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Old Dec 10, 2015 | 01:58 PM
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
Now that the engine is out and apart again, the snowball is growing. If I went to a different turbo, I would need to trim a good amount off the shelf of the firewall. Is there any consequence to doing this, that anyone can foresee? turbos are expensive, so are downpipes. I'm trying to avoid having to buy a manifold too.
Any comments?
Old Dec 10, 2015 | 02:01 PM
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You seem like a baller fabricator. Why aren't you building your own mani/downpipes?
Old Dec 10, 2015 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by aidandj
You seem like a baller fabricator. Why aren't you building your own mani/downpipes?
The shop where I work on my stuff, is an hour away, and to take a non running car back and forth just isn't feasible. Can't leave it there either. My entire build is pretty much going down in a carport on the side of my house.
Old Dec 10, 2015 | 02:11 PM
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Hold turbo in engine bay, weld jig together. put header back on. Take your time welding a baller awesome manifold. Profit.
Old Dec 10, 2015 | 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
Now that the engine is out and apart again, the snowball is growing. If I went to a different turbo, I would need to trim a good amount off the shelf of the firewall. Is there any consequence to doing this, that anyone can foresee? turbos are expensive, so are downpipes. I'm trying to avoid having to buy a manifold too.
Trimming the shelf is common on V8 swaps, and it hurts nothing. I did it a long time ago for clearance on my 3" downpipe.

I have an idea though, one option to consider. Put the car together with the manifold/turbo/downpipe/sweet as hardlines/sweet *** heat shield you already have and enjoy it. You should be able to make probably 260-280whp with that setup no problem on pump gas and a safe tune. More if you push it to the max though for reliability I wouldn't recommend it. I pushed my GT3271 to the max and that's how I wore out the thrust bearing and then the comp wheel hit the housing. But I was pushing it to choked flow.
Old Dec 19, 2015 | 07:42 PM
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I had replaced the flange, to install the 10 mm studs, but I did a super shitty job the first time. So I fixed it today. Cut the old one off, made a new one, welded it on. Done.







Attached Thumbnails Finally my 1st (water cooled) turbo build-80-20151219_122834_f5a6cee10498efccdc2fc27e239091071b6b7f59.jpg   Finally my 1st (water cooled) turbo build-80-20151219_130221_034e345a27ec673d9ebd351f0820938a4836bf1e.jpg   Finally my 1st (water cooled) turbo build-80-20151219_194010_ebf31244a32151eb8176f58063243e89a352bdcb.jpg  
Old Dec 24, 2015 | 01:43 AM
  #447  
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Neat
Old Dec 27, 2015 | 04:21 PM
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My take on securing nuts with wire, without drilling holes in stuff. Double wrap, Texas fence tie.

Attached Thumbnails Finally my 1st (water cooled) turbo build-80-20151226_142442_8aad4f916e3e57b071555f51c1cbb03d98d6e2b9.jpg  
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 03:24 AM
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Interesting. Do you have any experience if it actually holds them in place? My turbo-to-manifold ones get loose every now and then and I'm a bit worried that I'll damage the threads from the (ir)regular tightening up.
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 07:16 AM
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If the mechanism through which it's locking relies purely on tension and not the tighten-loosen scheme, wouldn't the wire relax due to the increase in ductility as a result of a decreased flow stress at elevated temperatures?
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
If the mechanism through which it's locking relies purely on tension and not the tighten-loosen scheme, wouldn't the wire relax due to the increase in ductility as a result of a decreased flow stress at elevated temperatures?
Possibly. It was an experiment, so time will tell. Thinking about it more, when you look at the wires in an old toaster, they are pretty stretched out. I'm not sure of the downpipe gets to that orange glow. Does yours?
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by whisper
Interesting. Do you have any experience if it actually holds them in place? My turbo-to-manifold ones get loose every now and then and I'm a bit worried that I'll damage the threads from the (ir)regular tightening up.
I wouldn't use this method on a manifold to turbo. Stage 8 / Resbond.
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 07:29 AM
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I haven't had a toaster in years :(
I honestly never set a gopro into the engine bay but it doesn't have to glow to get weaker.
I know the collector on my manifold probably glows as the swaintech coating is completely discolored at that location.

Very worst case, you have some extra thread poking out, you can always lightly jam it with another nut.

The only things that have shaken loose on my car has been the cam position sensor and the VVT solenoid. Quite literally vibrated apart.
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 12:47 PM
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Originally Posted by ryansmoneypit
I wouldn't use this method on a manifold to turbo. Stage 8 / Resbond.
Right... I'll look around what we have available here in Slovakia.
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by whisper
Right... I'll look around what we have available here in Slovakia.
Order from Track Speed?
Old Dec 28, 2015 | 02:54 PM
  #456  
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Thanks, but it will be much cheaper to buy an alternative product here
Old Dec 29, 2015 | 03:30 PM
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I'll be surprised if that wire method works.
I tried it a long time ago and it fell off after a while.
Old Dec 29, 2015 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by 18psi
I'll be surprised if that wire method works.
I tried it a long time ago and it fell off after a while.
Yeah, I think your right. After a few beers it seemed genius. Today it looks lame. I'll just double nut it.
Old Dec 29, 2015 | 04:06 PM
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Lock washer is a no-go?

I'd probably shoot for a flanged lock nut personally
Old Dec 29, 2015 | 04:19 PM
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Originally Posted by psyber_0ptix
Lock washer is a no-go?

I'd probably shoot for a flanged lock nut personally
Because of the heat, I trust them about as much as the wire. Double nut is easy and pretty reliable.



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