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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 918534)
So you sent him your own bearings because you cheaped out, and then cry about it incessantly when he told you that your bearings were the reason they failed?
I've got ART hubs on both cars. I had one fail on Rover and he sent me a replacement for the cost of shipping. Kindly stop whining about how your desire to save a few bucks on the core bearings bit you in the ass. Plus the ducting kit *which i think would help in any scenario and would recommend to anyone.* |
The best bearings are probably OEM, repacked with Amsoil2000 grease, and then add real ARP studs. A little cheaper than ART and a bit better (better grease), but a lot more work.
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The balls in stock/replacement OTS hubs have a big variation in ball diameter. Mic them and see. So what happens is the three largest balls take the vast majority of the load in the bearing while the rest are just along for the ride. The three balls get pissed off at this, locally heating the living christ out of the grease, the grease fails, the bearing fails.
So for our LeMons car we now roll our own hubs -- take one crusty old but serviceable hub, replace balls with new higher-grade balls (higher grade = less variation in diameter), pack in zoomy grease (I like Mobilith SHC220), done. Save for one freak ball failure (it fractured clean in two!), no more failed hubs. |
Where do you acquire your balls?
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Karters go nuts for bearing setups.
I know it's comparing apples to llamas, but it's pretty interesting to read about their ceramic bearings: Boca Bearing Company :: Ceramic Bearing Specialists Looking at their application page, they must not be strong enough for automotive use. |
The secret behind the ART hubs is the ball bearings themselves. Ball bearings are graded based on roundness. The factory ones are more egg shaped than the ART ones. I forget the grading numbers of each but the difference is big. Add a good grease and you have the best case scenario for a weak part
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 918534)
So you sent him your own bearings because you cheaped out, and then cry about it incessantly when he told you that your bearings were the reason they failed?
I've got ART hubs on both cars. I had one fail on Rover and he sent me a replacement for the cost of shipping. Kindly stop whining about how your desire to save a few bucks on the core bearings bit you in the ass. |
Originally Posted by soviet
(Post 918477)
BTW- I'm going to enjoy your old suspension once I have an engine in the car :bigtu: |
The egay hubs on my car are still working great after about 1000 track miles or so...i have plenty of hose ducting and don't have to do too much braking either :)
and we'll see how long they last after the car is running again...I'll probably repack some new ones when I replace them. |
Originally Posted by JKav
(Post 918577)
So for our LeMons car we now roll our own hubs -- take one crusty old but serviceable hub, replace balls with new higher-grade balls (higher grade = less variation in diameter), pack in zoomy grease (I like Mobilith SHC220), done.
Originally Posted by czubaka
(Post 918586)
Where do you acquire your balls?
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Dunno if this link is going to work: Welcome to TimkenStore.com!
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I bought a sackful of balls (a ballsack?) a couple years ago, can't recall where, might have been here. There are a half dozen vendors online selling loose balls.
Balls are standardized items based on diameter, material and grade. I think the stock balls work out to a G100 grade. So buy G10; that's an order of magnitude reduction in variation. You can also choose from a few common ball materials in terms of hardness/load capacity/cost. There's plain ol' chromium steel (aka 52100; probably what the stock ones are). The next step up is M50 tool steel. Then silicon nitride (ceramic). |
What size are our balls? I really don't want to remove them to check the size (ouch!).
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by Scrappy Jack
(Post 918521)
You may have picked up on this but someone else reading this thread that hasn't read Hustler's tela novella might not have, but I believe Hustler more accurately said the cheapest Chinese hubs that have been heat-treated should be an improvement when re-packed with the Amsoil grease.
I only point out the specifics because I remember using his input when buying mine. I think they were ~$85 - $90 shipped from a place like Detroit Axle. More specifically, I remember seeing some that did not appear to have been heat-treated. https://www.miataturbo.net/attachmen...ine=1347221117 |
Just get cheap ones and replace as needed, because by the time you shell out $$ for ARTs you will have someone drive into your front wheel and damage the part. Ask me how I know.
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Originally Posted by Jkav
Balls are standardized items based on diameter, material and grade. I think the stock balls work out to a G100 grade. So buy G10; that's an order of magnitude reduction in variation.
Thanks, Jkav. For those of us who don't deal with material specification in this area this is all useful information.
Originally Posted by czubaka
(Post 919786)
What size are our balls? I really don't want to remove them to check the size (ouch!).
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0.4375" is what I measured using a caliper. This was on a hub that came off of my car at ~180k miles so I have no idea if it was OEM or not.
I got a cheap hub once that had smaller balls in it so I'd measure your own balls before ordering. ;) |
Do I measure with, or without ...
I'm sorry, that ain't right. Lord please forgive me. Save the Pigmys in New Guinea. |
Originally Posted by Ski_Lover
(Post 925568)
Do I measure with, or without ...
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I measured some bearings and they were 0.4055 inch which is very close to 0.40625 or 13/32".
100 of them for $17.77 100 13/32" inch Diameter Chrome Steel Ball Bearing G10 Ball Bearings I think these ones were stock 190k miles ones from a 91. I have another set of new ebay hubs, so I'll measure those |
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