he'll do alright ladies

I am very much satisfied with my KW v1's. These are around 850$, you can get the sister company ST coilovers for 100$ less which are essentially the same apart from shock material.
Add to that an 8 inch wheel and you'll have a very nicely balanced car.
Yet to take a ride on ohlins/xida so can't compare to higher level.

KW's are nice, but again i've seen nothing on them. I know they're good suspension but seems they're overlooked. As for wheels I just ordered 15x7 +35 RPF1's (for $650 brand new, take that cheap asses). I already have 205/50/15's and I don't like the 205 on an 8. Sidewall too vertical for me.
Powertrix coilovers are another one of those hidden away things and someone just posted a set for $750 in california. shit.

The bump stop is to keep your tire from jamming into your car, first and foremost. More travel because extended hats = re-evaluate your bumpstop length to keep yourself from having a bad time.

Lol, like a pack of hyenahs. Every once and a while, we need a post like this just to remind us how society really is.

I'm assuming you mean bump travel, not bump stop, based on context. Extended top hats don't move the whole assembly up (ok, about a half inch compared to OEM mounts). The spring is still resting against the mount, but the shock body is now allowed to travel up into the top hat (1" or 1.5" for ISC top hats), which increases bump travel and reduces droop travel. This does necessitate some bump stop tuning. In my case I bought used koni sports with ground controls and ISC top hats many years ago and the rears had so much bump travel that the UCA could hit the tub. Pointless and robbing droop travel. PO had no idea what they were doing and I didn't know enough to know the difference. Don't be like PO. Don't be like me circa 2012.

I see what you're saying. I'm visualizing it and it's keeping the spring compressed while allowing the extra length of the rod to stick up through which means more travel of the actual shock and less bump stop riding (esp when lowered).

a post to remind you that people still want to learn about these cars 25 years later? or that people don't necessarily want to DIY their entire suspension setup? I built my computer, did my research, sometimes the prebuilts are just more value when you consider pricing and availability... So I asked about coilovers that are seen most often online and are readily available.

but any words on the Powertrix coilovers? FWIW carpassionchannel runs them on his car.

he's a n00b just like you, just a little bit less so, and makes entertaining videos from time to time.

that man singlehandedly pulled a transmission with 0 power tools
while I had my dad, a lift, air tools, and oxy acetelene torch and barely got my midpipe-header off. all 3 bolts broke. So i'm running an ebay header. yolo. fit like dick had to modify the hell out of it and i think it leaks one place, but fuck it. it's working. so he is much greater than a n00b.

do it. his style is really informative so n00bs like me can follow along while in the garage and not fuck it up, that's why i like him.

I barely qualify as a shadetree mechanic and swapped a transmission and later a motor in my driveway with hand tools. It's not rocket surgery.

I've done the clutch on my fwd car. no subframe dropping this time. other than that it was pretty much the same. I more or less watched it before hand to know where the tougher bolts are and to find out what the fuck was up with the starter and brackets and there's a bolt and nut on one of them and yeah. the quirks and specifics.

Your SO will not like the ride on Bilsteins + 550/375

IMO, the price difference between the custom setup and a prebuilt set is negligible. Once you get into adding on top hats and bump stops, I'll be closer to $1000 which I can get the 9k/7k Powertrix coilovers. I did learn a lot about suspension and building my own, but unless I'm going full tryhard mode, I'd rather just get something that bolts on and doesn't require my dumbass to assemble it correctly. 9k/7k is roughly 500/390 which is a little softer in the front and a little stiffer in the rear. I think it'll work fine for my use. I could also just spec BC's to that and be happy as a local who tracks his BC BR NB says they're a bit stiff for street use (dd/getting around).

500/390 is god awful and tells you all you need to know about those coilovers. They're trash. If you want to run in the neighborhood of 500-600lbs comfortably without spending a fortune then get Xida or Fox.

xida and fox ARE a fortune... Xida GS is 1700 which is $700 more than by bilstein build (est). I'm only looking to spend around $1k. Seems building is the only "acceptable" way here, everything else is heathen level... The other main issue is top hats on these coils. I never thought about which ones actually take that into consideration and adjust accordingly, so, do any? Most common complaint of shit ride quality is because people are slammed assholes and ride around on bump stops. I don't want to do that. BC's are holding up fine on the local's car, so I might just end up custom spring rate on BC's (9k/7k / 500/400)

but do a quick google search for "miata coilovers Xk/Yk" and literally a new coilover brand you never heard of comes up. did more research, 450/300 looks about right for a comfortable streetcar with little autox. So That looks like 8k/6k to me. Fortune Auto 500 series comes 8k/6k default. and they have rear top hats that are extended.

You do realized that all the adjustable coilovers in the sub $1200 market are all BC with just different color shocks, stickers, and springs.

You're going backwards. Benjamin Button Syndrome. It's not a good thing.


550/350 on NB Bilstein Sports is creamy.

I did a trans swap on jackstands without power tools mere weeks ago, i just didn't expect anyone to jerk me off over it.