cueball1

iTrader: (13)

I had the same wear pattern pre-turbo with a different shock/spring set up at 1" taller ride height. That was on 205/50 Exsta SPT's on a 7" rim. I don't think it's a lack of body roll. I'm also not on the stops. The Tein RA's are short body monotube race shocks and I'm only 1/3" lower than the recommended ride height on them.

I'm guessing it's the eccentrics. It's just strange it's such a distinct angle on the very inside. No feathering, no pulling, no odd noises. I'll pull one today and see what it looks like. I've got a new set, just have been too lazy to install them. Any idea what the wear on the bolt or washer looks like when these are shot?

It is a real shame to waste the rest of the tread. I've got 20K miles on these tires. If it wasn't for the inside wear I'd get another 10-15 easy. Gives you some idea how little fun my commute is. RS-2's don't seem to last that long for most people. Having the r-comps for the track really pays off in your street tire wear.

wayne_curr

iTrader: (8)

Holy crap, 20k?! Its going to be interesting to see how much longer i've got in my rs2s!

I assume you run a different tire in the winter as well?

cueball1

iTrader: (13)

I've got some studless snows on stockers. Only run them with the threat of snow/ice.

cjernigan

iTrader: (13)

Why not dismount and rotate the tires so that you can wear the other edge down just as much. Left to right, right to left. You'll obviously be changing wheels but if you do it now before they're completely worn you could get that 10k you wanted. Specially for a job commute.

magnamx-5

iTrader: (7)

check your balljoints dude just in case. I've seen loose setups cause this.

cueball1

iTrader: (13)

I'd do that in a heartbeat but they are a directional tire. In a sunny state I'd do it anyway but with NW rain I'm afraid they wouldn't shed water correctly run backwards.

Magna, thanks for another part suggestion.

I bought Soflaricks control arms. Urethane bushings and newish ball joints. I've picked up new eccentric bolts to use when I install the arms. Sounds like I have all the potential culprits covered now. Thanks for all the input.

Wish I'd gotten on this earlier when I could have saved some tire. I'd get another 6-10 months out of these if not for the inside wear. If the cause gets eliminated it shouldn't be wearing the inside anymore. Maybe after swapping out the control arms I'll just run them till the insides cord. Nothing better than a blowout on the freeway with no spare in the trunk!

Graeter

I didn`t read through the thread, but toe is what causes the tire wear generally speaking.

On my wrx I ran -3.2 up front and -1.2 in the rear. I had 0.00 toe all around. I have normal tire wear. The front tire wear on the inside was slightly, and I mean very slightly more worn than the outside. Its all about a solid alignment and good bushings to not have play!

EDIT: Also this was with 255 kuhmo XSs all around

Doppelgänger

iTrader: (12)

You 'tard.

What he said, albeit in a slight more complicated way, is to dismount all the tires then put the pass side tires on the drivers side and the drivers side tires onto the pass side. It's not that hard a concept to understand Often called "flipping tires".

Or if you want another fun way to say it, take each tire and dismount and remount it the "wrong" way and put the wheel on the other side of the car... lol

IMHO, I've run tires "the wrong way" in the rain and didn't notice any damn difference.

cueball1

iTrader: (13)

Yep. That's me on the right. Wait. Is that my right or yours? No. Hmmm.... Der der der...




I'm gonna go sit in the corner and beat my head with a spoon now...

turotufas

iTrader: (7)

I didn't see any abnormalities when I first viewed this. Now I see it after I read the top haha. Toe-out might help a lot. 20k! My tires went through secondary rubber and showed belts at 5k, I need an alignment!