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I bought 245s. Will see how I get on. Suspect I'll need a 5mm spacer and it won't be ideal on a 9J, but it was either that or an over stretched 225 AR1 or some crappy Federals.
A local guy ran them in place of Hoosiers last autocross season (on 11”uls)- everyone who drove the car all rated em 70-80% the grip of A7s. I think you’ll be quite happy- if you follow Greg Peters they are his next set of tires, so I’m sure a review from him will be coming.
A local guy ran them in place of Hoosiers last autocross season (on 11”uls)- everyone who drove the car all rated em 70-80% the grip of A7s. I think you’ll be quite happy- if you follow Greg Peters they are his next set of tires, so I’m sure a review from him will be coming.
Nothing against Gregg Peters, but I doubt his review will be very relevant to what I do with my car.
I have it albeit at a 205. Noisy af on the street. Very heavy tire that also induces nvh.
Plenty of grip but very "understeery". Had to have a 4 click difference back to front to balance the car.
We got a batch of these for our cars now. Still winter here but testing this summer.
We tested those last year against the RC1 and Toyo RR in the same size. Controlled test, 3 drivers, same car, stickers, pressures optimized.
RR was fastest and dealt with overheating the best. Far more precise steering than other two.
RC1 (old compound) was roughly tied with AR1 for laps. Best AR1 lap was faster but average of best 10 about the same. RC1 took 5-8 turns to come back after being overdriven.
AR1 had worst steering response. Not terrible, just not quite as good as RC1 and nowhere near as crisp as RR. AR1 also took 5-8 turns to come back after being overdriven. Pyro temps on AR1 were nuts, 220-240°f
RR was fastest on 1st or 2nd lap. If cooled for a whole lap, we could match that best lap in the same session. The RC1 and AR1 were always fastest on 1st lap then impossible to match that lap no matter how much we pedaled it. That indicates a compound and casing that develops its best grip way below 200°, like a street tire. Wear on AR1 was severe. Less wear on RC1 and almost no wear on RR.
In short, the AR1 is a cheap, low tech but very sticky street tire. The RC1 is about the same but runs much cooler, indicating it would have a longer cycle life. The RR is a real race tire. A good driver on the RR's could click off endless laps that match the best AR1 and RC1 laps.
AR1 a good time attack and cheap HPDE tire. RC1 a better budget race tire. The RR the best combo of wear, grip, response but they are not cheap. You get what you pay for.
Sound about right for my high power(400+ whp) street driven car that sees the occasional trackday use then. the RC1, and RR isnt really something i can use for street use in norway. It needs to have some thread pattern, and E markings, and be available here. ill consider the RR if i go for a extra set of wheels just for track use
Any one tried these at autocross? Curious to if they would heat up quick enough to be better than a Rival S, or if they are more in line with the old NT01s. 245s or 225s for that matter.
Any one tried these at autocross? Curious to if they would heat up quick enough to be better than a Rival S, or if they are more in line with the old NT01s. 245s or 225s for that matter.
They heat up fast. More like a Rival-S 1.5 than any other 100TW
Had some disappointment yesterday. First session on my new 245 AR1s, bringing them in gently for first heat cycle, did 3 laps, came in to check pressures an front left low (clockwise circuit). The tyre had failed and was letting air out, so that was the end of my day!
Has anyone else seen this or should I just categorise this under bad luck?
Looks like a possible belt separation. Am i seeing the face of the tire has a swollen area?
If so, that is commonly caused by either a cut in the belts in that area from bead to sidewall to tread to other sidewall to the other bead or from striking an object at speed. I have seen a tiny cut in a sidewall cause a massive bulbous body in the tread.
It's good you were attentive to your tires and/or the feel of the car and didn't get hurt.
Unless I am missing something, this just looks like a puncture. There is no bulge indicating a casing or tread separation. That is a fairly large puncture. I would scrap the tire.
Looks like a possible belt separation. Am i seeing the face of the tire has a swollen area?
It's good you were attentive to your tires and/or the feel of the car and didn't get hurt.
No swollen area, just that damage. Yep, could have been a lot worse. Also lucky I had a spare to get home, I often don't take one!
Originally Posted by emilio700
Unless I am missing something, this just looks like a puncture. There is no bulge indicating a casing or tread separation. That is a fairly large puncture. I would scrap the tire.
I haven't seen a puncture like this before, but I can't see what else it could be. All the other punctures I've seen on track either have clear witness marks or something visibly still in there. Agreed, at least it happened on the first heat cycle so I can get away with only 1 tyre rather than needing a full set.
06-26-2019, 06:03 PM
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