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Old 08-26-2015, 01:57 PM   #281
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Running a large single fan as a two speed is an option using an older Volvo fan control arrangement with a resistor (or pwm if you're fancy.) I'll use a 100 watt .33 ohm resistor to drop the speed on the low speed trigger. I've tried it out on the bench and that drops the speed 50% or less for my 3000cfm Spal. I ran the same fan before (no shroud) at full power and its on/off cycle was about 10 seconds on the hottest day, stopped after multiple boosted runs.
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Old 08-26-2015, 04:07 PM   #282
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Which spal are you running? Is it shrouded at all, or just pushed up against the radiator?
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Old 08-26-2015, 04:45 PM   #283
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Don't recall the model number and can't find one on it. I thought it was the highest cfm (3000) straight blade Spal made at the time. Complete overkill but seemed like a good idea at the time. No shroud. I mounted weather stripping to fan frame and then mounted the fan to the top flange (see pic) on the aluminum radiator I use (hot rod Ford style). Created an excellent seal and protection for the radiator. I probably put 4k miles on it like that and it was the same when removed.

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Old 09-02-2015, 08:28 AM   #284
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Hi, finally made it to the end Ready to do this all over again with me? lulz
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Old 09-02-2015, 09:36 AM   #285
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Yea dude, let's get it goin'.

As far as my car goes, I just have to: tighten some fittings, drill some holes, cut some hood, redo some piping, throw in the A/C compressor, figure out VVT settings and tables since it was empty, retune, and get it ready for winter and rust repair.

Or just sell it; by which I mean replace the fuel system with new lines and a flex sensor, get a new rear and, and fatter tires.

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Old 09-12-2015, 03:50 PM   #286
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Rain ruined my plans for the weekend. Was going to tend to some sensors and put together a remote filter relocation setup which I'll then try to use with an oil cooler.

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Old 10-13-2015, 11:21 AM   #287
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Ok, starting this thing back up.

I really need to scope out the oil leak coming from a oil pressure sender. I can see where it's leaking. I can feel where it's leaking. But the terminals are pointed upward toward the coolant lines to the water heater, and it's just really really difficult for me to reach short of removing the squaretop.

I have almost everything ready to go to switch coil setups to the LS2/7 coil packs. In the LSx coil megathread, folks have used stock wires but the terminal ends are completely different. The terminals do not even contact the leads on the coil side so there is no 'clipped in' feeling. It's a different style altogether so I think, while yes, the spark will jump the gap because of the voltage potential, I'd rather just have the appropriate ends so these will have to be ordered before running them.

I need to install hood vents. I have them sitting pretty and powder coated, but just haven't had time or facility to do so. I think that'd help greatly with cooling. I also want to rework the intercooler piping through the fender so that might happen this weekend. Does anyone have a good way to clean out an intercooler? Just a bunch or break cleaner or dump some other solvent like acetone in there and let it flash out?

There was one issue where my injector fuse kept blowing. I found where it was shorting, and it's the power from the cam position sensor. What is even worse, is the sensor was loose because the bolt was backing out slowly.

I am about to buy 3.63 ring and pinion and am wondering if I should just have the dealer remove my diff and rebuild. I have nowhere to do this myself. Also wondering if there is any benefit to getting an aftermarket diff versus sourcing another Torsen as a donor.

Also looking at updating my fuel system to add Flex capabilities. But I think I'll need to add new wheels and tires to this idea as third gear is already a bit squirelly.

Trying to figure out how to properly sound deaden the car, what the strategic locations are. 3400 RPM is loud as hell. This just happens to be the sweet spot to cruise on highway. Might try to throw the resonator back in in place of the cat. My car doesn't need emissions inspection anymore, but I don't know which is louder. Metal substrate cat or resonator.

Hopefully more updates and pictures soon. I want to get a lot of stuff done before winter.

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Old 10-13-2015, 01:32 PM   #288
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Quote:
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix View Post
Ok, starting this thing back up.


These are just my opinions, but I'll play. Remember I'm no expert.

Quote:
Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix View Post
I really need to scope out the oil leak coming from a oil pressure sender. I can see where it's leaking. I can feel where it's leaking. But the terminals are pointed upward toward the coolant lines to the water heater, and it's just really really difficult for me to reach short of removing the squaretop.
Unless you plan to remove the engine I'm not sure what to do here. I can't think of a good option for you :(

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I have almost everything ready to go to switch coil setups to the LS2/7 coil packs. In the LSx coil megathread, folks have used stock wires but the terminal ends are completely different. The terminals do not even contact the leads on the coil side so there is no 'clipped in' feeling. It's a different style altogether so I think, while yes, the spark will jump the gap because of the voltage potential, I'd rather just have the appropriate ends so these will have to be ordered before running them.
I believe someone posted up a part number for crimp on ends for those coils? Slice off the old ones, crimp on the new ones and go. I've also seen guys pinch the contacts inside the boot to make them bite, but that seems really ghetto to me. I know somewhere buried here on MT there are a set of part numbers for making completely custom wire sets, but of course I can't find it at the moment.

