hustler

iTrader: (6)

lol :gay:


nice rear end.

Laur3ns

Are you suggesting the FM kit (Wilwood Forged Dynalites) flexes and overheats? Maybe if you put water in your brake lines instead of good fluid? Can you elaborate on your experience?

y8s

iTrader: (8)

the forged calipers are somewhat better than the original billet ones. but i never had them overheat on the track. you mean to tell me that the stock brakes (sport or otherwise) wont overheat?

I've seen miatas melt backing plates on brake pads. what fixes that?

Laur3ns

Stop talking, get out your tissues:

Saml01

iTrader: (9)

The W looks like boobies.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Lol. That's going on Mike's Yugo he's been working on....

hustler

iTrader: (6)

lol, I like em now.

spike

Looks somewhat the same as my set-up.

Here's mine.

http://eunos.ca/catalog/product_info...roducts_id=408

mikef85

iTrader: (7)

That's right man, After my ride is finished getting pimped I won't be able to get the ladies away from that thing.



Imagine that thing bagged, with 18's, 10k watt audio system sportin' six 15" subs, chameleon paint job....the works. That, my friend, is going to get me laid hardcore.

Laur3ns

Looks good. I am going to try to fit them myself later this week.

spike

^ Installing the brakes are easy,just make sure you use alot of loc-tite on the caliper bracket bolts & torque them down to spec.

ray_sir_6

iTrader: (1)

Wilwood's Dynalite calipers are weak and flex under hard breaking. This is the result of them being so light. We had my 1.6l Miata (1.8 front BBK) and another 1.6l Miata (4-wheel Wilwoods)...same driver...same day...same track...Wilwoods were TOAST 10min into the session, mine never faded even after 4 sessions. Both had Motul 600, new pads (EBC yellow for me, Hawks for Wilwoods). The Wilwood car was making more power, so was harder on the brakes, but we also weren't pushing it as hard cause it was really loose (drift suspension setup, didn't want to go straight). My car makes more power now than my friend's, but it didn't have any brake fade, even when pushing HARD against an Evo.

Better brake venting. More air across the brakes and thru the rim. You can always OVER USE the brakes, and no matter what setup you have, they will overheat. Even racecars have brake failures.

Laur3ns

One rear brake done:
http://picasaweb.google.com/laurens....ey=dpDpOhMBRkk

Laur3ns

Ah, no one notices I had them the other way around. The slots must be facing the other side. All wheels are now big braked and mounted as they should.

Stopping power (at speed) is amazing. Think I need wider rubber now... thinking Toyo R888 225/45R15...

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

those are expensive as hell in that size, think €200 at least each

bring your rotors to the track tomorrow, see you there

Laur3ns

@Oscar: the rotors are packed!
Those Toyo's will be around 180 I think.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

excellent

I'd love some R-comps, but can't justify them for 40 mins. a month tops..

Savington

iTrader: (31)

So run them all the time. Life is too short to not run good rubber.

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

true true
I'll get some R-comps next spring, gives me time to burn up my current T1Rs, save for R888s and be done with the worst rains and crap weather we get


on a sidenote: Spooky's car looks the **** and I love how the wilwoods peek around the 6ULs

thanks for the rotors Laurens

hustler

iTrader: (6)

even "hard, weathered" r-comps over 1-year old still grip really well and are worth the cash. I got to the point where I was going through a set of street tires per track day, so R-comps are actually cheaper in the long-run.