How to make and install your own Diy MegaSquirt
#81
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,517
Total Cats: 4,080
yes. all you gotta do is share the AIT signal with the ecu. basically take your GM sensor, and wire it into the harness itself. the end. you'll have to reflash for the easy therm values, but it's all is needed.
#85
I finally was able to purchase a MS kit for Xmas and just finished building it. I've read every piece of information I can find, but I still have some questions.
I have a 1991 NA FYI.
In the DIYautotune article it talks about IAC for the 90-93. It seems I need to replace Q4 with a TIP120 and somehow wire up IAC to the DB37, however nothing is mentioned about this in this guide. Could someone clarify IAC on 91 NAs.
Thanks Guys
I have a 1991 NA FYI.
In the DIYautotune article it talks about IAC for the 90-93. It seems I need to replace Q4 with a TIP120 and somehow wire up IAC to the DB37, however nothing is mentioned about this in this guide. Could someone clarify IAC on 91 NAs.
Thanks Guys
#86
I identify as a bear.
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Chicago. (The less-murder part.)
Posts: 33,102
Total Cats: 6,636
For a standalone install, assuming a Rev 3.0 PC board, all you need to do it hack the TIP120 into the space normally occupied by Q4, do not install Q20 or D8, and jumper across R39. No modifications are required to the DB37 wiring- that's only for people using stepper-motor idle valves, which we are not. (Although you will most likely be using one or more of the four DB37 pins marked "IACx" for other purposes later on)
Consult the purple section under Step 62 of the official assembly guide: http://www.megamanual.com/ms2/V3assemble.htm
Read Step 62 in its entirety before proceeding.
Here's a picture of how mine went together. Since I did not build the injector current limiting circuit, I used the position normally occupied by R37
for the TIP120. You don't have to use this exact position on the heatsink, but it does need to be heatsunk. The tab and body of the TIP120 should be electrically insulated from the heatsink.
Last edited by Joe Perez; 01-11-2008 at 02:16 PM.
#87
Boost Czar
Thread Starter
iTrader: (62)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Chantilly, VA
Posts: 79,517
Total Cats: 4,080
follow the directions on the mod kit page.
install the tip120 (in place of q16)
remove d8, r39, q2 and q20.
jump r39
install the three leads to tip120. (buy it at radio shack)
on the harness, the green wire will go to 2W. From there install a diode between 2W and 12v. You'll have two extras from D1 and D2 you didnt use.
install the tip120 (in place of q16)
remove d8, r39, q2 and q20.
jump r39
install the three leads to tip120. (buy it at radio shack)
on the harness, the green wire will go to 2W. From there install a diode between 2W and 12v. You'll have two extras from D1 and D2 you didnt use.
#91
A word of advice that I think should be added to the original post.
The settings added to the beginning of the INI file have to also be copied to the section titled lower in the INI called "#else ; Actually only good for DualTable and MSnS-Extra." or else autotune wont work.
You can thank Cjernigan for bringing this to my attention.
The settings added to the beginning of the INI file have to also be copied to the section titled lower in the INI called "#else ; Actually only good for DualTable and MSnS-Extra." or else autotune wont work.
You can thank Cjernigan for bringing this to my attention.
#94
is this from the wire side, or from the connector side? there's very little room from the wire side, but it looks like there's the best chance of lifting that tab.
i wasn't sure if there was a lip on the front of that tab that could be easily reached from the front (connector) side.
thanks!
i wasn't sure if there was a lip on the front of that tab that could be easily reached from the front (connector) side.
thanks!
#96
with some effort and only minor damage to unrelated components, household pets, and small children, i was able to get the a pin out.
as I'm so ---- and phasing in the MS slowly, i'm building a straight-through harness first to prove that the boomslang is not a problem. After this, I'll start pulling pins and redirecting them to the MS.
Why is it called "overengineering" when someone just does the job "right" the first time?
as I'm so ---- and phasing in the MS slowly, i'm building a straight-through harness first to prove that the boomslang is not a problem. After this, I'll start pulling pins and redirecting them to the MS.
Why is it called "overengineering" when someone just does the job "right" the first time?
#97
The pins come out really easy when done right. I use a paperclip, strong one, cut the end off a tiny bit at a angle to make it pointed, then stick it in and pry the retaining clip down from the metal crimp in while pulling the wire out. Works great. Took me 30 minutes to get it right the first time.
#98
with some effort and only minor damage to unrelated components, household pets, and small children, i was able to get the a pin out.
as I'm so ---- and phasing in the MS slowly, i'm building a straight-through harness first to prove that the boomslang is not a problem. After this, I'll start pulling pins and redirecting them to the MS.
Why is it called "overengineering" when someone just does the job "right" the first time?
as I'm so ---- and phasing in the MS slowly, i'm building a straight-through harness first to prove that the boomslang is not a problem. After this, I'll start pulling pins and redirecting them to the MS.
Why is it called "overengineering" when someone just does the job "right" the first time?
Since my pic isn't ready yet, try this: