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Thinking about switching back to an act puck disk after the last trackday

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Old Dec 15, 2010 | 05:31 PM
  #21  
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Theres an existing OEM hole there already, just use that as a pilot.

It works to some degree otherwise i wouldn't suggest it
Old Jan 9, 2011 | 11:41 AM
  #22  
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Well it looks like it starts slipping towards the end of the day still. :\

I'll have to add a clutch job to the growing list of projects on the table.
Old Jan 10, 2011 | 05:34 PM
  #23  
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Anyone have a recommendation on which 4/6 puck to get and cheapest source? I would like to reuse the FM pressure plate.

I'll probably get an act 6 puck unsprung through summit if no one has any opinions.




I'd love the 949 one, but I'm not going to spend 1k+ on the clutch.
Old Jan 10, 2011 | 05:41 PM
  #24  
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Carolina Clutch? I got my sprung ACT 6puck from there.
http://www.carolinaclutch.com

I think y8s recommended them and the guy was nice and well priced and shipped fast.
Old Jan 10, 2011 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
Carolina Clutch? I got my sprung ACT 6puck from there.
http://www.carolinaclutch.com

I think y8s recommended them and the guy was nice and well priced and shipped fast.
+1 Great price and fast shipping ACT 6-puck, XT pp feels great. I adjusted the pedal using the FM guidelines.
Old Jan 11, 2011 | 01:19 PM
  #26  
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After driving them both on the track I prefer the feel of a pucked clutch for track use. They are a little difficult in 1st and R if your not paying attention but easily overcomed if your a man. I do agree that they are harder on the drivetrain but if you use a little mechanical empithy it shouldn't be a problem. For quick snap shifts a 9lbs fly wheel from gripforce let the revs drop fast enough that it didn't feel like I was shocking the trans.
Old Jan 15, 2011 | 12:22 PM
  #27  
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So did you eventually get the Xtreme 6 puck sprung clutch or the Heavy Duty?

I read and looked up some prices. Don't mind the universal pictures but the serial numbers check out.

almost 50 bucks cheaper compared to Gomiata same serial number

http://www.carolinaclutch.com/ShowIt...tch%20Kit.aspx

http://www.gomiata.com/actmi6padrac1.html

Xtreme ACT clutch 6 puck sprung picture not shown but serial number clears


Cheap
http://www.autopartsdealer.com/act_x..._content=rank1

http://www.jdmhub.com/index.php?rout...1131_1132_1443
Old Jan 16, 2011 | 01:15 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by BenR
Anyone have a recommendation on which 4/6 puck to get and cheapest source? I would like to reuse the FM pressure plate.

I'll probably get an act 6 puck unsprung through summit if no one has any opinions.




I'd love the 949 one, but I'm not going to spend 1k+ on the clutch.
Clutch and flywheel.
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Old Jan 16, 2011 | 02:35 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by emilio700
Clutch and flywheel.
+1. An extra $300 to shave fourteen pounds of rotating mass from the drivetrain sounds like money well spent to me.
Old Jan 16, 2011 | 10:39 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by emilio700
Clutch and flywheel.
By the time you put together a clutch disc, plate, flywheel, and throw-out, you're $200-300 away from video-game style driving glory. People that haven't driven it, don't understand...it rev's like a damn SR-3. I finally drove John's car on the track with the clutch and I grinned the entire time. My tax return is supposed to go on student loans..right? God damn you 949 Racing.

Originally Posted by Savington
+1. An extra $300 to shave fourteen pounds of rotating mass from the drivetrain sounds like money well spent to me.
I remember grabbing John's single disc and comparing it to the one that came out of his car, and the suspended disbelief that followed.
Old Jan 16, 2011 | 11:32 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Savington
+1. An extra $300 to shave fourteen pounds of rotating mass from the drivetrain sounds like money well spent to me.
Why is it ok to take mass off the rear of the crankshaft but not the front via a lightweight pully?

Is there some "happy rotating mass on the end of the crankshaft threshold"??
Old Jan 16, 2011 | 11:37 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
Why is it ok to take mass off the rear of the crankshaft but not the front via a lightweight pully?

Is there some "happy rotating mass on the end of the crankshaft threshold"??
How much does the pulley on the front weigh?
Old Jan 16, 2011 | 11:49 AM
  #33  
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Less than 9lbs or whatever a lightweight flywheel weighs. 3lbs?
Old Jan 16, 2011 | 12:14 PM
  #34  
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I'll sell my old twin plate setup to you cheap. needs new disks and floaters. total weight is like 16 lbs including the flywheel.
Old Jan 16, 2011 | 01:49 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
Why is it ok to take mass off the rear of the crankshaft but not the front via a lightweight pully?

Is there some "happy rotating mass on the end of the crankshaft threshold"??
Because the pulley dampens vibration and a single-mass flywheel (basically) doesn't. It's fine to put a lightweight pulley on, as long as it sufficiently dampens the vibration coming from the motor. It's not the weight loss that causes issues from LW pulleys, it's the fact that you've removed the harmonic damper.
Old Jan 16, 2011 | 02:22 PM
  #36  
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So. Why not have a dampened flywheel?

I mean, other than material/construction issues, this would be great right?
Old Jan 16, 2011 | 02:29 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by Faeflora
So. Why not have a dampened flywheel?

I mean, other than material/construction issues, this would be great right?
How much do you think that would weigh?

I'll give you a hint: The 4th gen Toyota Supra has a dual-mass dampened flywheel (the Getrag is really noisy without it, apparently). It weighs 34lbs.
Old Jan 16, 2011 | 08:02 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Savington
How much do you think that would weigh?

I'll give you a hint: The 4th gen Toyota Supra has a dual-mass dampened flywheel (the Getrag is really noisy without it, apparently). It weighs 34lbs.
LG takes the stock 63lb ZR1 clutch down to 18lb.
Old Jan 18, 2011 | 04:24 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Savington
+1. An extra $300 to shave fourteen pounds of rotating mass from the drivetrain sounds like money well spent to me.


From what I'm thinking it would be an extra $800+ unless someone bought my current flywheel, pp, and disk for a premium.


I'd love the 949 setup, and I know it's the best way to go. At this point I'd rather get something at a lower cost that works, and spend that cash on lower hanging fruit like an OS Giken diff, or real shocks/springs.
Old Jan 18, 2011 | 04:42 PM
  #40  
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You want to sell the twin disk? How come? I might be interested but I just want to hear from you your pros and cons about it.



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