Need a new diff, what are my options
#23
Turn input shaft until wheels rotate once, count how many turns the input needed to do that.
Pro: easy, fast.
Con: not totally accurate, can be hard to tell a 4.1 from a 4.3
Crack casing open, count teeth on crown, count teeth on pinion, divide crown by pinion
Pro: 100% accurate, also lets you confirm if it's an LSD while it's open
Con: you've got to pull the diff open to do it.
#28
.....and that assuming its from the US. All or nearly all NB's in Europe came with a 4.1 diff on 5 speeds and 3.6 or 3.9 for all 6-speeds. Afaik that's also true for the many JDM NB imports driving around in the UK. We have a very hard time hunting down 4.3 ratio 1.8 diffs here because the only source is a semi-rare JDM NA8 R-package equivalent.
#29
The only info I have is that its from a year 2000 JDM Miata.
If you call the 800 Mazda number, and give them a VIN they will tell you everything about that car. Ive been running all the local junkyard miata vins, so far everything has been auto, or 3.9. I asked the eBay seller for more info, maybe they have records of the Chassis Number that Japan uses to ID their cars.
If you call the 800 Mazda number, and give them a VIN they will tell you everything about that car. Ive been running all the local junkyard miata vins, so far everything has been auto, or 3.9. I asked the eBay seller for more info, maybe they have records of the Chassis Number that Japan uses to ID their cars.
#34
Should probably add.
If you're buying a Torsen, grab a T2.
Stronger since the helicals are mostly enclosed within a cast housing.
Compared to the T1 where they're held in with much less material, which can, and does, break.
(Not that i've ever broken one, but my diff builder showed me his box of busted T1s, and said he's never had a busted T2 come back)
If you're buying a Torsen, grab a T2.
Stronger since the helicals are mostly enclosed within a cast housing.
Compared to the T1 where they're held in with much less material, which can, and does, break.
(Not that i've ever broken one, but my diff builder showed me his box of busted T1s, and said he's never had a busted T2 come back)
#36
This guy seems to have many diffs: https://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/p...009992620.html
There's also this guy, but its a 4.10 https://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/p...009992450.html
You might just have to pay to play if you really want a 4.30
There's also this guy, but its a 4.10 https://chicago.craigslist.org/nch/p...009992450.html
You might just have to pay to play if you really want a 4.30
#37
I cant find a single 4.3. already looked over all the craiglist ads from my area, and surroundings. those two ads are from the same person and he wants $900 for the 4.1 swap
some dude in florida might have a 4.3 set for $1300 + shipping
ebay i see stuff go for $1100+300 shipping or not willing ton ship
some dude in florida might have a 4.3 set for $1300 + shipping
ebay i see stuff go for $1100+300 shipping or not willing ton ship
#40
$800 for a diff doesnt sound too crazy to me.
I paid $1100au (~$760usd) for my 4.1 T2 about 8 years ago. (granted, as a full unit ready to bolt it)
And that was here in Australia, where the 4.1 is dirt cheap since every NB1 came with them.
Any reason you really want a 4.3 instead of a 4.1?
it's only 5% shorter, so it's not going to be a night and day difference (hell, if you need the shorter gearing just get lower profile tyres for the little bit extra)
I paid $1100au (~$760usd) for my 4.1 T2 about 8 years ago. (granted, as a full unit ready to bolt it)
And that was here in Australia, where the 4.1 is dirt cheap since every NB1 came with them.
Any reason you really want a 4.3 instead of a 4.1?
it's only 5% shorter, so it's not going to be a night and day difference (hell, if you need the shorter gearing just get lower profile tyres for the little bit extra)