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Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
It's not even bad, the 01 is way worse.
Anyway, i can't get the diff apart. I'm guessing i had to take the nut off where the driveshaft is. Well, now that's impossible and i really don't care. Trust me when i tell you, it sounds like a glass jar of marbles when rolled around.
When mine broke it was the best launch I had. The car just hooked up great but it let go just before I shifted to 2nd. I would never wheel hop in the burnout, only on the launch.
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
This just showed up to work Wednesday.
I'm heading out to the garage now to pull the 5 speed and install the 6 speed. Then this. I'll have to figure out what i'm doing with all the broken subframe bracing bolts too.
I'm so excited. 6 speed + 3.636 rear end should be an absolute riot. I may need to go bigger turbo.
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Annnnd this is as far as i got today.
Managed to make a mess.
Once i got the trans off i smelt the clutch and it does not smell good after the rear end locking up. I hope it didn't die. I'll take the pressure plate off tomorrow morning, or maybe later tonight if i get a little motivation. I have to find my clutch tool first before i take it apart.
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Well... I can't even really be mad. I had a feeling when the rear end locked up the clutch took the punishment.
Looks like i'm hitting up FM Monday morning for a new unit. I feel like this one would be fine, but i don't want to take the chance with better gearing and turning it up to 11.
The question is, do i just resurface the flywheel or cough up the dough for a lightened unit. Is anyone even using one? I always heard it wasn't worth the money and the heavier flywheel was better for turbo?
So, the springs in the disc spin around. I don't remember ever seeing that before. Also, the plastic piece in the center is all busted to hell, you can even see pieces missing. I don't think that's much of a big deal though.
FW even has some very small micro cracks in the surface. :(
I'm not an expert in metallurgy, but every OEM flywheel I've seen has similar micro-fissures. Armchair physicsts will note that a heavier flywheel maintains engine momentum between shifts, and racer b0yz clamor over rotational mass savings. Who knows which is better though.
Last edited by mazda/nissan; 11-26-2016 at 11:35 AM.
Reason: F me right in da azhole
My local machine shop did mine for $50, everything is expensive around here.
The machinist said if it hasn't been turned before he could do it. I would at least see if a good local machine shop thinks they can resurface it or not.
That being said I run a light weight unit with my turbo and I am totally happy with it. Not a real FM flywheel though, a cheap exedy. It is what was in there.
Location: Detroit (the part with no rules or laws)
Posts: 5,677
Total Cats: 800
Having a difficult time removing the flywheel. Thankfully I got in on some good discounts for tools. I'm just going to have it resurfaced.
Ordered a new clutch.
From what I understand we are only able to use two starter bolts. Are we all just omitting the metal spacer as well?
NA, turbo, or gay boosted... you will never take my lightweight FW from me. Sub 9lbs or GTFO.
9lb aluminum flywheel & SuperMiata Damper 300hp built motor club here. My only complaint is the noises that my 6 speed makes on decel, its actually a bit unnerving.
Now if only I could find one of those Protege BP cranks that weights 10~12lbs less than the Miata BP crank and could afford a rebuild with a set of the Carrillo A beams that save ~120g per rod over the stockers...
11-09-2016, 04:36 PM
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