Wilwood Dynapro/dynalite maintenance
#23
Don't ever set it on fire, it makes stuff that smells like fresh cut grass. If you inhale it, you die. Phosgene is the word, or the bad stuff. I agree with pat as well, that **** is not to be fucked with. I bet you can't even buy it in cali.
That means don't weld parts cleaned with brake cleaner, either. Don't do lines off hot brake rotors cleaned with brake clean.
I plan on pulling my pads and blowing out whatever dust gets between the pad and caliper as I rotate the wheels. I plan on using air, because you really don't want to pack dust down in the bore between the piston.
That means don't weld parts cleaned with brake cleaner, either. Don't do lines off hot brake rotors cleaned with brake clean.
I plan on pulling my pads and blowing out whatever dust gets between the pad and caliper as I rotate the wheels. I plan on using air, because you really don't want to pack dust down in the bore between the piston.
#24
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<p>
</p><p> </p><p>I actually laughed out loud, and had intended on making a similar post as Andrew did. Glad you clarified </p><p>Seems like best bet is just to use the crap out of them and replace them every 3 years or so. Not too bad.</p>
</p><p>No. He edited that post. When I saw his response all it said was. Both of them actually. He didn't say they catch on fire until I specifically asked what was wrong with them.</p><p>"run the bootless and replace them every 3 years. they only cost 200 bucks for a pair."</p><p>Which tells me nothing of why not to, other than they are cheap.</p><p>
#25
Don't ever set it on fire, it makes stuff that smells like fresh cut grass. If you inhale it, you die. Phosgene is the word, or the bad stuff. I agree with pat as well, that **** is not to be fucked with. I bet you can't even buy it in cali.
That means don't weld parts cleaned with brake cleaner, either. Don't do lines off hot brake rotors cleaned with brake clean.
I plan on pulling my pads and blowing out whatever dust gets between the pad and caliper as I rotate the wheels. I plan on using air, because you really don't want to pack dust down in the bore between the piston.
That means don't weld parts cleaned with brake cleaner, either. Don't do lines off hot brake rotors cleaned with brake clean.
I plan on pulling my pads and blowing out whatever dust gets between the pad and caliper as I rotate the wheels. I plan on using air, because you really don't want to pack dust down in the bore between the piston.
--Ian
#26
<p>No. He edited that post. When I saw his response all it said was. Both of them actually. He didn't say they catch on fire until I specifically asked what was wrong with them.</p><p>"run the bootless and replace them every 3 years. they only cost 200 bucks for a pair."</p><p>Which tells me nothing of why not to, other than they are cheap.</p>
#28
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I think I got the catching on fire thing figured out.
So walk me through this noob style.
When changing pads I want to make sure to clean the piston off real good before pushing it back into the caliper. So compressed air? Wipe it clean?
Can I push them in one by one?
Stupid questions but I've never dealt with wilwoods before.
So walk me through this noob style.
When changing pads I want to make sure to clean the piston off real good before pushing it back into the caliper. So compressed air? Wipe it clean?
Can I push them in one by one?
Stupid questions but I've never dealt with wilwoods before.
#29
I think I got the catching on fire thing figured out.
So walk me through this noob style.
When changing pads I want to make sure to clean the piston off real good before pushing it back into the caliper. So compressed air? Wipe it clean?
Can I push them in one by one?
Stupid questions but I've never dealt with wilwoods before.
So walk me through this noob style.
When changing pads I want to make sure to clean the piston off real good before pushing it back into the caliper. So compressed air? Wipe it clean?
Can I push them in one by one?
Stupid questions but I've never dealt with wilwoods before.
#31
I've had Dynalites on my car for 10 years now and never bothered to clean the pistons, seems to be doing fine.
As for retracting the pads, it's best to do it by pushing all of them at once, but I've done it before with just a screwdriver and it works fine. The best way of it is to buy one of these, though:
Lisle Tools 29100LISLE Disc Brake Pad Spreader
Insert it in the caliper, squeeze 3 times, wiggle it to pop it out, and insert new pads. Done.
--Ian
As for retracting the pads, it's best to do it by pushing all of them at once, but I've done it before with just a screwdriver and it works fine. The best way of it is to buy one of these, though:
Lisle Tools 29100LISLE Disc Brake Pad Spreader
Insert it in the caliper, squeeze 3 times, wiggle it to pop it out, and insert new pads. Done.
--Ian
#37
It doesn't, that's for a single piston sliding caliper like the factory one.
Swapped pads today and I couldn't find my caliper speculum, had to make do with a screwdriver instead. Took a few minutes longer, but still works fine.
Found the spreader 10 minutes after I was done with the brakes, while getting out the heat gun.
--Ian
Swapped pads today and I couldn't find my caliper speculum, had to make do with a screwdriver instead. Took a few minutes longer, but still works fine.
Found the spreader 10 minutes after I was done with the brakes, while getting out the heat gun.
--Ian
#38
<p>Not sure. @OGRacing would know the answer to that.</p>
generally the pistons will move outward, so keeping the pistons clean isn't that much of a concern. if you want, during pad a change (when the pistons are moving inward).. hit the pistons with brake clean and wipe them off with a lint free rag. that should keep them clean. but like i said before you shouldn't have any problems with dirt, and stainless pistons shouldn't rust.
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Your Source For Motorsports Safety Equipment
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800.934.9112
703.430.3303
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