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Does anyone have a good way to clean out an intercooler? Just a bunch or break cleaner or dump some other solvent like acetone in there and let it flash out?
Inside? How bad is it? When I flushed my Precision 600 I got a gallon of acetone, dumped some in, shook it around, dumped it out. Repeat as needed.

Quote:
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There was one issue where my injector fuse kept blowing. I found where it was shorting, and it's the power from the cam position sensor. What is even worse, is the sensor was loose because the bolt was backing out slowly.
At least you found it, that would make for a bad day.

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I am about to buy 3.63 ring and pinion and am wondering if I should just have the dealer remove my diff and rebuild. I have nowhere to do this myself. Also wondering if there is any benefit to getting an aftermarket diff versus sourcing another Torsen as a donor.
The dealer will probably just farm it out to another shop that specializes in this stuff. Unless the dealer has a super competent guy, it might be worth trying to find a local shop who can do this kind of work yourself. I lucked out and bought my 3.63 already mounted up on an OEM torsen and its been working great. I think Kaaz and OSGiken make diffs for the 1.8 but they are BIG money and I've never seen anyone buy one for anything other than a big money racecar. 949 has the OSG listed last time I checked.

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Also looking at updating my fuel system to add Flex capabilities. But I think I'll need to add new wheels and tires to this idea as third gear is already a bit squirelly.
Heh, my car is the same way. 1st and 2nd are a joke and 3rd struggles to hook up. You are going to LOVE the 3.63s, better tires will also help. Watch the wheel hop thouth.

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Trying to figure out how to properly sound deaden the car, what the strategic locations are. 3400 RPM is loud as hell. This just happens to be the sweet spot to cruise on highway. Might try to throw the resonator back in in place of the cat. My car doesn't need emissions inspection anymore, but I don't know which is louder. Metal substrate cat or resonator.
What muffler? If you can fit it in there, the Vibrant 17950 is the biggest sumbitch resonator I could find and it seems to work fabulously. Super high quality part too, much better than the Magnaflow ones I ordered and returned. Its positioned just to the rear of where my stock cat was located.

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Hopefully more updates and pictures soon. I want to get a lot of stuff done before winter.
Godspeed sir! I look forward to the updates!
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Old 10-13-2015, 02:53 PM   #289
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I might try to tackle the oil pressure sender leak this weekend. If not, I'll just wait till I pull the intake manifold off when revamping fuel system.

I ordered some terminals from summit, I hope it's the right version, but we'll see. It looks like they only claim that their 45 boots fit the ls coils, but I ordered some straights and will retain the 90's that are on the stock wires. I just matched up the terminals to that shown in the product image for that part number. It looks like the spring loops are a tighter radius which definitely resemble the fitment type for the coils. I'll have to learn how to build and crimp these, hopefully before this weekend. Will re-read dwell values to use.

Well it looks like my air filter placement is garbage until I re route the charge piping. So the filter heated up and the turbo sucked all the oil out of the element. That and I think it's taking on oil vapor from the driver side crank case vent as I see it condensing a bit more around the engine bay now that it's cooling down outside. Perhaps the hood vents in conjunction with some fancy future fab work to find a new home for an AEM dry filter will help mitigate this. Or a catch can. (Speaking of which PCV catch can->VTA is bone dry). I'll try the acetone trick. Wouldn't hurt.





I'm walking distance to Rosenthal. But perhaps I should investigate diff shops in the area. I'd really like the longer gearing. I was looking at the OSGiken but am having a bit of a dilemma justifying the cost. Do I go for it, and wonder if I'll die in the rain/snow when or just use a torsen donor and risk spending all that labor for a diff that performs - just well. Should I just save a lot of cost and try to be happy with a 3.9, or will spending this money on a 3.63 torsen really be worthwhile if not coupling it with a sexier diff.


I already know that the power it's pushing is enough to make me nervous when driving fast. I feel that even after changing the suspension and a fresh alignment, the car feels like a roller skate. I am thinking more seriously about a diffuser up front but have all these other projects to complete before I cover it all up. That and my fab skills are pretty lame.

