muoto

copied from mx5nutz.com:

Here’s my trackday IAT logs for past 4 years:
MP62 Coldside without any "charge cooler" = +120-150°C
MP62 Coldside with e-cool "fuel inj. cooler" = +60-90°C
MP62 Coldside with two water inj. nozzles = +50-70°C
(all these were 10-14psi)

GT2560 turbo @16psi and big FMIC = +140°C before IC and +25-30°C after (ambient +20°C)

And I have to add. With 98RON fuel it was pinging every time IAT gone over +70°C. Basically all the time in track. street driving was fine. With E85 FFS kit was finally "trackable"

muoto

I’m so fed up with the constant misfire that I’m ordering LS2 truck coils next. Spark plug gap is now .023 and its still misfires at 16psi. Seems that Toyota COPs just aren’t enough for E85 :/

18psi

iTrader: (76)

What boost level? And what spark plugs?


I was at 16psi on NGK IR's and totally fine. Even when I tried 18psi for a little while.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

It really depends on the specific COPs you have. I too had misfires.

LS2/truck coils are super-mega-awesome win and barely any more expensive than COPs to setup.

muoto

It starts misfiring above 15psi. Have tested it with Iridium 7’s, NGK BKR6E and NGK BKR7E plugs. My Toyota COPS are part.no. 90919-02239

Problem is only with E85

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

I'd guess the spark is being quenched by the extra amount of fuel required when using E85 to hit the same AFR.

Awesome setup, I wish I could ape it. I'm just using something similar to your first setup, it's no power monster, but it suits me OK.

soviet

iTrader: (10)

Misfires are caused by spark not being powerful enough to arc across the gap. Air/fuel mixture is an insulator. Compressed air/fuel mixture is more of an insulator. Compressed air/E85 mixture is, apparently, even more of an insulator.

Boost, compression ratio, amount and type of fuel are all factors. And quality of rings, too.

Can't just say "my COPs were fine at 15psi"....

muoto

Something broke
I did 5th gear WOT run and after that I noticed that car doesn’t pull anymore. Feels like something retard my ignition -20deg backwards. Drove home, remove CAS sensor and clean it, put it back and everything was fine again. Did quick test run around the block and suddenly car dies and won’t start up again.


- has spark
- has fuel
- adaptronic sees CAS and crank sensors.

sturovo

any luck sorting this? I am curious what it could be.
Do you have a stock timing wheel /sensor?
It does sound that timing is off. I guess seeing that it doesn't start you cant try a timing light..

muoto

You’re right it sounds like timing is off. But I’m sure it isn’t. At least cam pulleys are in line.

Stock timing wheel and sensors.

I’m sure it’s something to do with the CAS sensor in the intake cam. I’ll have to buy new one and see


edit: I was right. It was something to do with triggers. Only it was Crank trigger not the Cam one.


yeah. crank bolt has loosen up again. F*ck! second time already this year

muoto

Little update:




Little bit of JB weld to my crank key way and car was running fine again. Old damper pulley looks like it has seen better days so I’m probably get 949's SuperMiata damper next year




Also my new seats arrive. Bride Zeta typeS. Now only thing I need is real roll bars and Takata harness.


Next year I’m focusing more to TimeAttack. My part list to next season:
- rollbar of course
- 6UL 15x9 wheels with some TW140 rubber (my timeattack class limit treadwear to 140)
- Stiffer coilover springs. Moving from 450/350 to 700/400
- 949 Racing SuperMiata Sway Bar kit
- 949 Racing SuperMiata harmonic damper
- TSE 11.75" brake kit
- Honda Integra Type-R intake manifold
- LS2 Truck ign. coils

Pen2_the_penguin

iTrader: (4)

Damn im loving this car, but that loose bolt really fudged up that key way. How did the timing pulley fair after that?

muoto

Thanks. Timing pulley sits just fine and timing is what is should be. There’s still that little 0.01" gap between key and timing pulley, don’t know if I should change the timing pulley or not...

muoto

oh.. what do we have here...


785$ New GT2871r 56 trim, 0.64 A/R. I went with that because EFR 6758 cost here 1850$









Bride seats sits nice and low. I modified the stock seat rails to fit Bride side brackets. They sit about inch from the floor.

sturovo

Cool brake reservoir sock! This car will be a monster once you get through your to do list.

Just curious, which roll bar do yo plan to use? TRlane, Hard dog, custom?

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

I personally like seeing my brake fluid level, much more than slopping up the fluid that will never spill on the track like most muscle cars...

muoto

Thanks. It feels like a monster now with ~300whp. Can’t wait to drive it with 330-350whp
I have been looking Hard dog roll bars. There’s one for sale in UK but due the size of it it’s really pain to get it in here to Finland.


I’m not going to leave it there




ARTech ftw. Around 10-20 track weekends and still 100% crack free


"Theres so much room for activities!"


Left one 1000miles with gasoline. Right one 10 000miles with E85


From outside there isn’t so much difference between 2560 and 2871...

I’ve been using 0.8mm (0.03") oil restrictor with the old 2560. I’m going to use that with the 2871 too.

What kind a locking nuts do you guys recommend? I already have Inconel studs there

muoto

ported v-band adapter


also I fu*k up one of my Inconel studs. Cost 35$/piece from Begi

Miater

How did you manage to shear the threads?

muoto

With mad skills