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Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection

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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 09:21 AM
  #661  
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The crank is like 60* advanced, lol.
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 09:53 AM
  #662  
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Is it even worth doing a compression test on this car of should I just start taking it apart?
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 11:03 AM
  #663  
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Note to self: Always check the balancer for slippage, always. Even after you time the car the first time.

Supermiata damper would have saved me $1000 in head work.
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 11:06 AM
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nothing can save you.
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 11:20 AM
  #665  
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it sucks that the car broke, but the ***** was probably getting severed anyhow if we are being honest.
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 11:52 AM
  #666  
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WTF does this mean?
Attached Thumbnails Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection-e5kf3.jpg  
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 11:56 AM
  #667  
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it got a false read on the crank.
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 12:01 PM
  #668  
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Originally Posted by hustler
WTF does this mean?
I think the car is trying to tell you something...

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PS: done bustin' bawls now, good luck getting your **** fixed
Attached Thumbnails Hustler's build thread 2.0, the natural aspiration connection-mean-hustler.jpg  
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 12:09 PM
  #669  
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Originally Posted by Braineack
it got a false read on the crank.
A tooth should cross the sensor at TDE on the crank wheel, right? I guess I can play with the gap more but it's in spec.
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 12:42 PM
  #670  
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anddddddddddddddddddd the new, OEM CKP sensor I bought from Mazda was bad.

Summary:
I timed the car at least 10-times, hacked my wiring harness, and finally bent all the valves in the head because of a $40 sensor.
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 02:26 PM
  #671  
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Sad compression #s. 160, 160, 160, 120. #4 goes back to 160psi when I add oil. I will leak it in the next couple weeks.
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 02:38 PM
  #672  
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well, oil ain't going to make valves seal...
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Braineack
well, oil ain't going to make valves seal...
+1

#4 low indicates that engine has a lot of hours on it without a reroute. Standard wear pattern for street driven high mileage Miata with OEM cooling system.
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Old Dec 4, 2012 | 03:23 PM
  #674  
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Originally Posted by emilio700
+1

#4 low indicates that engine has a lot of hours on it without a reroute. Standard wear pattern for street driven high mileage Miata with OEM cooling system.
This engine probably has 6-7 days at the track and 5k miles on it total since built.
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 03:25 PM
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Email me your current .msq.
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 03:28 PM
  #676  
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Originally Posted by Reverant
Email me your current .msq.
Tach works now. I drove around for about an hour and it started working. Still want the MSQ?
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 03:39 PM
  #677  
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Yes.
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 07:25 PM
  #678  
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Originally Posted by hustler
Tach works now. I drove around for about an hour and it started working. Still want the MSQ?
Did the 1k resistor work?
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 08:01 PM
  #679  
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So, right now I'm thinking leak and bore scope the engine next week.

Then, since the rings are bad:
send the bottom to the local machine shop
cut-down pistons down on the exhaust side to get closer to 11.0 and help add some mechanical octane and burn duration
Put MSM cam in the SS valved head
Super(duper)Miata damper
boom
headshot

The other option is a VVT engine with rods

Thoughts on my stupidity?
Old Dec 4, 2012 | 08:01 PM
  #680  
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Originally Posted by shuiend
Did the 1k resistor work?
Never got one because it started working and I've become ill, probably from huffing exhaust for two days.



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