borka

iTrader: (1)

Thanks i did not know that.

do you think either one of these turbos will be a better fit for a max goal of 250hp and good spool?

GT25 GT28 T25 T28 GT2871 sr20 CA18DET Turbo turbocharger Water Cooled AR 64 | eBay

GT25 GT28 T25 T28 GT2860 sr20 CA18DET Turbo turbocharger Water Cooled AR 64 | eBay

borka

iTrader: (1)

or this?
For GT3076 GT30 Turbo turbocharger for 240sx S13S14 S15 sr20 KA24 T25 Flange | eBay

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

Given what you posted, I'd go with this one. It's bigger.

borka

iTrader: (1)

you dont think it will be too big?

my goal 230-250max. i dont need a turbo thats is overly big and will have higher potential than this and spool slow and all top end... i like midrange power best.

patsmx5

iTrader: (16)

I'm really not the person to ask if a turbo will be "too big".

If you want to maximize spool, stop looking at ebay turbos and get your wallet out.

I also like to build things with some headroom in the system for the inevitable "I want more". Also, a turbo working at 70% of what it's capable of doing will last longer than a turbo running at choke flow, especially an ebay special.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

If it is the spool that you seek, one only acquires EFR.

Your goals can be met using a gt2560 t25 setup. /thread

borka

iTrader: (1)

I know that a GT2560 is ideal, but its also >$1k

i am doing an ebay build here.

i am noob with turbos, i am not looking for top of the line ball bearing fast spool mega $$$ turbo. I want a cheap china turbo that is properly sized to get me to 230-250 hp.

if i go too small, (like i have with the turbo i have now) i wont reach my goal.
if i go too big, i will reach my goal, but it will spool late.

so i am looking for the right size cheap turbo that will get me to my goal and spool decently fast.

MKTURBO kit uses a cheap china T3 turbo and gets to 230ish HP no problem and spool is decent. so all i want is a comparable turbo in T25 flange.

borka

iTrader: (1)

In other news, more parts came in:

tacotaco T25 manifold:






Oil line:



Flow Force EV14 610cc injectors:



Still waiting on mslabs ms2e to come in. Rev says it will ship next week.
Once the ECU comes in, i can start the build.

2 Questions:

1. my turbo has an internal waste gate at 14psi. i want to start off with 10 psi, how do i adjust the IWG boost lower to 10psi?

2. shuiend: You mentioned that your T25 taco came with longer studs for the engine block, since the 4 outer bolt holes are thicker on the taco manifold...
My manifold did not come with the longer studs, how long are the extended studs? i ordered 4 M10 x 1.25 x 48mm long studs on ebay, i hope that 48mm is long enough.

Braineack

iTrader: (62)

If the specs are correct, this will be most silimar:

GT25 GT28 T25 T28 GT2860 sr20 CA18DET Turbo turbocharger Water Cooled AR 64 | eBay

It has the potential to spool better and have just as good, if not better, topend.


I'd really like to see the dyno of the one you already bought

borka

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, i thought the GT2860 should be pretty close.

I am leaning toward keeping the turbo i already have, instant spool sounds appealing to me, i value midrange way over top end, and i never shift above 6k anyhow. fast spool should be fun in AutoX.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

So I know you have all these parts coming in. How well do you have a handle on megasquirt? I believe this will be your bread & butter to a successful build.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

I think he underestimates how long it will take him to get his head around the MS.

borka

iTrader: (1)

i have ZERO experience with everything that is coming in.

I never had a stand alone ECU
I never held a turbo in my hands
I never took apart any car, only installed stereos, did tuneups and fluids.

last weekend i did a timing belt and front main seal successfully and that was a first for me too.

So this build is sort of a challenge for my self to take my skills to the next level.

as for tuning, i am watching videos, and doing lots of forum reading.

Girz0r

iTrader: (1)

Good, IMO I'd start with your current stock setup to start learning the megasquirt. Know it like the back of your hand before you put all these parts on your car. If you're ever in any trouble with your stock setup you just plugin the stock ECU & MAF and away you go

It'll give you time to dial in your cold starts & idle. power consumption etc with the megasquirt. Adding a turbo & injectors is just a few settings away & scaling your map for boost.

dr_boone

iTrader: (1)

Take your time. I've had megasquirt in for about a month and injectors for about a week. It takes a while to figure everything out. I don't plan on turboing for at least 2 more months of getting tuning figured out. I have been working on cars for 30+ years.

shuiend

iTrader: (24)

1. You buy a smaller waste gate, you cannot easily lower the wastegate level.
2. I said you would need longer studs. My t2 tacotaco manifold came with zero studs what so ever. I highly doubt the 48mm studs are long enough to reach out. If I was going to mount it and drive I would just goto my local Ace hardware and get 4 bolts that are the right thread pitch and long enough to go all the way through.


With zero knowledge of stand alone ECU's I fully expect it to take you 2-6 months for you to get your head wrapped around it all. There is a steep learning curve when you are starting out.

borka

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, i plan on doing MS first and tune my stock car, and drive around, tinker with tune, do a base dyno, install injectors, tune that, etc...

i expect to actually start bolting on turbo bits in about 1-2 month's.

or just bolt everything on, push "AUTOTUNE ALLOFIT" button and hope for the best.

borka

iTrader: (1)

So i seem to have a problem with the car.

I havent bolted anything on yet, my car is stock, except an RB header and RB muffler.
since i bought the car, it always had a P0421 code, but im assuming its due to the header and the lack of a front pre cat.

here is the issue, I took a 160 mile drive, everything was fine for the first 100 miles, then the car started to loose all power for a split second and gain it back and loose it again and get it back, all really fast in a split second, and this happened any time i pressed the gas pedal to accelerate, while maintaining steady speed it felt fine. and as i drove further, it got worse and worse, and eventually i could not keep highway speeds any more, as any time i tried to accelerate the car would loose all power and basically feel like i let off the gas pedal, white its actually pressed in.

so i pulled over, and popped the hood, car idles fine, no new codes show except the P0421 that i always had. tried to rev the engine by opening the throttle body, and it would rev and then stop revving and revs go down, while still holding the throttle body cracked open the engine will not rev up. it will rev up as soon as i crack open the throttle body, but then while still holding it open, the revs would start dropping, like i closed the throttle body. but im actually still holding it cracked open.

sound like a bad coil pack?

also i have a bluetooth OBDII dongle and Torque on my phone. i noticed its displaying timing advance typically in the 35-42 degree range when cruising. and about 20ish when floored. i changed the timing belt 2 weeks ago, so not sure if i messed up timing or what not.

18psi

iTrader: (76)

that or clogged exhaust or bad crank or cam sensor or timing off

borka

iTrader: (1)

also, i drove the car today (1 week after the problem) on a 20 mile drive, and it felt perfectly fine, i floored it going all the way to redline and it was perfectly fine.

so if i messed up the timing belt change, i assume the problem will be constant and not intermittent?

this leaves us with a bad cam sensor with intermittent problems. (its a 99 so no crank sensor right?)

i dont think the exhaust is clogged, it drove fine today and pulled really hard no problem.