No need, I made the list to let everyone know how close we were to getting enough people. We've definitely got enough.

Prices for all of the components/kits go up $50 on Feb1, and we won't do mix-and-match orders after Feb1 either. The options will probably only be the upgrade kit and the full kit.

This group buy is now closed. Thanks to those of you that helped get the ball rolling. Once shipping has been determined, we will invoice everyone on the list for their remaining balances.

For those of you who still want to purchase the kit, it will be a regular stock item on our website, but we will not do piecemeal kits.

The options will be as follows:
Upgrade kit
-For our current BBK customers
-Two Trackspeed Engineering 11.75" Wilwood brackets
-Two Wilwood 11.75 rotor assembs (rotor, hat, and hardware)
-$550+ship

Full kit
-Two Wilwood Dynalite 4-piston calipers
-Stainless steel brake lines
-bracket/caliper hardware
-two Wilwood rotor assemblies
-$900 + shipping

We can add pads or extra rotors to either of these kits, but we cannot remove individual parts - that was a benefit extended only to our group buy participants.

Thanks to everyone who made this happen - I have the first pair of pre-production brackets in my hands and I am going to try to get a back-to-back test done at Laguna in a week with our old 11" Corrado kit vs. the new 11.75" kit. :)

Received and paid invoice this morning, does that mean we have an ETA?:naughty:

Even at $900, that's not a bad price for what you get considering the competition.

Unfortunately I still have another set of Corrado rotors to crack and warp before these 11.75" guys go on.

So are all of the invoices sent, then? No emails here.

I can't remember what my paypal email addy is, but the one I check is kotomile at gmail.

We hope to have them out late next week (Friday) or the following Monday the 14th. Brackets are done, we get them early this week. Just waiting on a big box from Wilwood to get all the orders out.

Yes, all invoices have been sent. If you didn't get an email, you used a different email address or we never received a deposit. Sent you a PM.

EDIT - nm, I am an apocolyptic buttock, as James May would say.

EDIT EDIT - paid.

Glad somebody said something... found mine in the junk bin. 1 day too late however, now I have to pay the extra $50.

If you sent a deposit before Feb1, you got the group buy pricing. If the price changed on your end, it's because a few of the invoices got out without shipping charges somehow.

That makes sense... the whole kit is a lot more in shipping than just those brackets. Cool. That give me a little time to scratch up the rest of the $

Anybody want some brakes?

http://trackspeedengineering.com/pho...42_fbzie_0.jpg

http://trackspeedengineering.com/pho...40_fjihs_0.jpg

I am not in on this buy but that is a cool picture.
EDIT: Bonus points for using a pool table.

Me please!

4 paid kits shipping tomorrow.

Nice... I think I'm one of them! Can't wait.

$$ on it's way tomorrow! Thanks Sav

nice..I need to pay for it soon.

Paid

FML

Sav, kits arrived today, look amazing, and don't fit my wheels.

This was a huge risk on my part, however I focused on spoke clearance instead of radial clearance. I was prepared to order and install up to 1/4" wheel spacers with these, as it looked like it easily fit FM's big brake template. That extra .75" jammed it into my spokes and the inside of the rim.

New wheels are most likely on the horizon.

Have these been verified to fit 7" 6uls?

I'm going to test-fit my kit in ET40 6UL's tomorrow or friday. I'm scared.

We do not have any 7" 6uls here so we have not been able to test fit them; we only see 8's and 9's around here (I'm actually not sure I've ever put my hands on a set of 7" 6uls now that I think about it, and I've handled a bunch of these wheels).

In for results.

I'm going to test fit one of Cueball1's Kosei K1s, and negotiate a possible trade. They fit his 11.75" kit, but he's using the mini radials, which have better radial clearance.

If the K1s don't fit my larger lug mount, it'll be either TR 15x7/7.5/8, or 15x7 6ul.

I'd love to save the $120 and go with TR, but I'm afraid I'd see them on my front porch and shoot myself in the head.

$120 also saves me 6lbs total of rotational mass.

Everyone, I have some bad news. I need to retract the wheel fitment info I've provided. With the caliper unmounted there is room to move it back and forth ~4mm on a 15x8/15x9 +36, but once it's mounted up on the bracket there is only about .020" between the bell and the caliper, which means it will contact the wheel on track.

This is obviously incredibly embarassing for me, since I advertised that the brakes would clear 8 and 9" 6ULs without a spacer. At this point, we're going to send a set of 5mm wheel spacers to our group buy participants next week which will rectify the problem - if that plan changes I will post here. This is obviously an imperfect solution to a problem that shouldn't exist, but it's the best we can do.

I apologize for the error - we try as hard as we can to make sure that the parts we make and sell fit as intended, but this one slipped through the cracks. If anyone has any questions or concerns, please feel free to contact me directly so I can address them.

:doh:

You know I'm good with my 20mm spacers, so you don't have to send them with my order - unless you want to. You shoulda got payment a couple days ago for all my crap (good crap that is). Prefect timing too... Road Atlanta is 3 weeks out.

To be fair, Emilio/V8R does state that on their 11.75" bbk's a 4mm spacer is required.

With that said, I'm curious what a 5mm spacer will do to the already tight fitment of 225's on 15x9's under NA fenders.

I don't anticipate it being a problem. Rolled fenders are par for the course with 9s on an NA as-is. On the black car with ~3* of camber up front, I polish the shock towers on the inside, so if anything it will help a bit. I'm just bummed that spacers are required at all.

Are you planning to update the kits eventually?

