I have 1st gen 15x8 6ULs and they fit with this kit but you need 5mm spacers like Hustler said. Otherwise the caliper will hit the spokes. I use them on the track with 5mm spacers but 8mm would be better for a little margin.

thanks guys. mt.net kicks ass. i'll get some 8mil spacers and some studs.

I should note that my example is with old ass ET40.

I should note that with my example it clears the spokes fine, but the caliper is close to the bell.

Also you have to get the wheels balanced with the weights away from the front edge of the barrel. Otherwise the weights will hit the caliper. Not a big deal just need to be aware. This is true with any of the 6ULs.

oh yeah i forgot. i'll bolt up and take a measurement. iirc emilio said to allow 4mm clearance under track conditions. i'm assuming that applies to both generations.

Unrelated:
I had a rear brake-line fitting hit the wheel weights on the inboard lip and almost kill my weekend.

I specifically ask for a single-plane balance to make sure the wheel weights clear the calipers.

The wheel weights on my 15x9 6UL also had to be removed since they were hitting my Wilwood billet Dynalites. I then had the wheels balanced with the weights on my wheel lips. The tire shop was kind enough to paint the weights black so they aren't noticeable on my black wheels.

Would changing to forged Dynalites (from my billet dynalites) give me more clearance? It sure doesn't look like I have 4mm of clearance to the bell of the wheel (even with the 5mm spacers). Though there is no evidence of contact.

BTW I was previously able to absolutely cook my Wilwoods with XP12s on the factory sport rotors. With the 11.75" Trackspeed kit after a full 30 minute session of abuse there was no sign of fade. At this track: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mission_Raceway_Park

So here's a question for everyone who has installed this kit.

The 4 bolt's (per corner) provided, are all the same.

The one's which bolt through caliper to the aluminum bracket, are of adequate length and get a good number of threads to engage.

Q1 : Bolt Length
These same bolts, bolting through the front upright/caliper ears, and into the aluminum bracket, do not engage the entire threaded bore, of the aluminum bracket, on the other side. Now I know this is an adequate amount of thread engagement, as confirmed by Sav, but wondering if anyone else noticed this, and felt the same trepidation's as I have. I can't say that I would see anything wrong with getting a 1/4" - 1/2" longer bolts to replace them, even just for peace of mind. This way the bolts going through the upright-ears, would engage ALL the threads in the aluminum bracket on the other side.


Q2: Bolt Diameter
Also, the diameter of the upright-to-bracket bolts, is slightly smaller than the OE one's they replace. Therefore, they are 'loose' inside the bore of the factory upright-caliper mounts/ears. Now, I realize with it all bolted up tight, they center in the bore and wouldn't be able to move, but still seems to me like their diameter should be more closely matched to the bore of the upright-ears. Maybe a threaded insert/sleeve to center them in the bore of the upright-ears, to maybe load the bolt up more evenly across the entire length of its shaft?

Hope this is explanatory enough to figure what I mean. I can take and post some pics for examples if necessary.

The tire shop can put the weights in the bell, away from the caliper. Mine balanced fine this way.

^^ Single-plane balance I believe is the name for it.

I understand the trepidation, but it is completely irrational. You said it yourself - the shorter bolts engage "a good number of threads", and all the bolts are of the same length. Therefore, all of the bolts engage "a good number of threads" regardless of any unused threads in the bracket.


The major diameter of the factory M10 bolt is 10.00mm. The major diameter of the 3/8" hardware we use is 9.525mm The difference is 0.475mm, or 0.018". If you wanted to create a bushing, it would need to be 0.009" on each side.

Metric hardware would have increased the cost of the kit, and with a diameter difference of 0.018" we decided that it was just not necessary.

I think you should make special set of caliper brackets with blind holes and helical tap so the bolt JUST bottoms out, then charge him x2 the cost. Scratch that, x3 the cost.

Come on, give the guy a break. If you take away the fact that Sav has run the snot out of this kit, then a bolt that holds on the brakes being loose would make me a little nervous too.

