Wilwood Big Brake or Corrado
05-12-2010, 10:38 PM
#21
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The stock Corrado rotors. I'm not talking like cracks where you look from 3ft and go "HOLY CRAP DUDE TOW THE CAR HOME', I'm talking like little tiny beginnings of hairline fractures. Nothing that hasn't been seen before, it's a really chronic problem on stock C5 Vette brakes. Still, I figured I should jump up to a rotor that's properly vented, unlike the stock Corrado rotor.
Upgraded MC is a good plan too. I'm going to prototype a 626 master cylinder and see if an install kit makes sense, or whether it just ends up being a drop-in part. BikeInDirt, one of the Cali track crew guys, has it on his car and raves about it.
XP8s will be fine for someone just starting out. Keep an eye on pad life, and if it starts to dip below the 4-5 day mark consider stepping up to the next compound. If you go too high, though, you run around with the pads below their optimal operating temp and they wear quickly as well. The three compounds (8, 10, and 12) also have different modulation and initial bite characteristics - the 10s are a bit softer and modulate with pedal travel vs. pressure, while the 12s have a crisper initial bite and modulate with pressure.
Upgraded MC is a good plan too. I'm going to prototype a 626 master cylinder and see if an install kit makes sense, or whether it just ends up being a drop-in part. BikeInDirt, one of the Cali track crew guys, has it on his car and raves about it.
XP8s will be fine for someone just starting out. Keep an eye on pad life, and if it starts to dip below the 4-5 day mark consider stepping up to the next compound. If you go too high, though, you run around with the pads below their optimal operating temp and they wear quickly as well. The three compounds (8, 10, and 12) also have different modulation and initial bite characteristics - the 10s are a bit softer and modulate with pedal travel vs. pressure, while the 12s have a crisper initial bite and modulate with pressure.
So no cracks evident on the RB slotted (I assume slotted) as of yet?
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05-13-2010, 02:19 AM
#22
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Another question. Anybody sell just rear brake lines? The TSE Wilwood kit only comes with the front of course, and I don't want to buy another full set of lines. Never seen just a front or rear set alone, always a set of 4.
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05-13-2010, 11:21 AM
#24
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I think I have the rear two lines and the distribution block out of my spare set of lines I bought when I chafed one of the front ones and had to buy a whole nuther set of 4 LOL. These are the Advanced Autosport lines, for stock calipers. PM me if interested.
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05-13-2010, 12:00 PM
#26
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I'm going to try these DTC-60's out and if that doesn't work I'm going back to Hawk blue front (hps on the street), and Carbotech xp12 in the rear. For some reason the Racing Brake guys advise against using Carbotech with their rotors due to some variation in the rotor metals.
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05-13-2010, 02:22 PM
#27
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I'll try it out anyway.
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05-13-2010, 03:08 PM
#28
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Its hidden in that site somewhere. They claim the Carbotech pads clogged the rotor or some weird **** like that. I still don't buy Carbotech because I've had two sets in the front and they sucked *** both times.
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05-13-2010, 04:03 PM
#29
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Seems like once you got a layer formed, it wouldn't be an issue. Even if the Carbotechs suck, I wouldn't know it. Anything is better than shitty parts store oe replacements.
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05-13-2010, 06:19 PM
#30
Late in to this but I'd recommend just do the M-tuned fronts with corrado's first. You'll have $100 in brackets and $60 in rotors. Spend the big bucks on a better brake set up if and when you find this isn't adequate for your driving. The big buck set up will save you time and money in the long run. The pads for the wilwoods have a lot more material in them and last longer but don't cost any more than for our stock brakes. With how quick you can change pads with them it's much easier to run dedicated track pads and use cheap pads for the street.
I've been running xp10 fronts and xp8 rears for a year now. They work pretty well as a DD/track day set up. I've heard really good things about Cobalt lately. I'm likely going to give them a shot when I need pads again. They don't need the break in that Carbotech does. Don't know about how corrosive the dust may be though.
I've been running xp10 fronts and xp8 rears for a year now. They work pretty well as a DD/track day set up. I've heard really good things about Cobalt lately. I'm likely going to give them a shot when I need pads again. They don't need the break in that Carbotech does. Don't know about how corrosive the dust may be though.
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05-13-2010, 06:28 PM
#31
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Late in to this but I'd recommend just do the M-tuned fronts with corrado's first. You'll have $100 in brackets and $60 in rotors. Spend the big bucks on a better brake set up if and when you find this isn't adequate for your driving. The big buck set up will save you time and money in the long run. The pads for the wilwoods have a lot more material in them and last longer but don't cost any more than for our stock brakes. With how quick you can change pads with them it's much easier to run dedicated track pads and use cheap pads for the street.
I've been running xp10 fronts and xp8 rears for a year now. They work pretty well as a DD/track day set up. I've heard really good things about Cobalt lately. I'm likely going to give them a shot when I need pads again. They don't need the break in that Carbotech does. Don't know about how corrosive the dust may be though.
