I just bought an F1 Racing 11.7 lb CroMo flywheel
02-10-2010, 10:35 PM
#25
Elite Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,420
Total Cats: 84
Well I got it (F1 Racing 11.7 lb flywheel) back from the balancing shop.
Balance was within 0.5 gram which is their limit.
So was the FM stage 1 clutch's pressure plate.
So was my crank which I had balanced 5 years ago.
Balance was within 0.5 gram which is their limit.
So was the FM stage 1 clutch's pressure plate.
So was my crank which I had balanced 5 years ago.
Reply
0
0
02-12-2010, 12:26 PM
#26
Moderator
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 20,652
Total Cats: 3,011
Some of the flywheels will have the wrong thread 8x1.25mm instead of 8x1.0mm for the bolts that hold the pressure plate down. Just go to the hardware store and pick up new bolts. I would use some medium strength loctite too and possibly lockwashers if the factory uses em too.
10.9 Hardware store or bolt store are necessary.
BTW - I've had mine for eight months and I wish I went even lighter on the weight.
Reply
0
0
02-13-2010, 07:17 PM
#29
Moderator
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Tampa, Florida
Posts: 20,652
Total Cats: 3,011
I didn't know the torque value for one thing. As long as I was in there and there was a negligible price difference, I was using good quality components, especially for drivetrain parts. I'm not sure it was necessary, but I feel good about it.
Reply
0
0
07-02-2010, 12:16 PM
#30
Elite Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 6,420
Total Cats: 84
Well 1500 miles later the flywheel and FM1 clutch work great.
Initially the FM1 clutch engaged way down near the floor even after their recommended adjustment procedure which maximizes stroke. (before procedure it wouldn't disengage and I got a bit of a panicky feeling). After about 200 miles it broke in some and got much better.
Clutch feel is good. Not too heavy underfoot.
Flywheel feels "pleasantly" lighter than the de-ridged (lightened) stocker, but not hugely so. The engine revs smoother than before (may be because it doesn't have a weak #2 cylinder lol).
Initially the FM1 clutch engaged way down near the floor even after their recommended adjustment procedure which maximizes stroke. (before procedure it wouldn't disengage and I got a bit of a panicky feeling). After about 200 miles it broke in some and got much better.
Clutch feel is good. Not too heavy underfoot.
Flywheel feels "pleasantly" lighter than the de-ridged (lightened) stocker, but not hugely so. The engine revs smoother than before (may be because it doesn't have a weak #2 cylinder lol).
Reply
0
0
11-19-2010, 01:03 PM
#31
Newb
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 16
Total Cats: 0
I was considering getting my stock 1.6 flywheel lightened but the shop wanted liek 250 ish for it i was like mmmmmm wait on that.
I ended up ordering clutchnet performance disc with street pp and a f1 flywheel.
I may have the shop balance the clutch kit and flywheel but i'm not sure how to have the disc maintain its centralized position. would it make sense to leave the alignment tool in place? should the shop worry about that not me haha??
I ended up ordering clutchnet performance disc with street pp and a f1 flywheel.
I may have the shop balance the clutch kit and flywheel but i'm not sure how to have the disc maintain its centralized position. would it make sense to leave the alignment tool in place? should the shop worry about that not me haha??
Reply
0
0
11-19-2010, 01:41 PM
#32
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 15,177
Total Cats: 1,681
I was considering getting my stock 1.6 flywheel lightened but the shop wanted liek 250 ish for it i was like mmmmmm wait on that.
I ended up ordering clutchnet performance disc with street pp and a f1 flywheel.
I may have the shop balance the clutch kit and flywheel but i'm not sure how to have the disc maintain its centralized position. would it make sense to leave the alignment tool in place? should the shop worry about that not me haha??
I ended up ordering clutchnet performance disc with street pp and a f1 flywheel.
I may have the shop balance the clutch kit and flywheel but i'm not sure how to have the disc maintain its centralized position. would it make sense to leave the alignment tool in place? should the shop worry about that not me haha??
Reply
0
0
11-19-2010, 02:13 PM
#34
Shuiend is an alarmist IMO. I've had several Clutchnet clutches without issue as well as dozens of other on here, including during that GB. Brain and I think one other person just had some bad luck. That could happen with any company. I wouldn't label it as a regularly occuring issue.
Reply
0
0
11-19-2010, 02:37 PM
#35
mkturbo.com
iTrader: (24)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Charleston SC
Posts: 15,177
Total Cats: 1,681
Shuiend is an alarmist IMO. I've had several Clutchnet clutches without issue as well as dozens of other on here, including during that GB. Brain and I think one other person just had some bad luck. That could happen with any company. I wouldn't label it as a regularly occuring issue.
Reply
0
0
11-19-2010, 02:51 PM
#37
Clutchnet=F1???
I bought an F1 clutch and flywheel kit from Gripforce. The PP wouldn't disengage. I've now used the F1 1.6 light flywheel with both an ACT PP/stock disc and a full ACT HD pp/disc with perfect results. What Lars said, I wouldn't do a cheapie PP/disc again.
I bought an F1 clutch and flywheel kit from Gripforce. The PP wouldn't disengage. I've now used the F1 1.6 light flywheel with both an ACT PP/stock disc and a full ACT HD pp/disc with perfect results. What Lars said, I wouldn't do a cheapie PP/disc again.
Reply
0
0
11-19-2010, 05:57 PM
#38
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fake Virginia
Posts: 19,338
Total Cats: 573
My twin plate clutch organic disks were made by clutchnet. For all their inability to coherently convey information I wanted, the disks were produced and worked flawlessly.
Reply
0
0
11-25-2010, 04:56 AM
#39
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Arl. Texas
Posts: 936
Total Cats: 27
Well 1500 miles later the flywheel and FM1 clutch work great.
Initially the FM1 clutch engaged way down near the floor even after their recommended adjustment procedure which maximizes stroke. (before procedure it wouldn't disengage and I got a bit of a panicky feeling). After about 200 miles it broke in some and got much better.
Clutch feel is good. Not too heavy underfoot.
Flywheel feels "pleasantly" lighter than the de-ridged (lightened) stocker, but not hugely so. The engine revs smoother than before (may be because it doesn't have a weak #2 cylinder lol).
Initially the FM1 clutch engaged way down near the floor even after their recommended adjustment procedure which maximizes stroke. (before procedure it wouldn't disengage and I got a bit of a panicky feeling). After about 200 miles it broke in some and got much better.
Clutch feel is good. Not too heavy underfoot.
Flywheel feels "pleasantly" lighter than the de-ridged (lightened) stocker, but not hugely so. The engine revs smoother than before (may be because it doesn't have a weak #2 cylinder lol).
Any more news to report on this? How is it wearing in? How have you been treating it?
Reply
0
0
11-25-2010, 09:56 AM
#40
2 Props,3 Dildos,& 1 Cat
iTrader: (8)
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Fake Virginia
Posts: 19,338
Total Cats: 573
I am currently running on the FM "heavy" flywheel and FM1 clutch after swapping out the twin plate clutch for a more daily drivery feeling car.
So far it's holding the ~250whp just fine and is a lighter pedal than my wife's civic's stock 100k mile clutch pedal. engagement is wherever I want it. Currently about an inch off the floor and there's more available.
So far it's holding the ~250whp just fine and is a lighter pedal than my wife's civic's stock 100k mile clutch pedal. engagement is wherever I want it. Currently about an inch off the floor and there's more available.
Reply
0
0
