Needs more acetone

 

Wheel Tech
""Gen III can be identified by the VIA stamp near the valve hole.""



""The JWL standard (Japan Light Alloy Wheel standard) is a set of requirements for alloy wheels set by the Ministry of Land, Infrastructure, Transport and Tourism (Japan) that must be met for all passenger cars in Japan. The JWL mark, cast or forged into the wheel, indicates that the wheel has been self-certified by its manufacturer to meet the standard. There is a related standard, JWL-T, for truck and bus wheels.
The Vehicle Inspection Association of Japan (VIA) independently tests wheels for JWL or JWL-T compliance. Wheels that have been tested will bear the VIA mark in addition to the JWL mark.""

/threadjack over

 

I'm pretty sure everyone is out on the15x8 nickels, but if you can't wait, you might try checking with Savington and see if he still has any of the silver left. (disappointment aside)

https://www.miataturbo.net/trackspee...neering-74411/

 

There are some places that still have some silvers, but I'm sick of the nickels ALWAYS being sold out.

Anyway, here's a picture of the biggest crack for anybody that cares.

It really doesn't look that bad with that picture, but I tried.

 

Creative solution:

• Buy two silver 6UL's in whatever size you can find (used or new).
• Attend your cone chasing event.
• Buy four (or five) nickel 6UL's when they become available this winter.
• Sell the mismatched set of silvers to some Honda or Mini Cooper kid.
• ?????
• Profit.

 

That looks plenty bad. I need to clean up some used wheels I just bought and double check them before the next event.

 

All I can say is YIKES!! Agree with Scrappy. That looks bad.

 

Get 15x9 and be done with it ! Who really care about color..... function over form

 

I have a set of nickel 15x9s with my Hoosiers on them -- the paint lasted maybe a month before it started chipping off. I don't really care because they're race wheels, but I've heard from several other people that the nickel paint is the least durable. (I've also heard this has been improved since then, but that it's still something of an issue).

--Ian

 

Anyone else think this thread title is a bit misleading?

Not really fair to the 6ULs. More like 'I didn't listen to Emilio and fucked up my wheels' for a title.

Btw, just go 15x9.

 

15x9s are even more sold out.

And the thread title is pretty precise; my wheels, which are 6ULs, failed, and I need replacements. I take full responsibility in my original post.

 

No its not misleading. Wheels fail, it happens from cyclic loading. Its not like he's blaming it on emillio. I wouldnt blame the powder coat either, they were probably cracked under the paint already and it just hadn't cracked the paint yet. RE nickle 6ul, they're heavier that the other colors, why would you ever buy them, ounces are precious.

 

No, they weren't cracked under the paint. Sandblasting a lightweight race wheel is a no-no. The 4th wheel that did not get sandblasted but saw the same use was not cracked. If a wheel cracks, regardless of brand, you can almost always see it through the paint.

 

Not if its Adamantium based paint!

I'm hoping by this point there's a big warning on your site about a wheel's sensitivity to sandblasting and powder coating? I think you've had a few customers try one or both.

 

Says powder coat voids the warranty, but that's all I've seen so far.

Let's be clear here, I knew the risk when I had these sandblasted, the point of this thread is to help me figure out which wheels I want next. I guess I'm sort of guilty of a sensationalist title to try to get people in here, but it seems to have worked.

 

Ian, which generation were those?

 

They have the stamp next to the valve hole, so by the description earlier in this thread they must be 3rd gen.

They live a hard life -- cycled on and off the car at least once a month, and I'm probably not as careful about installing them as I could be. I don't blame anyone, they're race wheels and I'm OK with that.

That said, the Kosei K1s that served this duty before I bought the 6ULs, and the TD wheels with the street tires on them (which get swapped just as often, only the other way) don't have the same kinds of issues with paint chipping. I bought another set of 15x9 6ULs a couple months ago (these will probably be street wheels), and I went with silver this time, for cosmetic durability reasons.

--Ian

 

Should have galvanized them instead of blasting and painting. Set a new trend rather than repeating a failed old trend.

 

Whoops, misread.

 

Ive Aircraft strippered spraybombed wheels before, and the powder coating underneath was left untouched, and undamaged. Still might be a good option depending on price though.