That was the very first thing we looked at. Our hats are .75 offset with a .32 face thickness. The .83 hat that Wilwood offers only has a .25 face thickness, so you only end up gaining .010, which is useless. The next offset is 1.19 or something, which parks the rotor in the spindle.

Seems like a custom hat would be easy enough to make, or are you not willing to risk the liability of such an vital brake component?

From what I've been told by those in the know, the hats are not a simple piece to make - there are very specific material and heat treat requirements and the costs are fairly high. We may look into it but it would have added at least a couple hundred bucks to the price of each kit as-is.

What happens to handling if I put a 5mm spacer up front and not in the rear? I ask because I'm not looking forward to pressing the rear hub out to swap long wheel-studs...but I will if that's what it takes.

We'll find out.

Do you really think 5mm will be enough to effect the integrity of the oem studs that you'd have to replace them with longer ones? I wouldn't think so, but I'm still learning this game.

http://www.saferacer.com/miata-cage-...productid=1312

Good enough for me.

5mm is about 1.3 mm less than their recommended max.

I have 5mm studs to clear my Corrado brakes on my street wheels and the threads are not strong enough.

In for the answer. I suspect it does not make a huge difference, other than maybe bias the FRC forward a teeny bit (push).

If you can tell the difference between 1cm track width difference from front to rear you are a supreme badass...I firmly believe that you will notice absolutely nothing with a 5mm spacer up front. It will affect scrub radius more than anything (which still won't be noticable)...oh, and did I mention you won't know the difference??? Not sure if I mentioned that... :) BTW, I'll need a considerable sum of cash for those brakes I loaned you so that I can go buy this setup.

Did I mention I am a supreme badass? I used to race F1 but I do not talk about it much.

Would you drive flat out?

Pin it or bin it to win it. Shake and Bake.

So you were the fucker in the Koenigsegg holding me up?

Update for those of you who haven't recieved kits yet: we are currently waiting for wheel spacers. Hoping to see them at the end of this week, beginning of next week.

All wheel spacers and the remaining BBKs have shipped (unless you've heard otherwise from me personally). We do have one full kit in-stock, available at our group buy price with Hawk DTC-70s. Check the classifieds section for more information.

woot..can't wait. Sav, thanks for the update!

Put a few sessions on the new BBK at Buttonwillow today. I knew they would be good, but I never knew it would be this good. I can honestly say that these are the best brakes I've ever felt on any car. :) Rock solid pedal, excellent modulation, and you ALWAYS feel like there's more brakes than what you are using. Nick did a session in my car and was raving about them as soon as he came in.

If you haven't gotten them on the car yet, you're in for a real treat. :)

Awesome!

Now if only buying the hardware to balance out the rears was so easy.. I'm so close to throwing in the towel and paying someone a finder's fee...

PM cueball about his brakes, he has some rx7 calipers on in the back, giving you 11" vented rotors while retaining the ebrake. I need to figure out what's involved.

It's fairly easy - M-Tuned brackets + 1.8 rear brackets + 10.9" Sport rotors.

Trying to track down Sport calipers/brackets/MBC/booster/lines/etc. No luck.

This kit plus stock 1.8l rear brake calipers should do it right? I agree with kotomile that rear sport brake setup is hard to find.
http://www.etdracing.com/m-tuned/pro...products_id=79

Yes, that's what is going on my race car. You need to buy the 10.9" sport rotors as well. And not just the 1.8 caliper, but the 1.8 bracket is needed as well.

Awesome Nick. Thanks for the info. I currently have 1.8L (Not Sport version) setup on my 92NA. So I would just get the brackets from m-Tuned, Sport rotors and a Wilwood brake bias valve and I should be set...hopefully.

thats nice to hear. which pads u run? ducted?

Exactly.

Hawk DTC-70. Yes, ducting in the front is a must for ANY fast track car of ANY make/model.

Started a new thread for rear brake discussion so as to not take this one OT:

https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...030#post701030

Me too Sav! - INCREDIBLE - just freakin' INCREDIBLE! I was at road Atlanta this past weekend and the stopping power is sick! One thing I do know, I have to get more rear bias - my prop vave is maxed to the rear but still not enough to balance it out. I'll have vids posted on my thread - I was so "tickled" coming out of 10a after doing 130, I whooted - I took it in deep, testing it out and wasn't sure if I was going to make it, but it did!

If you guys hadn't gotten the kit - you need to!

BTW after much consideration I just bought one of these kits for my LS1 track Miata. More information here...

https://www.miataturbo.net/showthrea...212#post742212

I should probably note in this thread that after finally bolting on this kit and putting on the M-Tuned rear bracket (which required grinding) I saw a 200-250*f drop in front caliper temps and 250*f drop in the rears. The pedal is consistent every time, it feels the same after braking down from 120mph as it does on connected light-braking points.

This kit is world-class shit.

hey y'all, i'm planning to pick up gotpsi's 6ul's hes got in his part-out thread. are there any datapoints on 1st gen 6uls fitting? (i'm assuming +36 but i'll double check that).

i figured its worth checking because it sounds like 1st gens are a little bit thicker:

"With a gravity cast wheel, the center hub area is the last part of the mold to be filled by the molten aluminum so it is more prone to unwanted porosity or voids. To combat this potential weakness, the hub area is overbuilt to ensure failsafe strength.
"

ref: http://949racing.com/wheeltech.aspx


graz

I have 1st gen's for the street and they fit with a 5mm spacer but you really need an 8mm or more if you're going to put that wheel on the track.