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Old 12-21-2008, 06:37 PM   #1
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Default transmission jack

I am having one hell of a time getting the bell housing back on the engine after doing clutch. Project is now on hold until after xmas. Maybe Im just weak or frustrated but I could not get under the transmission well enough to bench it in position, tranny kept rolling off jacks to. Ive never used a transmission jack, are the type you rent small enouigh to use with the car on jack stands? Will it help. Miserable day, flywheel had a stripped thread for the pressure plate, luckily tap fixed that. Like am ******* I forgot to take the bolts out of the turret where i had out them when i took shifter out. Luckily managed to fish them out of the turret. Ive read all the clutch threads and Sams really has helped, but if anyone has any tips to get the tranny back on Id appreciate it
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Old 12-21-2008, 06:46 PM   #2
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did you try using a floor jack to help with lifting the trans?
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Old 12-21-2008, 06:55 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by cardriverx View Post
did you try using a floor jack to help with lifting the trans?
Yeah kept rolling off. But I was at the end of my patience. Time for a fresh start. But if a tranny jack wil help I would be all over it
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:07 PM   #4
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I would suggest getting a tranny jack. I was having similar problems the first time I changed a clutch. Went to harbor freight and spent 40$ on teh tranny jack. It was worth every penny. That and knowing what tools to use where have made it so I went from taking 18 hours the first clutch job down to 2 hours with Scott helping.
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:16 PM   #5
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I would suggest getting a tranny jack. I was having similar problems the first time I changed a clutch. Went to harbor freight and spent 40$ on teh tranny jack. It was worth every penny. That and knowing what tools to use where have made it so I went from taking 18 hours the first clutch job down to 2 hours with Scott helping.
Are you talking about the adapter for a floor jack they sell? thats 42 bucks. If it works Ill be all over it

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:35 PM   #6
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i use this type:



uses a socket or impact wrench to lift
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Old 12-21-2008, 07:54 PM   #7
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i use this type:



uses a socket or impact wrench to lift
man 80 bucks. The real bitch is when you dont really work on the car a lot like I hope this is the last clutch i ever do, you end up wondering why you didnt pay a mechanic in the first place. But they always end up ******* me up worse than when they started. But if I start adding up the tab for tap and die sets ******* flyweheel getting resurfaced tools and the price of a pissed off wife bitching atg the grease on me, **** I dont blame mechanics for charging what they do.
Awwwwww **** it, re adrress Dec 27
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Old 12-21-2008, 08:12 PM   #8
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roll the trans on its side, then roll it on to your chest and push it up.
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Old 12-21-2008, 08:49 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bryantaylor View Post
roll the trans on its side, then roll it on to your chest and push it up.
it works but it's a pain in the *** if you don't get the car high enough, if i were to do that again i'd go buy a set of 12ton jack stands. otherwise your elbows will hate you because you can't extend your arms.
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Old 12-21-2008, 11:24 PM   #10
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I did mine solo without jacks. I ran a rope through the shifter hole in the floorboard and used it to support the back of the trans while I lifted the front (bell housing) into place. I aligned the input shaft by adjusting the rope (raising and lowering the rear); it helped tremendously.

I set it up so I could adjust the rope from under the car; it would be easier if you can get someone to adjust the rope for you.
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Old 12-21-2008, 11:55 PM   #11
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DUDE, TELL ME YOU'VE JACKED THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE UP! The weight of the tranny hanging off the back of the block is supported by the PPF. Wen you remove the PPF and take the tranny off, the ENTIRE BLOCK will rock forward on the motor mounts and make it impossible to mate up the bellhousing. You need a spare floor-jack under the front of the oilpan and JACK UP THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE to lower the rear of the engine. The entire motor will pivot like 30* on the motor mounts.

READ through this and make sure you got everything covered:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t5860/
EDIT EDIT EDIT::: I see that you already said you read this. Glad to know!


PS: If it's gonna take you a couple days to get another floorjack or whatever, THIS IS THE PERFECT TIME to upgrade to the Advanced Autosports UBER clutchline. It's different from all the other braided stainless clutchlines out there in that is replaces the entire rubber/curly-Q assembly. It goes straight from the hardline that runs across the firewall to the slave. MAKES future clutch/tranny work a snap.

Link:
Advanced Autosports Spec Miata Air Intakes, Plugs, Wires, Clutch Line, Oil Line, Fuel Ports

Link to my writeup on the CLUTCHLINE+SLAVE INSTALL:
https://www.miataturbo.net/forum/t20209/

Their SPARK PLUG SPINNER HANDLE is the **** too!
They also have the cheapest STEEL BRAIDED BRAKELINES that I've seen.
Order that **** now!!!

Link to Mr. Slave... because I can:
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Old 12-22-2008, 07:35 AM   #12
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Front of engine is jacked. Im gonna check Harborfreight for the jack Brain recommended
Considering the clutch line
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Old 12-22-2008, 07:47 AM   #13
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If you can get the tranny high enough to put the PPF bolts in two opposing side holes it will help you guide the transmission in. Put the transmission in gear to hold the spline from moving and have someone crank the engine with a wrench on the crank bolt to get the spline to line up with the disk. (Best if the plugs are out)
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Old 12-22-2008, 10:23 AM   #14
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if you go to the gym and lift hard for 6-months, maybe you'll become a man and lift the trans for the first time in your life.


Just jack up the front of the motor and slide it on...its a raging bitch. It took like 10-minutes when I did it alone, in the cold.
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:30 AM   #15
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I've cobbled together a tranny cradle for my harbor freight "racing" jack out of a 2x6 about 9 inches long and a few pieces of 3/4" MDF. It rests on the jack and the MDF fits up under the tranny around the drain plug near where the balance point is and holds it all horizontal and prevents irritating rolling around of the thing.

for the engine, I use the oem scissors jack on top of a piece of 4x4.

put the racing jack under the side and lay under the front of the car and you can have one hand on each jack and move **** around very easily.
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:32 AM   #16
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racing jacks pwn.

I did a brake job on a Hyundai Santa Fe this weekend. Damn jack I was using took about 254 cycles before it started to lift, then almost got off the ground when the jack was overloaded by the weight.
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Old 12-22-2008, 11:52 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hustler View Post
if you go to the gym and lift hard for 6-months, maybe you'll become a man and lift the trans for the first time in your life.


Just jack up the front of the motor and slide it on...its a raging bitch. It took like 10-minutes when I did it alone, in the cold.
**** that i bought a jack
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Old 12-22-2008, 12:10 PM   #18
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The problem we ran into with Saml01's car was that the EGR bracket was in the way and we couldn't slid the trans on. Figured it out after an hour of trying. Is the clutch disc aligned right? is the trans in gear or in neutral?
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Old 12-22-2008, 12:17 PM   #19
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clutch is aligned with tool trans in nuetral. Problem is Im a ***** and cant get the trans up there. Hopefully this jack will do the trick
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Old 12-22-2008, 12:46 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gman3 View Post
clutch is aligned with tool trans in nuetral. Problem is Im a ***** and cant get the trans up there. Hopefully this jack will do the trick
if you saw my arms, you'd probably kill yourself.
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