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Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection

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Old 12-04-2012, 09:21 AM
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The crank is like 60* advanced, lol.
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Old 12-04-2012, 09:53 AM
  #662  
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Is it even worth doing a compression test on this car of should I just start taking it apart?
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:03 AM
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Note to self: Always check the balancer for slippage, always. Even after you time the car the first time.

Supermiata damper would have saved me $1000 in head work.
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:06 AM
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nothing can save you.
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:20 AM
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it sucks that the car broke, but the ***** was probably getting severed anyhow if we are being honest.
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:52 AM
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WTF does this mean?
Attached Thumbnails Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection-e5kf3.jpg  
Attached Files
File Type: msl
rpm.msl (94.1 KB, 105 views)
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Old 12-04-2012, 11:56 AM
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it got a false read on the crank.
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:01 PM
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Originally Posted by hustler
WTF does this mean?
I think the car is trying to tell you something...

Name: mean-to-hustler.jpg Views: 75 Size: 32.0 KB

PS: done bustin' bawls now, good luck getting your **** fixed
Attached Thumbnails Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection-mean-hustler.jpg  
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:09 PM
  #669  
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Originally Posted by Braineack
it got a false read on the crank.
A tooth should cross the sensor at TDE on the crank wheel, right? I guess I can play with the gap more but it's in spec.
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Old 12-04-2012, 12:42 PM
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anddddddddddddddddddd the new, OEM CKP sensor I bought from Mazda was bad.

Summary:
I timed the car at least 10-times, hacked my wiring harness, and finally bent all the valves in the head because of a $40 sensor.
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Old 12-04-2012, 02:26 PM
  #671  
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Sad compression #s. 160, 160, 160, 120. #4 goes back to 160psi when I add oil. I will leak it in the next couple weeks.
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Old 12-04-2012, 02:38 PM
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well, oil ain't going to make valves seal...
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
well, oil ain't going to make valves seal...
+1

#4 low indicates that engine has a lot of hours on it without a reroute. Standard wear pattern for street driven high mileage Miata with OEM cooling system.
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:23 PM
  #674  
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Originally Posted by emilio700
+1

#4 low indicates that engine has a lot of hours on it without a reroute. Standard wear pattern for street driven high mileage Miata with OEM cooling system.
This engine probably has 6-7 days at the track and 5k miles on it total since built.
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:25 PM
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Email me your current .msq.
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:28 PM
  #676  
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Originally Posted by Reverant
Email me your current .msq.
Tach works now. I drove around for about an hour and it started working. Still want the MSQ?
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Old 12-04-2012, 03:39 PM
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Yes.
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Old 12-04-2012, 07:25 PM
  #678  
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Originally Posted by hustler
Tach works now. I drove around for about an hour and it started working. Still want the MSQ?
Did the 1k resistor work?
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:01 PM
  #679  
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So, right now I'm thinking leak and bore scope the engine next week.

Then, since the rings are bad:
send the bottom to the local machine shop
cut-down pistons down on the exhaust side to get closer to 11.0 and help add some mechanical octane and burn duration
Put MSM cam in the SS valved head
Super(duper)Miata damper
boom
headshot

The other option is a VVT engine with rods

Thoughts on my stupidity?
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Old 12-04-2012, 08:01 PM
  #680  
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Originally Posted by shuiend
Did the 1k resistor work?
Never got one because it started working and I've become ill, probably from huffing exhaust for two days.
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