Originally Posted by ccsc
(Post 945086)
is the size .4375 or .4065?
the ones I had were 13/32" so 0.4065"
Originally Posted by BigDmiata
(Post 943286)
Just wondering if Soviet or anyone tried going with the G10 replacement steel balls in the ebay hubs? My right front is starting to make noise on my MSM, and I was wondering if this would be worth or try, or just do the plain repack with Amsoil?
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A little late to the topic, but I thought I'd add a data point for the DIY crowd:
I recently bought hubs/bearings through the local NAPA, and the ARP studs from 949. The holes in the rear hubs were too small (~.020") for the studs, and the holes in the front hubs were too big (by a lot). Both parts were for 90-93, I am aware that the 94+ uses a different stud in the rear... that was not the issue here. I had to drill out the rears after pressing out the 'stock' studs and was able to press in the ARP studs. I returned the fronts, and will be sourcing a 'blueprinted' pair from one of the Miata shops with studs already installed. Just a heads up that aftermarket replacement hubs may not be dimensionally accurate to the OEM parts. I guess the chinese figure if the stud is in the right place, and has the right thread, the spline dimensions don't matter... |
Originally Posted by Roda
(Post 950083)
Just a heads up that aftermarket replacement hubs may not be dimensionally accurate to the OEM parts. I guess the chinese figure if the stud is in the right place, and has the right thread, the spline dimensions don't matter...
It might be a way to get both cheaper hubs and cheaper ARP studs. :) |
Honestly, I already had the studs, so I didn't look very hard.... I took a call to ARP to find the required dimension for the hole, though. They suggested .502"... I didn't have a .502 drill bit, but I did have a 1/2"... It worked.
The rear hub holes were ~.480" on the Napa hubs. I didn't measure the front, but they were probably something like .540"... |
Serviceable junkyard hub + G10 balls + Amsoil 2000 race grease = capitalist victory
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 950155)
Serviceable junkyard hub + G10 balls + Amsoil 2000 race grease = capitalist victory
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Patience, young grasshopper. Patience.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 950162)
Patience, young grasshopper. Patience.
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Do you ------s want to see my balls?
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Related
Sav: y u no Amsoil dealer? I'm looking at buying some stuff from TSE sooner rather than later, and I would absolutely throw some MGT and a tube of 2000 grease onto the order. I'd rather support you than my local jackass Amsoil dealer. G10s would make it that much sweeter, I know I will need to do my hubs eventually. |
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 950245)
Related
Sav: y u no Amsoil dealer? I'm looking at buying some stuff from TSE sooner rather than later, and I would absolutely throw some MGT and a tube of 2000 grease onto the order. I'd rather support you than my local jackass Amsoil dealer. G10s would make it that much sweeter, I know I will need to do my hubs eventually. We typically have MTG tranny fluid, SVG diff fluid, Dominator 15w50 motor oil, and 2000 race grease in stock. PM/email me for price quotes. |
Any pictures of bearing failures? I would love to see what fails...
vince |
To bring this back. I measured my prime choice auto hubs from ebay. The stupid cheap ones. Inside set of balls were exactly 13/32 or 10.32mm on my calipers, the outside set of balls were all 10.30mm or just under. Not sure if this is atypical and all balls should be the same size or not. Just one more piece of info.
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Another unhappy ART customer here. My right front hub lasted approx. 26 20 minute sessions on 205 R888s.
Emailed him, he asked what tires and wheels I was using, now two more emails to him over the last 9 days has netted NO RESPONSE. Needless to say, I'm incredibly pissed I paid $205 bucks for a hub with a "Limited Warranty" and the guy won't respond. 5 track days on R888s is not an acceptable life span for "blueprinted" hubs, IMHO. Anyone else selling hubs that are worth a damn? I'm too lazy to repack my own. |
Is ART even in business any more? I thought he closed down shop and moved to Europe.
Dont be too lazy to re-pack your own. After you've done it once or twice it only take 10-20 minutes a hub. |
Originally Posted by z31maniac
(Post 1077024)
Anyone else selling hubs that are worth a damn? I'm too lazy to repack my own.
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Originally Posted by Leafy
(Post 1077027)
Is ART even in business any more? I thought he closed down shop and moved to Europe.
Dont be too lazy to re-pack your own. After you've done it once or twice it only take 10-20 minutes a hub. I'm not in a huge hurry, but lack of communication from vendors pisses me off to no end.
Originally Posted by EO2K
(Post 1077032)
Stop being a pussy: https://www.miataturbo.net/suspensio...ont-hub-75372/
I've read that thread. It's hard for me to find time to work on the car as it is (and I hate doing it), so anything I can do to spend less time in the garage is a win for me. |
Originally Posted by z31maniac
(Post 1077041)
Money > Time
I've read that thread. It's hard for me to find time to work on the car as it is (and I hate doing it), so anything I can do to spend less time in the garage is a win for me. * I have probably spent as much or more in labor as I have in parts for my car because I finally got sick of seeing it up on jackstands surrounded by the boxes of parts I had been accumulating. So, I gathered up all those parts and dropped them off with the car at a quality local shop and said, "put all these things on that car and call me with the total due when it's ready to be picked up." |
Since this got necro'ed.
I'm about to replace all my wheel bearings. What grease should I use on hub shafts? Front hubs are from Planetmiata. Rear bearings are from parts store I know work for. Going to have them pressed in. |
Originally Posted by Impuls
(Post 1079349)
What grease should I use on hub shafts?
In fact, EO2k has a pic of the AMSOIL grease in his hub rebuild thread. The local parts store had Redline in stock, so Redline was used on my shafts. Smooth and slippery. And red too. |
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