So you were the fucker in the Koenigsegg holding me up?

Update for those of you who haven't recieved kits yet: we are currently waiting for wheel spacers. Hoping to see them at the end of this week, beginning of next week.

All wheel spacers and the remaining BBKs have shipped (unless you've heard otherwise from me personally). We do have one full kit in-stock, available at our group buy price with Hawk DTC-70s. Check the classifieds section for more information.

woot..can't wait. Sav, thanks for the update!

Put a few sessions on the new BBK at Buttonwillow today. I knew they would be good, but I never knew it would be this good. I can honestly say that these are the best brakes I've ever felt on any car. :) Rock solid pedal, excellent modulation, and you ALWAYS feel like there's more brakes than what you are using. Nick did a session in my car and was raving about them as soon as he came in.

If you haven't gotten them on the car yet, you're in for a real treat. :)

Awesome!

Now if only buying the hardware to balance out the rears was so easy.. I'm so close to throwing in the towel and paying someone a finder's fee...

PM cueball about his brakes, he has some rx7 calipers on in the back, giving you 11" vented rotors while retaining the ebrake. I need to figure out what's involved.

It's fairly easy - M-Tuned brackets + 1.8 rear brackets + 10.9" Sport rotors.

Trying to track down Sport calipers/brackets/MBC/booster/lines/etc. No luck.

This kit plus stock 1.8l rear brake calipers should do it right? I agree with kotomile that rear sport brake setup is hard to find.
http://www.etdracing.com/m-tuned/pro...products_id=79

Yes, that's what is going on my race car. You need to buy the 10.9" sport rotors as well. And not just the 1.8 caliper, but the 1.8 bracket is needed as well.

Awesome Nick. Thanks for the info. I currently have 1.8L (Not Sport version) setup on my 92NA. So I would just get the brackets from m-Tuned, Sport rotors and a Wilwood brake bias valve and I should be set...hopefully.

thats nice to hear. which pads u run? ducted?

Exactly.

Hawk DTC-70. Yes, ducting in the front is a must for ANY fast track car of ANY make/model.

Started a new thread for rear brake discussion so as to not take this one OT:

https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...030#post701030

Me too Sav! - INCREDIBLE - just freakin' INCREDIBLE! I was at road Atlanta this past weekend and the stopping power is sick! One thing I do know, I have to get more rear bias - my prop vave is maxed to the rear but still not enough to balance it out. I'll have vids posted on my thread - I was so "tickled" coming out of 10a after doing 130, I whooted - I took it in deep, testing it out and wasn't sure if I was going to make it, but it did!

If you guys hadn't gotten the kit - you need to!

BTW after much consideration I just bought one of these kits for my LS1 track Miata. More information here...

https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...212#post742212

I should probably note in this thread that after finally bolting on this kit and putting on the M-Tuned rear bracket (which required grinding) I saw a 200-250*f drop in front caliper temps and 250*f drop in the rears. The pedal is consistent every time, it feels the same after braking down from 120mph as it does on connected light-braking points.

This kit is world-class shit.

hey y'all, i'm planning to pick up gotpsi's 6ul's hes got in his part-out thread. are there any datapoints on 1st gen 6uls fitting? (i'm assuming +36 but i'll double check that).

i figured its worth checking because it sounds like 1st gens are a little bit thicker:

"With a gravity cast wheel, the center hub area is the last part of the mold to be filled by the molten aluminum so it is more prone to unwanted porosity or voids. To combat this potential weakness, the hub area is overbuilt to ensure failsafe strength.
"

ref: http://949racing.com/wheeltech.aspx


graz

I have 1st gen's for the street and they fit with a 5mm spacer but you really need an 8mm or more if you're going to put that wheel on the track.