I'm with yuza. Less grip is more fun on the 'street'.



Do I have a vagina? Possibly.





Edit to add actual substance to this post: My dirt-covered '95 OEM BBS wheels weigh 11.5lb. People recording 8.5lb either have a very funky set of scales, or have kerbed the wheel in question down to a 15x3.

 

I run 15x9 6ULs on the track and for autocross. My DD wheels are the 15x6 OEM BBS rims with 195/50R15 Star Specs. The latter provide ample grip for street use, even in a straight line with 300+ whp (the Quaife gearing helps in this respect). The wheels, being forged, are able to stand up to the beating provided by our pock-marked and cratered roads.

Horses for courses.

 

Perfect. I was thinking of getting some 205/50 star specs to go on my 15x7 6UL. But if the 195/50 is good enough for your setup on the street, it will be good enough for what I want to throw at it. Thanks!

 

Yes the 195/50/15 starspec is a great tire at a great price and the perfect size for that car and rim set up. The 195/50/15 kumho xs is just better in every way. Cheaper handles better an all around better tire . Trust me dont waiste your money on the starspec when you can get the kumho xs.

By the way we aree getting off topic here. This was the ultimate light rim money no object for the street what are you running post.

Focus!

 

This thread is terrible.

 

That's why I don't feel bad about the thread-jacking. This one should have died a long time ago.

 

Don't die yet...

Here's one more reference for wheels and tires:

Online Wheel & Tyre Fitment calculator. Offset, Tyre stretch and Rolling Radius calculator

It shows your current wheel and tire setup and compares it to an optional tire. As Savington said, more contact patch negates weight within reason, but obviously the wheel width must compliment the rim width for optimum performance.

...unless your goal is herra frush.

 

i was very happy with my tr c1m

 

It's not just the weight of the wheel, but also where the weight is in the wheel. I have used wheels made by Kodiak on my T1 car. The center sections are meaty/strong, but they have a very light forged rim section. Kodiak Racing Wheels - Custom lightweight race wheels for performance and racing

On the narrower rims that the miata uses, it might not make such a big deal; but for a 10 or 12 width, you could notice the difference in throttle response. For me, they made a great light track car wheel.

 

well, being as this thread was brought back up.... is the width the only way to tell the difference between the RPF1's and the konig wideopens???? BESIDES the enkei logos around the rim, and center caps???
say its a 15 inch rim like mine, is the only difference konig=8 inch, enkei=7 inch???

 

the offset too

 

cool... ill have to check.. i would like to know which wheels i have. lol

 

 

How shitty konigs are made.
RPF1's fur lyfe brah

 

Aparrently the new secret sauce in 195/50/15 tires is the r1r. The tread design has the grippy race rubber all the way tell its down too the cords and does not seem too heat cycle out . I may try these on my ultra light 15/7 rims. Looks as though it is waaaayy better then the kumho xs I've been running. They are not building any of the other sizes of R1R the same . They don't put the grippy race compound all the way through the tread to the cords like the 195 size .

 

Well, at least you tried to use "too" correctly. Keep it up, you lern engrish quik.

 

R1Rs dont heat cycle?




And, there's no proof of that claim either. And unless you're shaving tires, it doesn't really matter.

 

Alright then tell that to the guys that are doing the write ups on Grassroots Motorsports doing testing and winning and placing at national level events on 195/50/15's that they have run down to the cords. Nitto nto1 's seem to have the same characteristics.I did not say they don't heat cycle.! I said they don't heat cycle out there is a big difference. I run a lot of these tires and just trying to give an honest opinion of how they performed. If you want to spend more money to go slow that's your decision.

 

You can heat cycle out R1Rs, I've seen it. Overheat any street tire enough, and you can kill the compound.

And there's no proof other R1R sizes don't have the good stuff to the cords. Until every size is tested (and there's actual data, for what, 1/2 of the current sizes?) it is not a hard and fast rule.


Again, not a lot of benefit to having the sticky stuff below 2/32, unless you're shaving them, and have another set of tires for the wet.

 

No (meaning yes), but there is some anecdotal evidence from reputable sources that the 195/50 size of the R1R has certain magical properties.

The underlying theory (and this is only that, a theory) is that the 195 tire is cast with a greater ratio or surface rubber to carcass rubber, meaning that the "good stuff" extends further down into the tread.

Thus, in applications where tire life is limited by wear rather than heat-cycling, the 195 R1R should be advantageous over other sizes.

Source: Street Touring and Track Day Tire FAQ - UTQG 140+ | Facebook

If you don't know who Andy Hollis is, see here: Andy Hollis - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia (I tend to take his opinions more seriously than most.)