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Old 01-26-2009, 04:03 PM   #1
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Default Wilwood propvalve question

Started my complete brake-overhauling yesterday, including new front calipers, stainless lines, Carbotech XP8 pads, ATE Super blue brakefluid and the Wilwood adjustable brake proportioning valve.

I'm mounting the propvalve inside the car, next to the shifter basically, so started routing new brake hardline in the transmission tunnel (like the Targa Miata).

The way I did now is take the line for the rear brakes out of the brake master cylinder and use the union supplied in the FM kit (circled in blue) to bypass the stock propvalve and connect it to the line on the firewall. The line coming from the master going to the right front caliper goes through the propvalve aswell. (As stock basically)

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Should the two fittings (brakeline to right front caliper) circled in red also be connected thru a union bypassing the stock propvalve completely (and remove it)

I have no ABS by the way.
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Old 01-26-2009, 05:56 PM   #2
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It would look better, but that side of the valve is supposedly straight through/no restriction.
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Old 01-26-2009, 06:18 PM   #3
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cool, guess I'll just ditch it to save some underhood-clutter

did you mount the valve inside the cab or just under the hood?
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Old 01-26-2009, 07:29 PM   #4
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If it's not too late I'd think about taking the front set of xp8's back and exchange them for xp10's. A little less dusty, a little less noisy and should wear better if you are doing any track events. I've had no problems using the 10's in cold, wet, snowy weather on a daily driver. Cold bite seems just as good as the 8's.

The 8's in the front were completely done after 2 track events. Rears are still in great shape but that has me wanting to do the proportioning valve mod too.
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Old 01-26-2009, 07:37 PM   #5
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thanks but to be honest, I don't really care about brake dust or noise or have the need for XP10s, both power- and skillwise
The M-Tuned kit allowing use of Corrado 11" rotors and the propvalve should suffice I think. If not, I can always step up to XP10s
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Old 03-03-2009, 09:10 AM   #6
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So, I tried flushing the brakelines and bleeding everything yesterday, but for some shitty reason the fittings at the propvalve keep leaking. I did not use any sealant on the metric and NPT fittings, resulting in a nice squirt of fresh ATE superblue in my eye I tried to tighten them even more, breaking one fitting. Had the flare done again with a fresh fitting. Still no luck, leaking wont stop. Tighten again until it breaks and then back off half a turn or should I use any sealant (teflontape or the like)?


I did install the M-Tuned brake kit with the Corrado rotors tho, after taking of the dustshields, everything fit perfectly fine
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Old 03-03-2009, 01:02 PM   #7
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yeah, mine leaks too from the bottom fitting. I'm really tired of it. Any ideas?
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Old 03-03-2009, 01:14 PM   #8
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I'd use some kind of sealant if they're still leaking. Teflon tape is clean and easy. Any reason to not use it?
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Old 03-03-2009, 01:51 PM   #9
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I was told to stay away from teflon tape as shards might clog up the brake lines and the fittings themselves would make a proper seal. Guess it wouldn't hurt if the tape is applied carefully and not right around the edges.
I ******* hate diving under the car in this crap weather for little jobs like this
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Old 03-03-2009, 02:21 PM   #10
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i always do my tape around the upper edges of the threads, this way they make a seal, but it's nearly impossible for it to get inside the lines and clog ****. I've used teflon tape on my speed bleeders for something like 7-8 years now.
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Old 03-03-2009, 03:03 PM   #11
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I think the "industry standard is 1.5 thread back from the face of the fitting. If the tape is 1.5-2 threads back then you won't have any issues with tape getting into the system, if anything it will peel the tap back, not draw it in.
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Old 03-03-2009, 03:46 PM   #12
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well **** me in the *******. I know what I'm doing on saturday.
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Old 03-03-2009, 05:12 PM   #13
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Don't let that brake fluid eat your paint off hustler.
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Old 03-03-2009, 05:47 PM   #14
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I'll try the teflontape then. Thanks Chad and Scott
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Old 03-03-2009, 06:15 PM   #15
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see, if you look here:

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I probably got more tape on the bolts you screw the fittings in with, than the threads themselves.
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Old 03-03-2009, 06:50 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cjernigan View Post
Don't let that brake fluid eat your paint off hustler.
too late.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Braineack View Post
see, if you look here:



I probably got more tape on the bolts you screw the fittings in with, than the threads themselves.
quit posting that ****. I've spent enough money, don't make me look at it.
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Old 03-17-2009, 05:24 PM   #17
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Anyone have pictures of their valve install. We did the damn group buy and no one posted pictures of their install. Including me because I haven't installed it yet.
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Old 03-17-2009, 07:37 PM   #18
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use teflon tape or something to seal it up because my **** leaks like a bitch.
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Old 03-17-2009, 07:41 PM   #19
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I havent installed it yet. maybe this weekend since I'll have a hand to bleed the system.
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Old 03-24-2009, 02:17 PM   #20
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a bit late, but I used teflon tape on the fittings. No more leaks As for the install: basically copied the Targa miata setup:
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the hole is now covered with ducktape and some carpet

Deleted stock prop-valve:
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Big-*** Corrado rotors using the M-Tuned brake kit:
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Dialed it in on the track 1 week ago, was very happy with the brakes. I was less happy with the amount of fucktards they let onto the track. Golf and civic-galore Got pushed off by a golf and had to lock all fours at 80 MPH to avoid. Later that session rain came in which lead to a lot of locked up wheels. Hadn't got used to new brakes yet
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