Currently I have a Magnaflow that Abe/Artech welded up for his whole EFR 3" exhaust system. I have an alternate cat pipe with a maganflow resonator, but I don't recall which was louder. I am skeptical of available space given the FM butterfly brace down there. Maybe I should just have a shop hack the existing midpipe to include the resonator. The vibrant one does look sexy indeed, but real-estate is tough down there.
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Old 10-13-2015, 07:03 PM   #290
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cat will always be quieter than resonator
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Old 10-13-2015, 08:00 PM   #291
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There are drivetrain shops in your area. You just need to find them. Pop the axles out of the carrier and unbolt the chunk from the carrier. Take it to a shop with a new distance piece from Rosenthal and a new pinion seal and let them set it up.
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Old 10-15-2015, 10:04 PM   #292
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So another terrifying thing happened aside from last weekend being stranded on a busy bridge with no breakdown Lane due to a short from my cam sensor blowing out the injector fuse.... I had also found that the cam sensor itself had rattled loose, but luckily was able to simply tighten the bolt back down.

Today I drove and noticed my oil pressure at about 15psi. It couldn't have been more than aa couple minutes when it happened but I delicately drove it (since it was stop and go traffic) to the closest gas station. Oil was low so I added a quart. No change. I was about to call AAA to tow it home thinking it was a pressure relief valve being stuck when I noticed the VVT solenoid popped out. Luckily I had a spare 10mm bolt on hand and all was fixed.

I'm paranoid now if there was damage done to the engine. Am I on borrowed time or is there a way to check? Why is my motor rattling itself to pieces?
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Old 10-23-2015, 09:33 PM   #293
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Last weekend Downmented loaned me some space to install some hood vents. I should have worn ear protection. I need to figure out how to duct things or just suck it up and ditch the A/C condenser. Last thing is to swap in a 185F thermostat and hopefully my fans will stop cycling.


I had to pull the oil warmer off to be able to remove one of the two oil pressure senders. I cleaned and teflon taped them then snugged them back hardcorezorzor. Crossing fingers for no more leak!

Hopefully tomorrow I'll finally try to reroute the charge piping through the fender. This should allow more space for the A/C compressor. But I'm still a bit out of luck when it comes to finding a new route for the filter.
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Old 10-23-2015, 09:37 PM   #294
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Should have used the yellow pipe paste stuff. The Teflon tape can gum up the oil system if you aren't careful, or put too much on.
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Old 10-23-2015, 09:39 PM   #295
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****. I guess I know what I'm doing tomorrow.
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Old 10-23-2015, 09:43 PM   #296
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Teflon tape also can mess with grounding.

I've seen this recommended.

Locktite PST, Item Number 37615
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Old 10-24-2015, 12:29 AM   #297
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Both gauges work so there's no grounding issue. But the last thing I need is an oil related fubar failure.

Thanks for the heads up
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Old 10-26-2015, 04:30 PM   #298
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Replaced missing bushing on my rear sway bar.
3.636 ring and pinion came in straight from Japan, I just need to source a spare diff to have built on the side.
I really want to revisit my intercooler piping. Still debating if I want to change intercooler setups but that's not a high priority. I just have to finalize the routing before I start cutting holes for the charge pipe in the brand new LRB aluminum undertray that came in.

Next is to:
1) Wire up the LS2/7 coils with singular mounting brackets
2) Change front brake lines, bleed brake fluid
3) Bleed clutch fluid
4) Swap in 185F Thermostat, top off coolant


How does one make sure the knock sensor is working?

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Old 11-04-2015, 08:28 PM   #299
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Made a small harness for the coils

Went for a walk during lunch and took a photo. Autumn mode.



Hopefully get the coils on this weekend and change thermostat. Then take it to get it tuned in the coming weeks.
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Old 11-06-2015, 10:41 AM   #300
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Finished up the mounting of the LS coils and all the spacers. Essentially I just used flanged nuts on either side of the coils separated by generic hardware store 1" long 1/4" I.D. spacers. It fits perfectly across the length of the valve cover. Just need to shim maybe one or two washers per side and cut the threaded rod. I don't know if I should try to get the nuts welded on one side or just drill through and use a cotter pin on all ends just in case. Things have a tendency to rattle apart on my car (for instance cam sensors and VVT solenoids).

Got some fantastic input on muffler options to try to quiet the car down. Excited to explore these in the future.

Ordered new control arms because all the balljoints and bushings are destroyed. Could be causing a lot of the shake and rattle that I'm getting just driving around.

Also powdercoated NB rear subframe came in (thanks Cordycord). I have NB uprights coming in, but as I understand it, that'll push the rear out a bit. I'm probably shooting myself in the foot when I try to run wider wheels/tires next year.

I'll probably rebuild the front end first, then as soon as I find a donor diff to install the 3.63 gears, do the rear next season.
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