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Old 07-19-2016, 01:55 PM   #1
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Default Tochigi Fuji Diff - Worth $200?

I have the opportunity to purchase a TF diff from a 2003, along with axles, no housing included, for $200 shipped. Is it worth the money to dink around with? Or will the cone tab break too quickly for me to have fun? It's an 81k mile diff, so I wonder if it's a "Well it's lasted this long, so it must be okay for a while" or a "81k? That's gonna blow soon" kind of thing. Thanks.
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Old 07-19-2016, 01:59 PM   #2
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considering it will cost like 60 to ship, yeah that's a deal if it's not broken already
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:01 PM   #3
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considering it will cost like 60 to ship, yeah that's a deal if it's not broken already
I'm on the other side of the state, but I do suppose those axles will make for a tough ship. Do you know where he might look to find the tab that's typically broken? Where it's broken off of?
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:14 PM   #4
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I have the diff unit along with the ring and pinion just sitting in a box outside. if you want it, come get it. lol
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:18 PM   #5
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I have the diff unit along with the ring and pinion just sitting in a box outside. if you want it, come get it. lol
Really? It's that bad? Or is yours shot?
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:25 PM   #6
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I think I'd be inclined to spend the extra $300 and get a Torsen just so I didn't have to do the entire job over again when the T-F inevitably breaks :P
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:28 PM   #7
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I think I'd be inclined to spend the extra $300 and get a Torsen just so I didn't have to do the entire job over again when the T-F inevitably breaks :P
The only reason I'm considering it is because I'm on a highschooler summer job budget, but if the Torsen is the way to go, that's what I'll do.
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:33 PM   #8
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If you are ultra-budget critical, the Rx7 diff is what I'd look at. They can be found in junkyards for around the same price as the T-F, and while they aren't quite as good, they won't break eventually. I bought an Rx7 diff with my food money in college, and it worked fairly well for the price. I ended up trading it to someone for a Torsen eventually, though.

Alternatively, try to find someone with a loose Torsen unit which is less valuable than a unit that's already set in a pumpkin with gears.

The T-F is like putting $200 on the shelf above your fireplace and leaving the window open on a breezy evening. The cash is on the shelf right now, but it's going to go in the fire at some point.
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:34 PM   #9
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It was a spare diff that I used the housing for an OSGiken and 3.63 gears. I never ran it. I wouldn't run it.

When do you NEED a torsen by? I will have a whole drop and swap subframe/arms/4.1 torsen diff available in the coming weeks. Just provide your own 1.8 Driveshaft if you don't already have one.
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:47 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by Savington View Post
If you are ultra-budget critical, the Rx7 diff is what I'd look at. They can be found in junkyards for around the same price as the T-F, and while they aren't quite as good, they won't break eventually. I bought an Rx7 diff with my food money in college, and it worked fairly well for the price. I ended up trading it to someone for a Torsen eventually, though.

Alternatively, try to find someone with a loose Torsen unit which is less valuable than a unit that's already set in a pumpkin with gears.

The T-F is like putting $200 on the shelf above your fireplace and leaving the window open on a breezy evening. The cash is on the shelf right now, but it's going to go in the fire at some point.
Interesting, I'll look into that. Thank you.

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It was a spare diff that I used the housing for an OSGiken and 3.63 gears. I never ran it. I wouldn't run it.

When do you NEED a torsen by? I will have a whole drop and swap subframe/arms/4.1 torsen diff available in the coming weeks. Just provide your own 1.8 Driveshaft if you don't already have one.
My open 1.6 has been on turbo for 1k easy miles strong, and I have a backup 1.6 VLSD for when the open goes. So I don't need it right now. Do you have an estimated price point?
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Old 07-19-2016, 02:58 PM   #11
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Probably going rate for the diff, but you can decide what you want to do with the subframe, control arms, knuckles, axles if you don't want to keep them. Where are you located.
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Old 07-19-2016, 03:46 PM   #12
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Probably going rate for the diff, but you can decide what you want to do with the subframe, control arms, knuckles, axles if you don't want to keep them. Where are you located.
I'm up in Michigan.
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Old 07-19-2016, 03:54 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Savington View Post
The T-F is like putting $200 on the shelf above your fireplace and leaving the window open on a breezy evening. The cash is on the shelf right now, but it's going to go in the fire at some point.
I like this analogy.
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Old 07-19-2016, 04:27 PM   #14
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What's the going rate on OBX torsen diffs these days?

Edit: Holy ****, $360 and up on ebay.
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Old 07-19-2016, 05:34 PM   #15
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It would depend on what you're planning on doing with it. If you're driving on the street and some AutoX in an NA car, it's better than an open diff.

I had a TF with a 4.3 that I AutoX'd and did track days for 2 or 3 years. I only pulled out 1 small tab. It continued to work. The TF is lighter than a Torsen.
... but, the Torsen will last longer and it puts down more power to the wheel with traction. 2.5 to 1 rather than the TFs 2 to 1.
I found a used Torsen w/ a 4.3 and put it in.
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Old 07-19-2016, 05:47 PM   #16
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It would depend on what you're planning on doing with it. If you're driving on the street and some AutoX in an NA car, it's better than an open diff.

I had a TF with a 4.3 that I AutoX'd and did track days for 2 or 3 years. I only pulled out 1 small tab. It continued to work. The TF is lighter than a Torsen.
... but, the Torsen will last longer and it puts down more power to the wheel with traction. 2.5 to 1 rather than the TFs 2 to 1.
I found a used Torsen w/ a 4.3 and put it in.
I believe I'll just wait for a Torsen then. I'm FI, pushing 160, hopefully 200 soon. No sense in buying a band aid.
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