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DIY Turbo Discussion greddy on a 1.8? homebrew kit?

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Old 12-10-2015, 02:58 PM   #441
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Now that the engine is out and apart again, the snowball is growing. If I went to a different turbo, I would need to trim a good amount off the shelf of the firewall. Is there any consequence to doing this, that anyone can foresee? turbos are expensive, so are downpipes. I'm trying to avoid having to buy a manifold too.
Any comments?
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Old 12-10-2015, 03:01 PM   #442
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You seem like a baller fabricator. Why aren't you building your own mani/downpipes?
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Old 12-10-2015, 03:08 PM   #443
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You seem like a baller fabricator. Why aren't you building your own mani/downpipes?
The shop where I work on my stuff, is an hour away, and to take a non running car back and forth just isn't feasible. Can't leave it there either. My entire build is pretty much going down in a carport on the side of my house.
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Old 12-10-2015, 03:11 PM   #444
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Hold turbo in engine bay, weld jig together. put header back on. Take your time welding a baller awesome manifold. Profit.
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Old 12-10-2015, 06:38 PM   #445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit View Post
Now that the engine is out and apart again, the snowball is growing. If I went to a different turbo, I would need to trim a good amount off the shelf of the firewall. Is there any consequence to doing this, that anyone can foresee? turbos are expensive, so are downpipes. I'm trying to avoid having to buy a manifold too.
Trimming the shelf is common on V8 swaps, and it hurts nothing. I did it a long time ago for clearance on my 3" downpipe.

I have an idea though, one option to consider. Put the car together with the manifold/turbo/downpipe/sweet as hardlines/sweet *** heat shield you already have and enjoy it. You should be able to make probably 260-280whp with that setup no problem on pump gas and a safe tune. More if you push it to the max though for reliability I wouldn't recommend it. I pushed my GT3271 to the max and that's how I wore out the thrust bearing and then the comp wheel hit the housing. But I was pushing it to choked flow.
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Old 12-19-2015, 08:42 PM   #446
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I had replaced the flange, to install the 10 mm studs, but I did a super shitty job the first time. So I fixed it today. Cut the old one off, made a new one, welded it on. Done.







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Finally my 1st (water cooled) turbo build-80-20151219_122834_f5a6cee10498efccdc2fc27e239091071b6b7f59.jpg   Finally my 1st (water cooled) turbo build-80-20151219_130221_034e345a27ec673d9ebd351f0820938a4836bf1e.jpg   Finally my 1st (water cooled) turbo build-80-20151219_194010_ebf31244a32151eb8176f58063243e89a352bdcb.jpg  
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Old 12-24-2015, 02:43 AM   #447
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Neat
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Old 12-27-2015, 05:21 PM   #448
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My take on securing nuts with wire, without drilling holes in stuff. Double wrap, Texas fence tie.

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Old 12-28-2015, 04:24 AM   #449
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Interesting. Do you have any experience if it actually holds them in place? My turbo-to-manifold ones get loose every now and then and I'm a bit worried that I'll damage the threads from the (ir)regular tightening up.
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Old 12-28-2015, 08:16 AM   #450
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If the mechanism through which it's locking relies purely on tension and not the tighten-loosen scheme, wouldn't the wire relax due to the increase in ductility as a result of a decreased flow stress at elevated temperatures?
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Old 12-28-2015, 08:22 AM   #451
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If the mechanism through which it's locking relies purely on tension and not the tighten-loosen scheme, wouldn't the wire relax due to the increase in ductility as a result of a decreased flow stress at elevated temperatures?
Possibly. It was an experiment, so time will tell. Thinking about it more, when you look at the wires in an old toaster, they are pretty stretched out. I'm not sure of the downpipe gets to that orange glow. Does yours?
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Old 12-28-2015, 08:26 AM   #452
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Interesting. Do you have any experience if it actually holds them in place? My turbo-to-manifold ones get loose every now and then and I'm a bit worried that I'll damage the threads from the (ir)regular tightening up.
I wouldn't use this method on a manifold to turbo. Stage 8 / Resbond.
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Old 12-28-2015, 08:29 AM   #453
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I haven't had a toaster in years :(
I honestly never set a gopro into the engine bay but it doesn't have to glow to get weaker.
I know the collector on my manifold probably glows as the swaintech coating is completely discolored at that location.

Very worst case, you have some extra thread poking out, you can always lightly jam it with another nut.

The only things that have shaken loose on my car has been the cam position sensor and the VVT solenoid. Quite literally vibrated apart.
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Old 12-28-2015, 01:47 PM   #454
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I wouldn't use this method on a manifold to turbo. Stage 8 / Resbond.
Right... I'll look around what we have available here in Slovakia.
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Old 12-28-2015, 01:56 PM   #455
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Right... I'll look around what we have available here in Slovakia.
Order from Track Speed?
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Old 12-28-2015, 03:54 PM   #456
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Thanks, but it will be much cheaper to buy an alternative product here
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Old 12-29-2015, 04:30 PM   #457
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I'll be surprised if that wire method works.
I tried it a long time ago and it fell off after a while.
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Old 12-29-2015, 04:57 PM   #458
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I'll be surprised if that wire method works.
I tried it a long time ago and it fell off after a while.
Yeah, I think your right. After a few beers it seemed genius. Today it looks lame. I'll just double nut it.
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Old 12-29-2015, 05:06 PM   #459
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Lock washer is a no-go?

I'd probably shoot for a flanged lock nut personally
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Old 12-29-2015, 05:19 PM   #460
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Lock washer is a no-go?

I'd probably shoot for a flanged lock nut personally
Because of the heat, I trust them about as much as the wire. Double nut is easy and pretty reliable.
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