Another excellent track day two weeks ago at Zolder, Belgium.
For one: Turbo still on manifold!
Two: got up to speed quickly and layed down some fast laps (1:56.6, well under SM track record)
Downside: brakes totally shot and they are getting a little more heat than is good for them. Zolder is a brake killer. Going to replace pads and rotors with the Good Win Racing version 4 rotos and XP12s and adding some ducting.
Also replacing right rear caliper (old) and master cylinder (just because)
as brake ducting. Going to use the original splash plates and attach there. Any better ideas?
Today is also the day that I learned this: Wilwood Disc Brakes for Racing On Track, Off Road, and Street Performance Q: How do I bleed a multi-piston caliper with the four-bleed screws?
A: Once the master cylinder has been bled, begin with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, usually the right rear and start with the upper outside nipple, then move to the upper inside nipple (never bleed the lower nipples). Repeat the process with each wheel, moving successively toward the wheel closest to the master cylinder. For best results the, the upper nipples should be pointing straight up because air migrates to the top of the chamber.
I could do a much better job on my plastic crap work. you put me to shame in that department.
FWIW, my ducting is much more janky and nasty, but it works wonders.
aBE, the car will cool better at speed. If your fans are coming on at all, something is not right with the ducting. You should move much more air at speed than with the fans at any rate. Stick your hand behind the radiator fan and feel the wind's force, now stick it out the car at 60mph. I can't even keep my car at 180* on the dyno, and I'm sticking cardboard in the radiator to block flow on the street.
So, that's a few pieces of hard black plastic taped on? Post more pics! From top, rear underneath looking forward, and top down in open hoop.
The fabwork is from a huge sheet of 2mm polystyrene, supposed to get softer at 90C, but it stays in tact. It may be another type of plastic actually. It's used in advertising billboard kind of stuff a lot.
The sides of the rad (full sides), together with the sides of the i/c is the hardest part to get a proper fit with lots of trial and error. The top is with the begi alu piece and the bottom is just some large flat pieces.
Apart from the black all weather tape, that is good until 70C and was letting loose, I applied this tape this time esp. around the rad: