in the grass/wall/pond/parking-lot. You all know I'm a dumb-ass, so I'll admit that this happened to me in the first session after I threw on the new tires. I went into the dirt, no big deal. Lesson learned.
• You can spend a lot less mental effort in your braking zones. Get on the brakes and wait to turn in. I'm guessing this will, eventually, increase my repeatability for any given corner.

I didn't get my data capture set up for this event, but based on the fact I'm nowhere near as good a driver as most of you on here, I'm driving a non-turbo Miata on FM Foxes instead of the requisite Xidas, and my car setup is probably lacking, what data would you find helpful for me to capture the next time I'm out?

After hearing your observations, i'm beginning to wonder how much an improvement this system is over the NB2 ABS. Does anyone have any thoughts on this? The NB2 system is way easier to retrofit, cheaper, and if only marginally less performance, im not sure this is worth the $ and effort.

No Comparison, you will throw rocks at the NB2 system once you have driven both.

I've only driven the BMW system in my BMW, but I agree. For use on track it's far better than the NB2 system that I swapped into my Miata.

--Ian

Does anyone know of a solution to convert the active BMW sensor signal into a passive type? I've seen things to do the opposite but not for this. I have a Race Logic TC which uses passive sensors so I'm trying to find a way to use the BMW sensors with it. Otherwise I guess I'll have to go NB2 if I want to stick with the RLTC.

At a track day, looking for some input. I keep getting a 5E24 code, “Pressure Sensor 1/2 Not Plausible”. I clear it and it comes back the next session. Anyone have a clue on what to look at? Thanks in advance.

The seals didn't work great for the 47pin plug because you used the wrong MQS contacts. 1355556-1 is to be used without those seals.
The proper TE contact to accommodate the seal is part number 1241603-1
The TE part number for the seals are:
For 22awg wires 967067-2 (yellow color)
For 18-20awg wires 967067-1 (green color)
Blanking seal: 967056-1 (blue color)

The ABS pump has outputs for the 4 wheels (at least the MK60E5 one has) but the case should be the same with the MK60. The ABS unit grounds the output on every tooth pulse, so you use a pullup resistor to either 5V or 12V (or any other) to generate a square wave amplitude what your Race Logic TC expects to see

Thank you for that. I was just wondering the other day what is the correct connector for seals because I got the same thing and notice if they were too short. Question for you though, What is a good tool to crimp the seal for that size? I have several tools with the circular crimp on them for seals but they were all too big for this one.

Doug Wardell‘s harness as an option to get the analog outputs for wheel speeds from each of the four sensors.. You could use that to feed the RLTC I think since they are coming out of the harness as an analog signal

The proper crimper for these contacts is TE part number 539635-1 with die 539693-2. It's expensive though. I'll try find if there is still a third party one which can do the job.

Ok, here you go. A much more affordable crimper for occasional dealings with these contacts:
https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/pr...roducts_id/364

I assume this is what you ended up doing for the front/rear spindles? Im local to SJ, any chance I could pay you to do another set?

just to confirm. All the fittings are m10 x 1 inverted except the pump (m12 x 1 bubble)?

All the Miata stuff is M10 inverted flare. The BMW stuff is either M10 bubble flare or M12 bubble flare. That includes the pressure sensors.

Which m10 are bubble? I thought the pressure sensors screw into the BQ44 adapter?

I believe all four outputs from the ABS module are M10 bubble. The two inputs may be M12 bubble. That sounds right - I'm not in front of my car right now.

All the Miata stuff is M10 inverted flare.

Regarding the mill work - I'm afraid I've got too many projects going on right now to help you out. You should see the lack of progress on my K-swap!

I'm pretty sure there are 4 M12x1 Bubble flare and 2 M10x1 Bubble flare ports in the module, it's only the right hand front and rear outputs that are M10.
You also need to use long thread brake flare nuts in the module, the short ones run out of thread before the pipe seats, found this out the hard way.
The pressure sensors use an M12x1 inverted flare and yes the BQ44 adaptor is the right one for this.


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