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Old 09-15-2014, 10:08 AM   #121
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No no, you are correct. The thermostat is coupled a couole inches after the coolant outlet on the back of the block.
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Old 09-15-2014, 10:55 AM   #122
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I see. Both pieces required. Thanks again. I thought the outlet looked a little small to fit a thermostat into, but thought it was an illusion. Again, nice build.
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Old 09-18-2014, 09:49 PM   #123
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I want to build a spare block just in case. I picked up a bare block for 40 bux. I need a crank and will try to get all the parts to a machine shop for assembly. Ordering parts soon and thinking about a 949Racing CNC head.


edit: oh man, I think my EFR just blew. Looks like I may need a new block sooner than I thought

Last edited by psyber_0ptix; 09-21-2014 at 10:24 PM.
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Old 09-21-2014, 10:24 PM   #124
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So I was driving home from Baltimore and noticed the car wouldn't go into boost. It did make a pretty soft howl and thought it was a boost leak. I inspected the piping and couldn't find anything until I looked down the turbo inlet. Picture soon....
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Old 09-21-2014, 11:03 PM   #125
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Everything has been working fine until randomly I couldn't make boost. What causes this? Roasted bearings? Everything spins freely, but the shaft seems bent. I wonder if the turbine blades broke, causing the whole rotating assembly to go out of balance, allowing the compressor wheel to grind into the housing.

Thinking about quitting miatas.



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Old 09-21-2014, 11:55 PM   #126
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Ahhhh man.... I can't believe your luck.

I bet the shaft is busted. Does the turbine wheel turn when you spin the compressor? The earliest EFRs were known for munching shafts/turbine wheels/everything.
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Old 09-22-2014, 12:02 AM   #127
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compressor wheel turns, but it looks out of balance/wobbly. I couldn't dig my fingers to reach the turbine; it looks intact on the shaft though.

Seriously having to re-do everything is such a turn off. I almost don't want to undergo this anymore. All those aluminum shavings in the charge pipes and intercooler or whatever the motor has now ingested... It was utterly fantastic while it lasted. I just don't know if I have the will anymore
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Old 09-22-2014, 01:31 AM   #128
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Check throttle body for missing screws?
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Old 09-22-2014, 01:34 AM   #129
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
ouch. sorry man.

tb screw ingested possibly?
Quote:
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Check throttle body for missing screws?
I hope we're both wrong, but that's all I can think of as well.
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Old 09-27-2014, 02:09 PM   #130
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The motor is completely roasted. Cylinder head damage, looks like detonation eroded the piston. This build is fucked.

I already ordered internals for a spare block, but didn't factor in the cost of a head. I think I may have to let this one go.

Maybe.







cylinder 4


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Old 09-28-2014, 02:57 PM   #131
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Damn...sorry Psyber. Maybe take a break and clear the head for a while so you aren't so close to it. That has helped me big time when I get fed up with stuff.
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Old 09-28-2014, 04:21 PM   #132
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Props for carnage pics.

Sorry to hear man.
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Old 09-29-2014, 08:18 PM   #133
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So....


I ordered some parts but I'm not sure if I should be concerned. Supertech 84mm pistons 8.6:1 compression.

They look a lot shinier than I've ever seen in any photos. Is is possible that they missed the coating process? It doesn't even have any of their traditional logos or diameter markings. Maybe they aren't as flat or grey as I made them out to be?

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Old 10-06-2014, 04:36 PM   #134
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Purchased a vvt head off 18psi. Going to ditch the Toyota cops unless I get ultra creative with mounting. Any recommendations for what to run instead?


LS2? Fab9? Find a stock system and wire in somehow?
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Old 10-09-2014, 09:23 PM   #135
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Nb2 coils simili cops system is doing great in my car but I don't know with boost....
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Old 10-09-2014, 10:29 PM   #136
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I may end up going with the Fab9 kit for now. I don't have the resources or patience to adapt LSx coils at the moment. I'm going to pull the Supertech valvetrain off my old head and order replacement valves for the new VVT head and an inner spring kit to upgrade the seat pressure.

I have to figure out a way to pull the clutch out of the block so it can be balanced with the rest of the new motor.
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Old 10-10-2014, 12:59 AM   #137
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Very nice.
I was gonna say: have the head re-surfaced or at least inspected before you drop it in, but looks like you're going above and beyond with it, should be great.
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Old 10-10-2014, 01:10 AM   #138
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it'll give me time to source connectors and get all the ms3 stuff sorted. I don't want to revisit it again later on. Thinking about a larger throttle body and having the squaretop matched but haven't decided yet.
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Old 10-10-2014, 03:10 AM   #139
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With the right bit, it's <10 minutes with a dremel to match a squaretop to a skunk2 throttle body. But then, I guess it depends on how big you plan to go.
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Old 10-10-2014, 11:56 AM   #140
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Quote:
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With the right bit, it's <10 minutes with a dremel to match a squaretop to a skunk2 throttle body. But then, I guess it depends on how big you plan to go.
Skunk2 was pretty much the only consideration. I'm holding of for the moment till I get the small odds and ends in. Motor and head take priority, the car is still fun on stock throttle body.

Have to sell a couple parts first and really figure out what I need to do for knock module/ms3
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