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Old 06-24-2014, 11:32 PM   #41
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Beats the hell out of me. I wish I had a personal editor more often, I'd get a lot more done!
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Old 06-24-2014, 11:57 PM   #42
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I recently bought a VERY simmalier looking manifold from SixShooter. It's new but has been passed around a few times before I got it, and I don't know anything about it beyond how well built it is. I wonder if anybody know's where these came from?

I'd certainly love to find out.

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Originally Posted by hi_im_sean View Post
i just happened to check mine for the first time yesterday and it read the exact same- 96kpa

i see my wiring offer is too late :(

lookin good otherwise

i got my rx8 injector from "TLF performance", cleaned and flowed for like $100 on ebay
TLF Performance Parts: Mazda 2004-08 RX-8 1.3L
Per injector?


So update: MS3X is in. But not without it's problems.

I adjusted the idle screw and can idle to about 1350 now. However, the idle duty still seems to be way off. If i drive for a bit, and come to a stop, it starts idling at around 300rpm, and slowly creeps back up. I know I can change the PID factor to increase the rate at which it creeps back up, but I need to figure out why it's starting so low to begin with.

I cannot go past 4500 rpm. If i do, tach freaks, alternator cuts off, and it's like i'm getting fuel cut. As best I've read so far, I believe it's just the pot setting on the MS3X. Planning to turn it three turns clockwise tomorrow when I have time to unmount my MS and get to it and see if that fixes it. I'll just stay under 4500 rpm until then, I can still go 80 :P

Lastly, at least out of what I've noticed so far, the radiator fans never seem to turn off. TunerStudio indicates they should be off, yet they are running. Haven't done much research into this yet, and will look at it further in the coming days. I figure the rad fans running can't hurt? lol

Here is a screenshot of the signal loss. The msl file is huge, and i'm tired and didn't feel like opening it in excel and cropping out a section. If the resistor doesn't fix it I'll post more details. lol
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Old 06-25-2014, 12:05 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schuyler View Post
I'd certainly love to find out.



Per injector?

for 4. and i just found my receipt, my memory sucks sometimes. $151.70 to my door. it seems they "custom make" these, im not sure what that means exactly. they are grey instead of yellow and the part number on the bodies are milled off. not sure if this is an indication of anything untrustworthy, just a heads up.
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Old 06-25-2014, 12:10 AM   #44
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Old 06-27-2014, 06:26 PM   #45
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Short update:

Idle Duty issue fixed.
Fan Issue Fixed.
TS and MLV purchased.
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Old 06-29-2014, 10:02 PM   #46
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This update is not turbo related, but.

Yesterday:
Mousetrap removed.
BossFrog Clearview installed (+ harness bar and SFI padding).
Warrantied Robbin's soft top installed.

Today:
Many beers were drank.

Blurry picture, but: They always told me the first cut would be the easiest...


Bar installed


Top installed (Was too tired to take the picture with the others the night before after finishing the top)


EDIT: and before anyone points it out, I'm waiting on the tire shop to reopen tomorrow so I can yell at them for mounting one of my directional tires backwards. Looks like they just dismounted it and put it right back on.

Bonus points to whoever knows what this tool does:
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Old 06-30-2014, 11:37 PM   #47
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i absolutely hate extracting broken taps, i usually take extreme care not to break them to begin with but it still happens. how did you break one that big?
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Old 07-01-2014, 12:02 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hi_im_sean View Post
i absolutely hate extracting broken taps, i usually take extreme care not to break them to begin with but it still happens. how did you break one that big?
Oh I didn't even use a tap that day. The guy who lets me use his personal shop (so greatful to have access to a shop with a lift and heat/ac to work in, not to mention any tool/machine i could ever possible need and many more than that) likes to occasionally question me on tools he has and thinks will stump me. This one certainly did, I never managed to guess it. Figured I'd see who could figure this one out on here :P Congrats lol


Did my first tuning today with a friend of mine giving me a hand. We only touched AFR and VE, and dialed the spark table back a little bit because it seemed to have a lot of timing in a few places. Anyone want to glance at it and tell me whether I'm doing anything dangerous? Listing my cranking and priming tables for advice as well. First starting attempt in the morning does NOT like to start. Though I park it at work at 7:00am and it fires right up at 5:30pm.






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Old 07-01-2014, 01:43 AM   #49
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I was going to say, that right thar is the most useless tool in the world.

**** went as follows:

1. break tap.
2. break broken tap extractor tool.
3. cut fingers down for next attempt.
4. EDM out tap.
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Old 07-17-2014, 09:09 AM   #50
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My friend was running a compression test on his eclipse last night before he goes back to full boost, so we went ahead and did the miata while we were at it. Here are the numbers with a very old battery, but 1 and 4 were the same, so I think they should be decently accurate.

1 - 200
2 - 180
3 - 185
4 - 200

All within 10% of one another (barely), but from what I've read these numbers aren't bad.

Also, pic of the eclipse. Every time I go over and work on my car or his, I'm reminded his will always be bigger than mine :(. Holset HX35.

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Old 07-17-2014, 09:15 AM   #51
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And it will also always be front wheel drive.
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:08 PM   #52
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GSX is AWD. Dunno if that's a GSX though.
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:19 PM   #53
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If it's born FWD, at heart it will always be FWD, no matter what you do to it.
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:20 PM   #54
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Yea, but he has rusty shock towers...
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Old 07-17-2014, 01:47 PM   #55
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Weight reduction bro.
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:00 PM   #56
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FWD Eclipse, with a Neon motor. Not even a 4g63. Definitely built for big power, but probably doesn't go anywhere until 4th gear.
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Old 07-17-2014, 03:05 PM   #57
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Originally Posted by duffbuster243 View Post
FWD Eclipse, with a Neon motor. Not even a 4g63. Definitely built for big power, but probably doesn't go anywhere until 4th gear.
Built Neon motor and trans, with a 3.53 rear end. Full boost is at like 4200rpm. Something like 23psi atm I believe. Hasn't been to the dyno in a while.
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Old 07-21-2014, 06:46 PM   #58
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So, radiator is leaking and probably needs to be replaced soon. Still debating which route to go, as I don't feel like spending $350-400 on a nice aluminum koyo or anything of that nature/price range.

Current options I'm mulling over are:

Just throw another oem one. $50. Bam. Done.
Koyo Radiator with the plastic tanks. Posts here seemed to indicate this was a better alternative to the OEM one, and the extra money was worth it. ~$100.

Ebay aluminum special. $125 or so.

Or i can just wait until this minor, only noticed it because there was some coolant in the foam, leak becomes major, thus taking the patented "yolo" approach.

Decisions decisions.
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Old 07-21-2014, 07:03 PM   #59
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I don't know what the MazdaSpeed Motorsports price is, but Keith of Flyin' Miata claims that the Mazdaspeed radiator has much better capacity than the other NB units. May be a cheap way to get that little extra.

Last edited by DNMakinson; 07-21-2014 at 08:16 PM. Reason: Fixed MazdaSpeed Motorsports
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Old 07-21-2014, 07:49 PM   #60
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Quote:
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Built Neon motor and trans, with a 3.53 rear end.
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