Originally Posted by 18psi
don't touch the idle screw. ever
everything the oem ecu can do, the ms can do. so the idle screw should never be touched and remain how it left the factory
do the idle valve test. test ALL ranges. set lowest/highest based on maximum duty to achieve max rpm and minimum duty to achieve minimum rpm. now you have a window for CL idle control to work with. next you set the parameters for it
i will play with the settings some more, the way i have it setup now works great, except the 2 times that out of no where idle would go to 2.5k and wont come down for a few hours. then all of a sudden after driving an hour, will magically come back to normal. also while driving with the high idle condition, when i let off the gas to coast in gear, fuel overrun doesnt work and no fuel cut while coasting.
Now for my official first turbo project FAIL.
I ghetto rigged my air filter, as i didnt have the 3" diameter adapter at the time of building the turbo, so i mounted the filter to a smaller silicone hose...
Well the filter popped off and ripped, and a rubber piece got ingested into the turbo, and it looks like it bent some blades.
how hard is the compressor wheel to replace and where should i get one? or should i send the turbo to a pro to replace the wheel?
turbo seems to work fine, but the sound changed to more of a whistle than a whoosh