I've been running xp10 fronts and xp8 rears for a year now. They work pretty well as a DD/track day set up. I've heard really good things about Cobalt lately. I'm likely going to give them a shot when I need pads again. They don't need the break in that Carbotech does. Don't know about how corrosive the dust may be though.
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05-14-2010, 12:02 AM
#33
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GO for the willwoods they last a long long time, brake like crazy and are so easy to change a cave man can do it. i love the willwoods. i think they are worth the extra money, to do it right the first time.
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05-14-2010, 12:12 AM
#34
I would consider the 4 POT dynapro if you're going to get wilwoods. Having to fix multiple leaky bleeder screws and fittings + the metal toothpick pad retainer has me second guessing if I made the right caliper choice going with the dynalite. I haven't looked into what this means for pad selection or cost, though.
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05-14-2010, 01:14 AM
#35
I would consider the 4 POT dynapro if you're going to get wilwoods. Having to fix multiple leaky bleeder screws and fittings + the metal toothpick pad retainer has me second guessing if I made the right caliper choice going with the dynalite. I haven't looked into what this means for pad selection or cost, though.
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05-14-2010, 02:59 AM
#36
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05-14-2010, 04:59 AM
#37
NA6C-Guy,
Either option will get the job done. There is roughly a 12 lb difference between the two options. The original DBA rotor or our 949 V4 replacement rotors are a far more thermally efficient design than the OEM Corrado rotor. Total thermal capacity will be greater with our 11" V4 kit compared to a Corrado rotor based kit.
Whichever you choose, you must run brake ducts for track use at your power and weight.
If you are just getting started as a track driver, running street tires and expect to be well over Spec Miata lap records for your local tracks, you have can run either with XP8's. If OTOH, you are running race tires at your weight/power and think you'll be at or below SM records, you'll need the maximum braking and at least XP10's up front.
Either option will get the job done. There is roughly a 12 lb difference between the two options. The original DBA rotor or our 949 V4 replacement rotors are a far more thermally efficient design than the OEM Corrado rotor. Total thermal capacity will be greater with our 11" V4 kit compared to a Corrado rotor based kit.
Whichever you choose, you must run brake ducts for track use at your power and weight.
If you are just getting started as a track driver, running street tires and expect to be well over Spec Miata lap records for your local tracks, you have can run either with XP8's. If OTOH, you are running race tires at your weight/power and think you'll be at or below SM records, you'll need the maximum braking and at least XP10's up front.
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05-25-2010, 04:55 AM
#38
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Though I am very subject to changing my mind again, I think for now I am going to go with the M-Tuned front kit, RB Corrado front and stock Miata size RB rears, XP10's, some kind of lines, and just run the stock calipers and master cylinder for now, for cost reasons. I'm not realistically going to be tracking it any for the foreseeable future, so for now that will be more than good enough for my spirited daily driving / weekend fun / occasional autocross or possibly a track event or two. When the time comes, I'm only BBK V4 and master cylinder away. This whole staggered build sucks, trying to build an eventual track car while still having to daily it for another year or more. Things will just have to be eventual and chaotic when they do happen. Probably going to cost me more doing some stuff twice, but oh well. Thanks for the help so far. Maybe one day I will actually be able to hit the track.
As of now, tires will be my first purchase, with a good alignment, followed up by the Teins, then the brakes lastly. My transmission isn't playing nice right now, so it may interfere and force me to throw money at it to make it leave me alone, so who knows.
As of now, tires will be my first purchase, with a good alignment, followed up by the Teins, then the brakes lastly. My transmission isn't playing nice right now, so it may interfere and force me to throw money at it to make it leave me alone, so who knows.
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05-25-2010, 11:23 AM
#39
Though I am very subject to changing my mind again, I think for now I am going to go with the M-Tuned front kit, RB Corrado front and stock Miata size RB rears, XP10's, some kind of lines, and just run the stock calipers and master cylinder for now, for cost reasons. I'm not realistically going to be tracking it any for the foreseeable future, so for now that will be more than good enough for my spirited daily driving / weekend fun / occasional autocross or possibly a track event or two. When the time comes, I'm only BBK V4 and master cylinder away. This whole staggered build sucks, trying to build an eventual track car while still having to daily it for another year or more. Things will just have to be eventual and chaotic when they do happen. Probably going to cost me more doing some stuff twice, but oh well. Thanks for the help so far. Maybe one day I will actually be able to hit the track.
As of now, tires will be my first purchase, with a good alignment, followed up by the Teins, then the brakes lastly. My transmission isn't playing nice right now, so it may interfere and force me to throw money at it to make it leave me alone, so who knows.
As of now, tires will be my first purchase, with a good alignment, followed up by the Teins, then the brakes lastly. My transmission isn't playing nice right now, so it may interfere and force me to throw money at it to make it leave me alone, so who knows.
Just installing them made them worth the money over OEM!
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05-25-2010, 03:01 PM
#40
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Well, everything I am doing will be transferable to the Wilwood setup later, so it won't be a complete waste. I'm just thinking of it as I'm only buying 75% of the package now, saving the most expensive parts until I really need them.
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