Leafy

iTrader: (1)

flanged to -6AN? What kind of flange. Really you should just flare them

mcmaster
50715K635
50715K627

Aeroquip
FBM2755

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Yeah. My idea was to flare them, but i don't see any fittings to -6an.
A reducer would would, but it's just another fitting to have to attach.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

You only need the 3 parts I linked. Its less pieces than the compressions fittings.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

I don't even think this is allowed.

EO2K

iTrader: (37)

Fireindc

iTrader: (13)

Nice 6ul's, bro.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

This is becoming more of a pain in the ---- than it's worth.

1. I put my injectors in and they leak like a bitch. When i put them into the rail It was like a hotdog down a hallway. The fit into the FM rail was a bit more "loose" than the OEM rail.

2. This stupid piece of ebay trash has no real thread pitch and if the bottom is flared it is to deep for a plug to reach bottom and touch the sealing surface. Plus i think it was just leaking past the stupid o-ring anyway. Now i need to figure out how to block this stupid FPR port. Stupid stupid stupid just like me.


3. This is where i'm at with the sleeve / nut style setup. Obviously i can't get the sleeve to slide down any further, resulting in me not being able to even flare it.


4. No one anywhere even near me sells a 37* flare tool, i thought i had one at work, it's 45*.

5. I bought warm beer and am now in the waiting process while it chills, so i can't even drink.

My feels right now.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

Diggin the fuel setup, sorry for your issues and sadcat feels :(

FAB

iTrader: (4)

Not awesome. Have you thought about tapping the FPR port and just threading a plug in it? Go get some cold beer - You'll drink the warm ones when you're done.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

That was my first thought. Maybe tap it NPT and use a plug, or straight thread and a gasketed bolt to plug it just like on the FPR. My second option was to weld it, though that could turn ugly.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to flare the hardlines in the bay? My neighbor had a smaller 37* flare tool but even that was to big and bulky.

richyvrlimited

iTrader: (1)

If you've any plumbing gear handy, (I.e. a blowtorch, flux and solder), it's very easy to solder a brass barb into the FPR hole.

I've done that a few times in the past.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

So 5/16th sleeve and nut fittings don't fit the 8mm fuel line + coating. I could spend all day outside sanding down the coating or ask you guys if you know of any 8mm sleeves?
I can't even find one and if i did i doubt i'll find it in aluminum.

I am REALLY thinking about buying an 8mm drill bit or probably 21/64", chucking the sleeve in a lathe and honing it out ever so slightly. Or just drill it somehow. Any reason this wouldn't work?

I can get the sleeve started on the tube, but it's just a cunthair to small.

shivgtr

As a new Turbo Miata owner with the a similar FM setup as you, this thread has been a fantastic read. I'm currently snowed in (sigh...michigan), so enjoyed this thread quite a bit. I notice you're from the Detroit area. I'd like to buy you a beer, and hopefully have you drive my car (not as the same time haha). I'd love to hear what you'd think.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Made a little progress today.

Did an oil change.
Tapped the FPR port on the rail, put a NPT plug in it.
Finished putting the lines on and checked for leaks.
It leaks. Just the nut and tube on one of the fuel lines. I think i flared it to much. I did one then researched, saw the tube is supposed to be flush with the top of the flare tool. I was a little to far past. I thought i saw a hairline crack but put it together anyway.
Also the NPT plug leaked a tiny bit, i may try some type of pipe dope on it.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

First impressions.

Fitment of the reservoir, pump, motor on the carrying case blows.
Fittings leak(only major disappointment).
Came in the mail with a busted foot.
Even after bleeding the air out of the system, i think there is still air in the system.
The schrader valve leaks a shitload of air unless the cap is on and very tight. Still all the air leaks out overnight requiring an air pump to prime it back to 50psi.(maybe this is normal)
Pulling the hydraulic lines apart from eachother resulted in ripping the outer casing.

So i may be buying new quick disconnects. We have some at work that we use on a piece of equipment that i don't remember leaks as much. Or maybe not, i might just deal with it. It actually leaks more when connected back together.


I've got it under the red car now. I'm not sure how well it will do when sitting on the locks for months on end, but we'll see.

For as much as i paid for it, i'm not going to complain.

Chilicharger665

iTrader: (2)

Did you pay $979 to FM for these or even less? Mine should be here next week from them. I am not going to be happy at all if a brand-new item leaks and has shitty fittings.

Leafy

iTrader: (1)

Shouldnt leak while in operation, I'd contact the manufacturer about that one. Leaking a bit when you disconnect the fittings is normal and why it only costs a grand and not $1500.

Erat

iTrader: (5)

Yeah, ALL quick connect disconnects drip a little on disconnect, nothing you can do about that. The issue comes into play when reconnecting. The lines retain a slight bit of pressure and when connected you get the spillage.

Other than that, i'm really happy. I look forward to using it more.

turbofan

iTrader: (1)

So the connections leak when connecting and disconnecting, but not while the lift is in operation?

Erat

iTrader: (5)

No, not at all.