Tochigi Fuji Diff - Worth $200?
I have the opportunity to purchase a TF diff from a 2003, along with axles, no housing included, for $200 shipped. Is it worth the money to dink around with? Or will the cone tab break too quickly for me to have fun? It's an 81k mile diff, so I wonder if it's a "Well it's lasted this long, so it must be okay for a while" or a "81k? That's gonna blow soon" kind of thing. Thanks.
Last edited by Bodhimeister; Jul 19, 2016 at 02:09 PM.
I'm on the other side of the state, but I do suppose those axles will make for a tough ship. Do you know where he might look to find the tab that's typically broken? Where it's broken off of?
The only reason I'm considering it is because I'm on a highschooler summer job budget, but if the Torsen is the way to go, that's what I'll do.
If you are ultra-budget critical, the Rx7 diff is what I'd look at. They can be found in junkyards for around the same price as the T-F, and while they aren't quite as good, they won't break eventually. I bought an Rx7 diff with my food money in college, and it worked fairly well for the price. I ended up trading it to someone for a Torsen eventually, though.
Alternatively, try to find someone with a loose Torsen unit which is less valuable than a unit that's already set in a pumpkin with gears.
The T-F is like putting $200 on the shelf above your fireplace and leaving the window open on a breezy evening. The cash is on the shelf right now, but it's going to go in the fire at some point.
Alternatively, try to find someone with a loose Torsen unit which is less valuable than a unit that's already set in a pumpkin with gears.
The T-F is like putting $200 on the shelf above your fireplace and leaving the window open on a breezy evening. The cash is on the shelf right now, but it's going to go in the fire at some point.
It was a spare diff that I used the housing for an OSGiken and 3.63 gears. I never ran it. I wouldn't run it.
When do you NEED a torsen by? I will have a whole drop and swap subframe/arms/4.1 torsen diff available in the coming weeks. Just provide your own 1.8 Driveshaft if you don't already have one.
When do you NEED a torsen by? I will have a whole drop and swap subframe/arms/4.1 torsen diff available in the coming weeks. Just provide your own 1.8 Driveshaft if you don't already have one.
If you are ultra-budget critical, the Rx7 diff is what I'd look at. They can be found in junkyards for around the same price as the T-F, and while they aren't quite as good, they won't break eventually. I bought an Rx7 diff with my food money in college, and it worked fairly well for the price. I ended up trading it to someone for a Torsen eventually, though.
Alternatively, try to find someone with a loose Torsen unit which is less valuable than a unit that's already set in a pumpkin with gears.
The T-F is like putting $200 on the shelf above your fireplace and leaving the window open on a breezy evening. The cash is on the shelf right now, but it's going to go in the fire at some point.
Alternatively, try to find someone with a loose Torsen unit which is less valuable than a unit that's already set in a pumpkin with gears.
The T-F is like putting $200 on the shelf above your fireplace and leaving the window open on a breezy evening. The cash is on the shelf right now, but it's going to go in the fire at some point.
It was a spare diff that I used the housing for an OSGiken and 3.63 gears. I never ran it. I wouldn't run it.
When do you NEED a torsen by? I will have a whole drop and swap subframe/arms/4.1 torsen diff available in the coming weeks. Just provide your own 1.8 Driveshaft if you don't already have one.
When do you NEED a torsen by? I will have a whole drop and swap subframe/arms/4.1 torsen diff available in the coming weeks. Just provide your own 1.8 Driveshaft if you don't already have one.
Probably going rate for the diff, but you can decide what you want to do with the subframe, control arms, knuckles, axles if you don't want to keep them. Where are you located.
It would depend on what you're planning on doing with it. If you're driving on the street and some AutoX in an NA car, it's better than an open diff.
I had a TF with a 4.3 that I AutoX'd and did track days for 2 or 3 years. I only pulled out 1 small tab. It continued to work. The TF is lighter than a Torsen.
... but, the Torsen will last longer and it puts down more power to the wheel with traction. 2.5 to 1 rather than the TFs 2 to 1.
I found a used Torsen w/ a 4.3 and put it in.
I had a TF with a 4.3 that I AutoX'd and did track days for 2 or 3 years. I only pulled out 1 small tab. It continued to work. The TF is lighter than a Torsen.
... but, the Torsen will last longer and it puts down more power to the wheel with traction. 2.5 to 1 rather than the TFs 2 to 1.
I found a used Torsen w/ a 4.3 and put it in.
It would depend on what you're planning on doing with it. If you're driving on the street and some AutoX in an NA car, it's better than an open diff.
I had a TF with a 4.3 that I AutoX'd and did track days for 2 or 3 years. I only pulled out 1 small tab. It continued to work. The TF is lighter than a Torsen.
... but, the Torsen will last longer and it puts down more power to the wheel with traction. 2.5 to 1 rather than the TFs 2 to 1.
I found a used Torsen w/ a 4.3 and put it in.
I had a TF with a 4.3 that I AutoX'd and did track days for 2 or 3 years. I only pulled out 1 small tab. It continued to work. The TF is lighter than a Torsen.
... but, the Torsen will last longer and it puts down more power to the wheel with traction. 2.5 to 1 rather than the TFs 2 to 1.
I found a used Torsen w/ a 4.3 and put it in.
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