Sean

iTrader: (12)

Yes you need that. Maybe it will help keep your balancer on.

Sean

iTrader: (12)

You defiantly need that. Maybe it will help your damper stay on.lol

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

Yeah you should get that. Maybe that's what it will take to keep that balancer in place.rofl

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Things just won't get better.

Today I drove my car to 2JZ's buddy's place- slosc3 to figure out what was wrong with my troubled ATI damper. The ride over was great- 17 psi is a lot of fun. I wouldn't say that it is ohfuckingshitthisisfast speed, but it's pretty damn quick.

So we tried to take it while still on the crankshaft and proceeded to destroy a T40 bit. Then we proceeded to destroy a T40plus bit. The source of the destruction was a flathead torx screw that goes into the face of the damper. It was supposed to be on with 15ftlbs of torque but even after we pulled the damper, it still wouldn't come off-- with an air gun.

So that was kind of a problem. We then pulled the whole damper off and found the source of the wobble:

Anything wrong with this picture?

This is the key:






Oh and you know the bolt that holds the damper onto the crank- that screws in? It was installed without a washer. So this happened:

You can see the stripped, hardened screws in there and the gouged out spot where the unwashered bolt ate into the damper.






So the damper is fucked. But fortunately, the crank looks ok:




I will have to get a new key, new crank bolt/washer, and have ATI get those hardened torx screws out, give me a new case, and possibly a new hub. Here is the back of the damper. Doesn't look that healthy either.



Here is my car, doing what it seems to do best this year. Waiting to be towed.



Urrggh

18psi

iTrader: (76)

wow. That is sad.

The monkey that installed it probably just banged that **** with a hammer til it was somewhat on then torqued the **** out of the crank bolt til it was forced into place

LOL I actually almost did the same thing when reinstalling mine. My dad saw me pick up a hammer, ran up to me and said: " If you bang it with a hammer I'll slap the **** out of you"

That key thing is very very easy to bend/deform.

You should set the shop that worked on your car on fire.

Slow_Sc3

I swear if the police ask me ill deny everything

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

For reference this is what the key is supposed to look like:



BTW regarding credit due I probably would not have found out the cause of the wobble nor figured out what was wrong when looking at the parts without miata 2jz's wrenching assistance and slow sc3's nice heated garage.

And, FWIW, the damper came off and went back on pretty nicely-- I think it took about 5 minutes tops each time and that was with a $18 damper puller from advance auto. The shop said it took them 3 hours... I guess if you have to flatten out the front of the key it is much harder :|

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

3 hours to replace a pulley? lol.

Sean

iTrader: (12)

I hope ATI can fix it we will put it back on and go really really fast.lol I would say it only took 3 hours because they were trying to flaten the hardened key to fit between the back of the pulley and the motor. Good news is it is fixable without major damage.

curly

iTrader: (25)

So what happened? I think that picture of the new key you posted is incorrect. It should have a bigger bevel to fit the slope of the crank. Unless that was just a generic picture. Think the shop put it in backwards?

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

OK I thought my 1.8 crank should have a beveled key too but...

look here?

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...cat=321&page=2

That page says bevel is for the 1.6 cranks..

I don't trust the website though.

Which key do I need? I gotta order this Monday.

curly

iTrader: (25)

As far as I can tell, if this is a picture of your crank nose:

Then you need this key:

Edit: I can't remember if mine (1.6) is just beveled, or if it curves exactly like the crank key. Crank key is curved like that since they use this:

In a mill to cut the key.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

OK, thanks.

I don't need to replace that bearing-plate that is behind the belt do I?

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

Ok so I just dropped the damper off at at the ATI star destroyer. They said that they will rebuild it with new elastomer, a new face plate, and balance it for $150. Minus the blood and tears, that is not too bad a financial hit.

For turnaround time, they actually said "ok give me about an hour". I was expecting 2 weeks.

Sean

iTrader: (12)

Hells yea maybe it can go back together next weekend. Let me know when it is done and you get a new key and bolt.

SLVMX5

iTrader: (1)

nice build!

leatherface24

iTrader: (10)

Geez dude that blows. I wanted one of these a while ago but they just look like an all around pain in the ***.

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

I think not if you know what you are doing.

I do not think it is much more complex than a stock damper. With the cheapo damper installer it seriously only took about 5-10 minutes to pull and press on the damper each time. Just don't bork the key. FWIW I bought two keys just in case

Who knows how much this actually does though? Personally I have my doubts about how much a forged crankshaft will vibrate or oscillate but race teams use them for their frequently rebuilt engines so that is my justification.

y8s

iTrader: (8)

I'm not sure I've ever heard such a poetic and concise expression of the art of what we do to our cars!

Faeflora

iTrader: (2)

ATI refurbed my damper and now it is aok.

After my car is running again, it will be time to revist my catch can. I currently have a can setup like this:

VC breather to can
can to pre-compressor intake pipe

With that setup and 20psi, oil is coming out of my oil fill cap seal so it is not venting enough.