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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 07-02-2016, 01:58 PM   #141
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yeah you're exceeding the threshold and the car just defaults to high idle valve duty
this is what it took to get 950rpm idle, any higher % and idle i higher.

how do i bring idle low and have higher % pwm?
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Old 07-02-2016, 02:01 PM   #142
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There is a window of percentages that will make an appreciable difference on the idle, you need to use those percentages in the closed loop idle settings. Everything outside this window is non-linear and not to be trusted. 5% is way too low, never heard of any miata using those values.

After that, you need to set the idle screw so that it's ~700 rpm at the lowest percentage duty you found earlier.

Hope that helps.
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Old 07-02-2016, 03:25 PM   #143
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don't touch the idle screw. ever
everything the oem ecu can do, the ms can do. so the idle screw should never be touched and remain how it left the factory
do the idle valve test. test ALL ranges. set lowest/highest based on maximum duty to achieve max rpm and minimum duty to achieve minimum rpm. now you have a window for CL idle control to work with. next you set the parameters for it
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Old 07-02-2016, 03:46 PM   #144
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Originally Posted by 18psi View Post
don't touch the idle screw. ever
everything the oem ecu can do, the ms can do. so the idle screw should never be touched and remain how it left the factory
do the idle valve test. test ALL ranges. set lowest/highest based on maximum duty to achieve max rpm and minimum duty to achieve minimum rpm. now you have a window for CL idle control to work with. next you set the parameters for it
i will play with the settings some more, the way i have it setup now works great, except the 2 times that out of no where idle would go to 2.5k and wont come down for a few hours. then all of a sudden after driving an hour, will magically come back to normal. also while driving with the high idle condition, when i let off the gas to coast in gear, fuel overrun doesnt work and no fuel cut while coasting.

Now for my official first turbo project FAIL.

I ghetto rigged my air filter, as i didnt have the 3" diameter adapter at the time of building the turbo, so i mounted the filter to a smaller silicone hose...
Well the filter popped off and ripped, and a rubber piece got ingested into the turbo, and it looks like it bent some blades.

how hard is the compressor wheel to replace and where should i get one? or should i send the turbo to a pro to replace the wheel?

turbo seems to work fine, but the sound changed to more of a whistle than a whoosh



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Old 07-02-2016, 08:22 PM   #145
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That was a expensive lesson on ghetto rigging. I will learn from it though.
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Old 07-02-2016, 10:53 PM   #146
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That was a expensive lesson on ghetto rigging. I will learn from it though.
if i can fix it myself the compressor wheel is $50. but i am worried that it needs to be balanced to do properly.

I will probably send it out to pureturbos and have them fit an upgraded billet wheel, for more flow and faster spool, at the cost of $350

lesson learned. dont rush the install, use correct parts for the job.
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Old 07-06-2016, 05:19 PM   #147
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^I think that's a good idea. Wouldn't be a good idea to ghetto rig a fix for your ghetto rigged fix.
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Old 07-07-2016, 06:35 PM   #148
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ok. spoke to pureturbo, i am sending out my turbo to them and having them machine the compressor opening +1mm and install a gt2860 billet wheel.
They said same spool as stock wheel, and more flow.

Machine work, install and balance, $350. not bad.
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Old 07-08-2016, 11:09 AM   #149
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, $350. not bad.
K&N's most expensive air filter
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Old 08-09-2016, 10:21 AM   #150
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Got the turbo back from Pure Turbos with the billet gt2860 compressor wheel.

Removing the manifold/downpipe seems so straight forward, except that its almost impossible to reach half the bolts, so what seems like a 2 hour job, turns into a weekend full of wrenching and cursing.
Miata is back on the road. so not looking forward to having to remove the turbo again.

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Old 08-09-2016, 10:24 AM   #151
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Ooh nice, it's going to make a bit more topend
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