Turbo Smurfette - Build in progress (slow)
08-01-2014, 03:31 PM
#83
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Drives around nicely learning and adjusting in megasquirt. I just have to figure out why A/C doesn't work. The whole build is built around keeping that functional. I thought it was low on R134a so the clutch wouldn't engage, but even after recharge it doesn't work.
Is the A/C function affected by MS3, or does it just merely use the input to the A/C relay to trigger other things (like idle up and datalogging)?
Will test for leaks, but it was all working fine with MS1
Is the A/C function affected by MS3, or does it just merely use the input to the A/C relay to trigger other things (like idle up and datalogging)?
Will test for leaks, but it was all working fine with MS1
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08-01-2014, 04:47 PM
#84
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I may not be going to Germany after-all. It's a really tough decision to make, but another offer came up that aligns a bit better with my future career goals. We'll see....
I don't know if it's a megasquirt thing or if it's something else. The clutch doesn't kick on. I tried charging it and still nothing. I'll have to take it in to check for leaks, then figure out how to do all that diagnostic stuff.
That downpipe is HOT. Hot air is literally blowing in from the rubber shift boot thing where one bolt is broken. So hot. Not sure if I want to wrap the downpipe, but I may have to think about a refractive layer on the trans tunnel.
HOT
That downpipe is HOT. Hot air is literally blowing in from the rubber shift boot thing where one bolt is broken. So hot. Not sure if I want to wrap the downpipe, but I may have to think about a refractive layer on the trans tunnel.
HOT
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08-01-2014, 04:54 PM
#85
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Check if the clutch gets power. A simple DVM should do the trick. If there's no power it's an electric/electronic or charge problem. If it does get power, you may need a new compressor.
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08-07-2014, 05:18 AM
#86
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Thanks for the tips stefanst, I'll definitely have to check.
In the mean time, my car couldn't rev past 6k (voltage drop) while on the dyno so I'll try to add 10k uF capacitors to the power and ground of the COPS.
Could it be spark gap, currently 0.025" ?
Smurfette by Payam Fahr, on Flickr
In the mean time, my car couldn't rev past 6k (voltage drop) while on the dyno so I'll try to add 10k uF capacitors to the power and ground of the COPS.
Could it be spark gap, currently 0.025" ?
Smurfette by Payam Fahr, on Flickr
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08-07-2014, 08:30 PM
#90
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you know, I just looked up 99mx5's results and my setup is quite similar to his. He made so much torque down low, but peaked 1200rpms later than mine. I'm curious what would need to change for my EFR to spool up a bit quicker
I'm not sure. I'm not tuning the car myself, so in the end, it's better than I'll ever manage on my own.
I'm not sure. I'm not tuning the car myself, so in the end, it's better than I'll ever manage on my own.
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08-10-2014, 05:55 PM
#91
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Is 0.025" a little conservative on Toyota COPS? I'm wondering if my intermittent stumbling would be cured if I widen them up a tad for a slightly more powerful spark.
Or will running absolute pig rich cause blowout all the same. Up top, it's running mid 10 for AFR's. Just wondering. I don't record any sync errors so the trigger wheel is setup fine. It just sounds like it's misfiring randomly at high load, high RPM.
Or will running absolute pig rich cause blowout all the same. Up top, it's running mid 10 for AFR's. Just wondering. I don't record any sync errors so the trigger wheel is setup fine. It just sounds like it's misfiring randomly at high load, high RPM.
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08-11-2014, 10:44 AM
#92
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Brain said gap the spark plugs up to 0.040"-0.045" for Toyota cops. Hope this is the answer!!
IMG_9864 by Payam Fahr, on Flickr
IMG_9864 by Payam Fahr, on Flickr
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08-13-2014, 10:09 AM
#96
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Whoa, I don't know what happened to the image. But yea, the battery swelled. I got it replaced under warranty and drove around checking voltages (in megasquirt) under different loads. It doesn't exceed 14V which is seen only at cold start. But I have to get a multimeter on the battery terminals to see if it's continually charging.
I still have that 6k intermittent misfire popping noise. Can anyone take a peek at the tune?
I still have that 6k intermittent misfire popping noise. Can anyone take a peek at the tune?
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08-14-2014, 12:57 PM
#97
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Went to get the wheels rebalanced. Man, these things are rough. All are under 20lbs after dismounting and remounting and fidgeting with weights. I blame Rhode Island potholes.