I know, sorry. A little harsh GT42R, all in jest though.

I've installed and been running the kit for nearly a year now, so I'm obviously not too concerned about it, I was simply inquiring if others had made similar observations and what they thought out it. Thanks for the responses.

TSE Biggest Brake Kit came into my house and disrespected my famiry.

Only two days left of our 11.75" Big Brake Kit sale! $100 off our BBK through October 21st. This reduces the price to $800 for the full kit, and only $450 for the upgrade kit.
http://trackspeedengineering.com/sto...bbk-p-100.html
Be sure to place your order before midnight on Friday, October 21st!

Not sure if these fit or not, but it could be an affordable option for the 11.75" brake kits at $25 per rotor:

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedw...nch,14004.html

dumb question:
When should I replace the rotors? I have no cracking, just some wear. This is a stark contrast to the way rotors "gave up the ghost" previously.

Those look very similar to the Wilwood UL32, which are $5 more.
There have been some comments about the practical differences between UL, HD and GT rotors, even in this thread I believe.
The UL are a lot cheaper, but can the Dynapro pads work with a "far side id" of 8.34 (1.705" vs 1.94" radius and of course the difference in heat sink mass).
The pad #7816 seems to have a 1.66" radius (ruler on the monitor) so the skinnier rotors might work after all?

The Wilwood selection in 11.75x0.81" with 8x7" bolt pattern
GT36 11.75x.81” far side id 7.87”
HD36 11.75x.81” far side id 7.87”
SRP 11.75x.81” far side id 8.34”
UL32 11.75x.81” far side id 8.34”
ULHP32 11.75x.81” far side id 8.34”

No revolutionary news... But I'm bored at work and might have use for the knowledge someday.

I'm sure Wilwood has a minimum thickness spec, I'll see if I can find it on Monday. I typically put a set of rotors on for every 2-3 sets of pads.

Do you just ask them to put the weights as far in (towards the center of the car) as possible?

So I see an option on the website for the 6 piston calipers. Talk to us about what that does for us, other than provide more upgrade monies for Theseus, and allowing us to say we have better brakes than Hustler.

Do they run the same or different pads as the 4 piston calipers?
Do they have the same or different clearance requirements than the 4 piston calipers?

Current 11.75" 4 piston caliper owners enjoy relaxed-sphincter braking confidence. Will these 6 piston caliper kits in fact move us beyond that, into a zone of such braking confidence that our sphincters are so relaxed, we must needs wear Depends during track events?

The 6-pots are really just for bling. The pads last slightly longer (maybe 10% at most) and the caliper is stiffer so the pedal feel is a little better, but I think Rover and Theseus have the best Miata brakes in the world, and the small pad life increase doesn't justify the extreme cost of the pads or the calipers. I've tried the 6-pots and I still have the calipers, but we use and recommend the 4-pot calipers on both cars.

6 pot wilwoods def more of a bling upgrade. Need to post up a shot of mine.

Question 1: Does the 11.75" kit clear the stock NB 16" alloys? Specifically the "twisted spoke" ones, as they are the ones I have. These wheels are my dd & winter wheels.

If this is an unknown question, I will post my results. I assume spoke and not bell clearance would be the issue, but I've been bitten in the ass before by assuming.

Question2 : are the 8mm spacers only required with the older +40 6UL's? I will be running +36 8" Gen1's for wets and +36 9" Gen3's for dry. If I might need an 8mm spacer, I'd like to go ahead and order it in advance so that I'm not stuck waiting on a spacer.

Question3: When ordering spacers from say Wheel Adapters, Wheel Spacers, Hub Rings, and much more! | Motorsport Tech should I specify the extra wheel centric machined lip?

Question4: With 5mm or 8mm spacers are the stock wheel studs still long enough? There was discussion of this earlier in the post but I'd like further verification. For track use purposes.

Observation: Sav maybe you should make a "TSE BBK wheel fitment" thread for all this info to accumulate into instead of us having to use the Group Buy thread?