Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 663800)
Lest the natives skin you alive before you read this, yes I can do a package deal. $1012 with calipers, lines, and hardware. You supply pads, either through me or someone else.
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Originally Posted by dgmorr
(Post 664321)
This will fit any NA/NB front upright, correct? I like.
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Originally Posted by bellwilliam
(Post 664142)
very good deal. I still have a set of rotors to go through. I love the $30 replacement ring part.
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I will likely try a set of directional-vanes to see whether I get significantly more life out of them.
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Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 664777)
I will likely try a set of directional-vanes to see whether I get significantly more life out of them.
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Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 664823)
I predict double the life and your pads will last longer.
OT: my '95 m3 commuter has directional vane on all 4. respect. |
Originally Posted by jasonb
(Post 664831)
double? does the ducting design make any difference, or is directional really that much better?
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WTF are the "bee's knees"? Do they have knees?
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They're what I use to pleasure your girlfriend. I can't be bothered to discuss this further, I am busy sipping Cris and fucking twins with the Cali crew. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 665081)
I am busy sipping Cris and fucking twins with the Cali crew. |
Originally Posted by Savington
(Post 665081)
They're what I use to pleasure your girlfriend. I can't be bothered to discuss this further, I am busy sipping Cris and fucking twins with the Cali crew. FYI, I 'm exceeding MOT on my DTC-60's at Eagle's Canyon now. It's tough to be this manly. I don't have this problem at most tracks, but I'm cutting ~75mph off in 5 places here with 4 1/4-mile long straights, lol. http://www.terrysaytherauto.com/imag...s/ECRTrack.gif I was braking at 275' for #9 at 135mph early in the session, by 6th lap I was braking at 400' and could not lock the brakes, slowing the car with the trans. Do we want the slotted rotor to clear the firebrand? I'm on the Raybestos OEM replacements now but I must admit that I miss the crisp pedal of the slotted RB rotor. |
Originally Posted by emilio700
(Post 664823)
I predict double the life and your pads will last longer.
I’m currently using Coleman rings both front and rear. 11.75 front and 11.44 rear. Bob |
11.75” rotor options just from wilwood
GT directional vane – 9 lbs. (These are slotted. My experience is the slots suck. They increase pad wear and make it difficult to get even pad transfer with most pad compounds that require a bedding procedure. HD, directional vane – 8.5 lbs. ( plain directional vane, has worked the best for me) UL, straight vane – 8.1 lbs. (basic straight vane rotor works well not as well as the directional vane ones.) ULHD, straight vane – 8.1 lbs. (UL with more expensive machining and balancing for which I’m not convinced it is worth the extra cost.) ULD, Drilled straight vane -7.2 lbs. (aggressive drilling might be cool for autocross to save weight I think my car is too fast and too heavy for that much loss in thermal mass and added stress risers on the track I think) ULS, scalloped straight vane -5.4 lbs. (holy cow that is light. I might get a set just for autocross) SRP, drilled and slotted -8.0 lbs. (street poser version that has a nice anti corrosion coating) My experience has been the HD directional vane is the best track performer. Currently running rings form Coleman however and I think the material might be better. In saving cost I didn’t have them balanced. I don’t notice any out of balance issues with them. Bob |
Bob you are the man.
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My Chikara brackets were $180 and use 01 sport front rotors for a grand total of $35/ea from Mazda.
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With all this talk of brake balance, has anyone tried to run the front lines together and through an adjustable proportioning valve and have full line pressure go to the rear?
Let me know if I'm a way off in left field, but it seems like it'd work in my head...i think... |
Originally Posted by falcon
(Post 665836)
My Chikara brackets were $180 and use 01 sport front rotors for a grand total of $35/ea from Mazda.
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Originally Posted by tann3r
(Post 665871)
With all this talk of brake balance, has anyone tried to run the front lines together and through an adjustable proportioning valve and have full line pressure go to the rear?
Let me know if I'm a way off in left field, but it seems like it'd work in my head...i think... A prop valve is not an end-all solution if your front & rear brake hardware are poorly mismatched. It's more of a fine tuning. Stock Miata brake hardware is matched closely enough that an aftermarket prop valve will let you send enough of an increase to the rear (relative to the stock valve) to create an excessively oversteery car. If your lack of rear brake is caused by upgrading to massive front brakes while keeping stock rear hardware, the solution is to upgrade the rear hardware to bring it more in line with what you've done to the fronts, not to decrease line pressure to the fronts. |
Originally Posted by tann3r
(Post 665871)
With all this talk of brake balance, has anyone tried to run the front lines together and through an adjustable proportioning valve and have full line pressure go to the rear?
Let me know if I'm a way off in left field, but it seems like it'd work in my head...i think... Bob |
Thanks Scott and Bob. I guess whats the point in increasing the front brakes only to cut pressure to them. kinda defeats the purpose.
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