Was that addressed to me?

While it works very well for a street car, it's just not up to a 20 mile commute with stop and go traffic. Service life in real-world daily driver use is between 18 and 24 months. The reason is slippage and heat. The parts dont wear out, they warp over time.

In a track/race car, the clutch has a much lower slip-to-rest ratio and it gets time to cool down. And the number of times you are starting from a stop when racing is pretty low compared to in traffic.

I suppose I could have vented my bell housing (and now that I think about it, I wish I had tried that) to get more life but I didn't.

Pros: bragging rights, holding nearly 400hp, near stock pedal feel, easy driveability.

Cons: I don't have a garage anymore so changing it every 2 years gets to be a bit of a challenge (especially since my driveway is dirt). That's really it.

 

Thanks for the input. I do have a dd and though I don't see much stop and go, the idea to fix and swap parts every couple years is a turn off like you said. I will be autocrossing on weekends whenever there is a track setup locally. I also do not own a garage and see why it's an inconvenience. I did plan on getting a street clutch and lightened flywheel what rounded around 800 and thought that if I saved an extra couple hundred for the twin disk. But after your experience I appreciate you solidifying my decision.

 

Note that Y8s is a home built twin based on Tilton hardware and using I believe, .150" thick discs. The 949 Racing twin is not a Tilton and uses custom made .250 thick disc (same thickness as OEM). Our twin organic will last a very long time, probably forever for most users.

 

i have the rally clutch which uses .280 thick disks. as i said, they didn't wear out, the floaters warped.

 

Everything was dry inside and did not see any signs of contamination. but I did see lots of evidence of over heating and slipping.

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I switched back to a 4 puck and seems to be good, but haven't had a good chance to thrash it at the track yet.

 

With localized heat spots on the pressure plate and I think the friction plate, I would suspect something is/was bent or is/was mounted incorrectly (not flat).

 

I torqued to the proper torque, using the proper method. But that could have been a possibility. The other side of the disk does not have that same pattern. You can see the discolorations on the disk from heat.

 

I just bought a spec 3 clutch with a fidanza flywheel. Its going in the beginning of next week. I also purchased ss clutch race lines from 949 today. All I need to do is buy replacement seals and such for the rest of the job.

 

only looks like half the material was grabbing.

 

My Exedy Stage 1 started slipping after slightly less than 12 months of use. Yesterday I ordered the ACT XT/6 puck sprung setup to replace it. I've never had a puck style disc before so its going to be interesting to try it out.

 

If your not paying attention, it will make you look like a kid that is just learning to drive a stick when pulling away from a stop light.

 

You'll quickly get used to it. But it takes me care when starting from a stop like djp suggests. I could drive mine like a stock disc, but I got tired of the effort required when DDing the car, so I went back to a street disc.

 

Thanks for the input guys. The only time I usually have serious stop and go traffic is coming home when I'm working 7-3:30 on a weekday which is usually only 6-8 times per month.

 

I like mine a lot