take the rear swaybar off, or put on a looser bar like I told you a few posts ago.

 

lol at still using a rear bar.

 

Sell me a 3.63 set for cheap.

 

At the last 3 autoX's I did, I diconnected the rear sway and it didn't make a difference, I think it's really a lack of droop from the Ohlons that is pulling enough weight off the inside wheel to allow it to spin/lock under trail braking. Like I said, I tried raising the ride height to get more dropp, but it didn't work...this is how I get to the idea of trying to really plant the rear. If this doesn't work, I'm selling the car

 

Dopplegangbang: It's your diff. I too, was having inside wheel spin in hard cornering on the track with my torsen and that was with 120whp. It didn't matter which direction I turned.

I resolved my non-stop wheel spin issues by swapping to a Cusco RS clutch type LSD.

Gary at trackdog has been having torsen wheelspin issues for a couple of years. He's swapped/removed sway bars and played with settings and ultimately ended up keeping the rear bar because he like the handling with the rear bar. Driving style and car feel obviously play a big factor, but a real diff makes a huge difference.

i could elaborate more and show video, but emilio and I know what's up.

 

I guess I'll call Peloquin tomorrow.

 

i have a s2k torsen ready to ship if anyone wants one. (ap1) great condition
$250 plus shipping

sorry not trying to threadjack. this is a reply to the op really, but anyone if he's not interested.

 

I agree, my MSM acted nothing like my 95 with a torsen, the MSM would chatter when leaving stop light's and making a right turn under accel.

The brakes, manifold, torsen problems are all setup and driver specific. If your not having the problem then forget about it. By my calculations this board is costing you close to 1k-2k a month...ouch

 

How easy is the RS to modulate when applying throttle? 1.5 way? 2 way? I've heard of them having some understeer issues...but I guess that can be neutralized with a little different driving style.

 

That's the first thing that came to my mind, too.

Also try less rebound damping.

 

because what I want to do is spend $1100 on a differential and then have to alter my driving style due to an undesirable characteristic.

I've driven an OS Giken - it's quite impressive. It doesn't really feel like anything particularly special, except when I come out of a tight 3rd gear corner and stick 300wtq to the ground with absolutely no drama at all.

 

Your not going to eliminate the wheel spin with sway bar/shock adjustments.
some of these guys have been telling you the Torsen,any Torsen, has it's limits.
With sticky tires this is going to happen no matter what.
This is why Matt Andrews, Emilio , Savington , and all the track guys on real tires are using a clutch type diff.
Being able to put the power down and get out of the hole is not going to happen with a torsen. Besides , you will love your car again once you add a clutch type. It doesn't need to be the OS. But I'm sure You won't want anything less.

 

To be fair, the Torsen is a great diff up to about 200whp. The OSG is faster (1+ second laptime drop in a 135whp pseudo-EP car going from a Torsen), but the Torsen won't noticeably hold you back.

Get into the 250tq range, and it'll be pretty apparent on tighter corners that you've got wheelspin issues.

I think Emilio has a 3.63 OS Giken for sale.