MiataOwner

iTrader: (1)

I cant find one. link me please. for under $300 im down to drop in a 1.6

MiataOwner

iTrader: (1)

I had a 4.3 and I liked how quick my miata was. I cant imagine it being any slower off the line. If I find a good deal on a 4.1 i'll think about it.

themonkeyman

https://www.miataturbo.net/miata-par...ilable-101474/

Turbomack

PM sent

MiataOwner

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the link.
A 1999 showed up to the junkyard today. subframe gone

MiataOwner

iTrader: (1)

Another thing I'm considering. I can buy a low mileage JDM RHD front, and rear subframe delivered for $999. I can then look for an LSD, or even buy an aftermarket unit if I feel like it. I have bad front bushings, deformed camber lock plate, leaky steering rack, torn boots, worn balljoints. Car has 177k, its 1993 with an engine from a 1999, so a BP4W properly swapped using the FM kit. What will I need to change to fit that subframe? Rear goes right in. Steering rack I'm told are different between NB and NA. Which one will I need? I'm running all 1.6 accessories. How about engine mounts? Driveshaft, doesnt come with the subframe. How many variations are there? Which one will I need? I have a 5 speed. Or can a driveshaft shop convert it?
And as far as dropping the subframe. I need tips. Ive dropped subframes before, solo. But not on a Miata. I have to pull the engine right? Can I leave it in the the bay held up by a hoist? I only have jackstands to work with. And probably no help. And its gonna be a tight fit in my garage. But this is a much needed refresh for my Miata.

hks_kansei

NA and NB subframes are a straight swap. you will need the matching steering rack for the subframe you use.
Not sure on the LHD and RHD difference though.


Mounts are same on all, except for the late NB which got mounts with an extra bit on the flange for another bolt.
But, even those blocks will fit an early mount, you just dont use the extra hole.



two versions, so far as fitment goes.
one for the 6" diff (the NA6 tiny diff)
and then a different tailshaft for all the rest of the NA/NB cars, which had the 7" diff.
you need the tailshaft that matches the diff you're using.


If you have a hoist you can drop the whole thing with the engine still attached to the subframe.

If you're working on stands, it will be far easier to jsut pull the engine all together.
Yeah, you can leave it hanging on the crane, but all you're saving yourself there is a few electrical plugs that you'll probably break anyway, and a couple of PPF bolts.
Plus then you've got to work around the engine being in the way.

I'd just pull it and save the hassle. Use the opportunity to throw some gaskets and stuff at the engine while it's out.



also, one last thing.
Is there any reason to bother swapping subframes?
Most of the stuff you mentioned (bushes, boots, etc) wont come attached to the subframes.
And most of that is much easier and cheaper to swap than the subframes anyway.

damir130

Steering rack mounts are different between LHD and RHD. You'll need to cut and weld the mounting tabs if you want to use the RHD subframe in an LHD config.

MiataOwner

iTrader: (1)

Dont forget that I will need to drain all the oil, coolant, deal with AC. My block is clean, and had a few gaskets already replaced.


Its a low mileage subframe from Japan, no rust, never seen salt. Has all the components still attached. Rotors, brakes, all bushings, and swaybars. Cars there are kept after much better than here. going with that subframe will be like taking 20 years off my car

Thanks. Is there a guide out there for this? I dont have access to a welder, but I can at least swap the rear subframe and worry about the front later.

themonkeyman

What you are proposing is significantly more work than just swapping a diff, all with questionable results at best.

MiataOwner

iTrader: (1)

I'm 1001% sure that swapping the rear subframe as one unit is a lot easier than trying to squeeze out the diff, and spend half a day removing the axles from the hubs. Ive swapped diffs before, its always easier to drop the subframe. I'm going to drop my subframe regardless of what diff I go with. It has surface rust, and some bad bushings that I will take care of while its down.

themonkeyman

You're just not making sense because all you wanna do is swap subframes. You don't wanna spend $1100 on a 4.3 Torsen swap setup, but you're chompin at the bit to buy a pair of used subframes for $1500, even though 1) you have no idea what gearing you'll get and 2) the front will be nearly useless to you because of being setup for a RHD NB. Not to mention it'll still be rolling on 20 year old used bushings. You keep turning down potential diffs we all mention cause they're not 4.30, but you have no idea what comes in that diff, or if its even a torsen, might be the Fuji.

????

Do what you wanna do man, you don't seem to wanna listen to anyone's advice here, despite asking for it.

MiataOwner

iTrader: (1)

Please don't think with your own wallet on this. Im not gonna drop $1100+ on JUST a diff and axles from a US seller with high mileage in unknown condition, and probably from the rust belt. For that much money I can have so much more. and yes, its more work, and more money. I am capable of both.
Front needs more work yes, but for now I can swap the rear. I ratio doesnt matter anway, that frame comes with an open diff, and I plan to swap it anyway. I can buy a 1.8 4.3 pumpkin right now for $500, So $1500 gets me a complete rear subframe (and front) in better condition than mine, upgrade to NB brakes all around, and a 1.8 4.3 diff all ready to swap in one day. That is a much better deal than the $1100 Toresn you mentioned. Or I can even buy Cusco diff, and Kia 4.77 set. That's another $2,000 I have no problem dropping right now on top of the $1000 + frame and supplies costs. So dont think with your money on this.

Rolling on 20 year old bushing as opposed to what Im rolling on now, but older, and 4x the mileage....

????

Turbomack

Pretty sure we are all getting hustled. OP had only 2 posts when he started this thread. I made the PM offer which he quickly counter-offered. I accepted the counter offer on Wednesday with no more comm from the OP yet he keeps this thread with a bunch of nonsense.

BTW: OP, I would have delivered and just given you the subframes in addition to the whole diff for the money we agreed to. Go pound sand.

MiataOwner

iTrader: (1)

I replied to your PM. As you can see by my posting here, I'm still researching my options.

I think that listing prices is making everyone here think hostile. Lets forget that and just break down what I want to do.
-Buy a complete subframe
-Buy a desired differential
-Install diff into subframe, and spruce things up
-Swap subframes
-Bam! rear end is done, and the car is drivable.

Front subframe remains
-Buy engine hoist
-Remove engine
-Drop subframe
-Weld new rack mounts
-Install new rack, maybe depower or go manual
-Put everything back together

More work, and for another time.
Am I omitting a critical step?

fmcokc

MiataOwner, I've got a 4.3 T2 I just pulled from a car I was scrapping that I do not need. I would sell it and the axles for $500 but I really don't want to mess with shipping it.

I've also got spare subframes and all the control arms, steering racks, etc that you could ever want.

MiataOwner

iTrader: (1)

We can meet halfway if you're up for a drive.
can you send me some pics and more info on the subframe you have. year, mileage.

Thanks!