Wilwood propvalve question - Page 2 - Miata Turbo Forum - Boost cars, acquire cats.

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Old 04-19-2009, 01:27 PM   #21
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beware of super human strength while installing:

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Old 04-19-2009, 01:41 PM   #22
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Nice clean install, Oscar!

If you really feel the need to spend any more time on it, you could bend up a new set of lines to "delete" the unions underhood...
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Old 04-19-2009, 09:17 PM   #23
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Go it in. Had to replace the metric fitting with an SAE, oh wellz






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Old 04-19-2009, 09:48 PM   #24
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Well sounds like you have the leaks fixed. But FWIW I have used teflon tape to fix brake line leaks. When we were building the FSAE car we had some light leaking on some of the brake fittings (custom fit flared tubing installed by us half-dead-from-lack-of-sleep students) and did not have time to flare new ones (for the third time). Though the brakes worked, the FSAE safety technical inspection is notoriously tough (as it should be) so it had to be corrected. At someone's suggestion I tried wrapping some teflon tape around the tubing behind the flare (not on the nut). It worked great. No leaks, and no one died. As far as I know to this day that tape is still there.
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Old 04-19-2009, 10:15 PM   #25
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brain, did you reflare your lines with new 3/8-24 fittings? No one but FM seems to have a 1/8 NPT to M10x1mm metric inverted flare fitting available.
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Old 04-19-2009, 10:21 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Pipefather View Post
brain, did you reflare your lines with new 3/8-24 fittings? No one but FM seems to have a 1/8 NPT to M10x1mm metric inverted flare fitting available.
he had a bit of an odyssey with this...

1. couldn't get original short flare-to-banjo off the stock prop valve. ordered a second from finishline (yay local shops)
2. busted the metric to sae flare right in half.
3. had to cut off the flare on the new line, slip on a 3/16 flare collar, and re-double-flare the line.

meanwhile, someone should let FM know that their adapter is too thin or that they should just make up a new line that fits. the latter's gotta be dirt cheap comparatively.
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Old 04-19-2009, 11:34 PM   #27
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To be fair, that's a custom built fitting for FM (I think), that's why no one but FM has one.

Oh, and the Targa setup is a copy of my setup Oscar, you technically copied me, an idiot from Podunk Oregon. Looks good though!
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Old 04-20-2009, 10:30 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The_Pipefather View Post
brain, did you reflare your lines with new 3/8-24 fittings? No one but FM seems to have a 1/8 NPT to M10x1mm metric inverted flare fitting available.
3/16 tubing nut + double flaring tool = win.

Quote:
Originally Posted by y8s View Post
meanwhile, someone should let FM know that their adapter is too thin or that they should just make up a new line that fits. the latter's gotta be dirt cheap comparatively.
Or someone should tell me that those fittings don't need to be torqued to 120ft lbs, and that I should have held the fitting with a wrench while I tightened the tubing nut.

Saw good now, so whatevez.
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Old 04-20-2009, 11:10 AM   #29
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brain,
did the funky fittings go all the way down into the valve? I'm worried about over-tightening mine.

Thanks,
The Illegitimate Son of God
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Old 04-20-2009, 11:13 AM   #30
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as you can see in the above picture, the two FM supplied fittings into the valve did screw almost the entire way into it.

the wilwood supplied one I had to replace it with, would barely go past the red goo on the threads.

the tubing nuts are just tight enough to seal.
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Old 04-20-2009, 11:25 AM   #31
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all fittings are flare fittings hustledonkey. they need to be snugged tight. i'd say no more than 15 ft-lbs but no less than 8 or 10.
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Old 04-20-2009, 01:50 PM   #32
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I used a ratchet to tighten the fittings in the propvalve, then held it with a wrench while tightening the line into that. It leaked at first, but after some teflontape all was good.

kotomile: I can't be bothered to redo more lines to get rid of the unions under the hood. Got sick of bending, trying, bending again and have the lines flared over and over again because I f-ed up. I'm cool with this setup and it works excellent
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Old 04-20-2009, 02:06 PM   #33
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Chad said he was impressed with it.
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Old 04-20-2009, 02:12 PM   #34
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Awesome, a well-known and respected MT.net member is impressed with my fabbing skills. I can die a happy man now (seriously, I owe him bigtime for his help with my MS)
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Old 04-21-2009, 06:12 PM   #35
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Sorry to hear about the broken fitting. Put that much torque through an SAE fitting, the same thing is going to happen. Brass just isn't that strong, unfortunately. I've busted my share of brass pipe fittings over the years. It's the right material for the job because of the way it deforms, but it has to be treated with care. BTW, the same rule applies to oil coolers - definitely use a wrench on the cooler as well as the fitting. It sucks to rip one of those apart. Heck, make it a habit any time you're putting two fittings together like this.

Tape is okay on the pipe threads although I prefer paste. On the flare fittings, all the sealing should come from the flare itself so there should be no need for extra goo.

We looked everywhere to find a source for these NPT-metric flare fittings off the shelf. No luck. SAE ones, no problem. We found one source, and the guy making them died! So we had to start over again. Ah, the fun.

Curly gave me a great suggestion for the prop valve location that I used on the Targa car - thanks
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Old 04-21-2009, 06:56 PM   #36
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Live and learn. wasn't that big of a deal, i've done worse that I couldn't remedy walking across the street to the parts store.
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Old 04-23-2009, 09:30 PM   #37
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Oscar definitely put alot of effort into his propvalve install. Appears he replaced damn near every line on the car but came up with a clean functional install.
No problem helping you out man, that's what we're all about here right? I can't thank you and your family enough for letting me stay at your place.
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Old 04-24-2009, 09:13 AM   #38
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I did replace all but one brake line. The one to the right front wheel is still stock, as that's the only one where the fitting for the braided line came off easily. The piece between the rear wheels is a new OEM steel line, cost me only $30 from the dealer. Was a no-brainer as I couldn't be arsed to bend that line the way it's supposed to be. Overal I'm very happy with my brakes now


Oh, and it was cool having you over man. Hope you enjoyed your roundtrip too
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