While on the alignment rack, they pointed out how fragged my driveshaft was. U joint is floppy. Ordered a new driveshaft and complete set of eccentric bolts from 949. I have to get this car road-trip worthy to move down to VA/DC/MD in 2 weeks
While on the alignment rack, they pointed out how fragged my driveshaft was. U joint is floppy. Ordered a new driveshaft and complete set of eccentric bolts from 949. I have to get this car road-trip worthy to move down to VA/DC/MD in 2 weeks
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08-27-2014, 02:43 PM
#98
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Huge thanks to 949 Racing/Emilio for expediently handling the replacement driveshaft and alignment bolts. Car is safe to drive and all aligned.
FM Butterfly brace is installed and vibrates nicely against my Artech exhaust. Going to install diff bushings today and then Friday/Saturday I'll be returning to the DC metro area to start work.
I have a bad feeling about the health of the motor. It was pushing a lot of coolant out to the point of overflow after being run hard. I was wondering if I have a headgasket issue or a crack somewhere. I did notice the neck/nipple off the rad cap on my mishimoto radiator collecting evaporated coolant residue. I unthreaded it, shortened the threaded section a bit and re-sealed it before threading it back in. I think air was being drawn in and pressure was bleeding out here a bit like a pinhole leak. Hasn't overfilled since, and it has never overheated so I'll just keep my eye on it for now. I'm eyeballing that SuperMiata crossflow radiator next along with either Tecna or Xidas. It's a daily that will see winter, so I'm not sure if I want to subject Xidas to that.
I also noticed a smalll tiny amount of oil seeping from the turbo. I was worried about the oil seal on the turbine side. It looks thick and tacky. I called Full-Race about oil pressure and EFR's and they said they have seen folks running 100psi oil pumps without issue for the turbo even though max recommended pressure shouldn't exceed 60psi. My oil pump hits about 90psi until fully warm at which point max pressure is about 72psi (30psi idle). I think I have a severe case of blowby which caused drainage issues perhaps. The atmo filter on the driver side valve cover vent was saturated with oil from vapor (though it doesn't trickle down the valve cover). PCV is not hooked up to the intake manifold, but was not looking happy as well. I just vented it to atmo using a 1/2" line and the engine already started to run more smoothly. I need to find -10AN o-ring fittings for my catch can, however, I feel as though all this is just a bandaid to a larger underlying problem. I don't have time to do a leakdown yet since I'm in the midst of packing and tying up a few loose ends on some publications...I just hope I get back to D.C. at which point I'll have to have it checked out.
FM Butterfly brace is installed and vibrates nicely against my Artech exhaust. Going to install diff bushings today and then Friday/Saturday I'll be returning to the DC metro area to start work.
I have a bad feeling about the health of the motor. It was pushing a lot of coolant out to the point of overflow after being run hard. I was wondering if I have a headgasket issue or a crack somewhere. I did notice the neck/nipple off the rad cap on my mishimoto radiator collecting evaporated coolant residue. I unthreaded it, shortened the threaded section a bit and re-sealed it before threading it back in. I think air was being drawn in and pressure was bleeding out here a bit like a pinhole leak. Hasn't overfilled since, and it has never overheated so I'll just keep my eye on it for now. I'm eyeballing that SuperMiata crossflow radiator next along with either Tecna or Xidas. It's a daily that will see winter, so I'm not sure if I want to subject Xidas to that.
I also noticed a smalll tiny amount of oil seeping from the turbo. I was worried about the oil seal on the turbine side. It looks thick and tacky. I called Full-Race about oil pressure and EFR's and they said they have seen folks running 100psi oil pumps without issue for the turbo even though max recommended pressure shouldn't exceed 60psi. My oil pump hits about 90psi until fully warm at which point max pressure is about 72psi (30psi idle). I think I have a severe case of blowby which caused drainage issues perhaps. The atmo filter on the driver side valve cover vent was saturated with oil from vapor (though it doesn't trickle down the valve cover). PCV is not hooked up to the intake manifold, but was not looking happy as well. I just vented it to atmo using a 1/2" line and the engine already started to run more smoothly. I need to find -10AN o-ring fittings for my catch can, however, I feel as though all this is just a bandaid to a larger underlying problem. I don't have time to do a leakdown yet since I'm in the midst of packing and tying up a few loose ends on some publications...I just hope I get back to D.C. at which point I'll have to have it checked out.
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