Laur3ns

MLV screencap and someone wanted my MSQ.

Laur3ns

Vids:

Oscar

iTrader: (2)

that special someone was me I'll have a look at it later today, thanks!

This car looks bad-*** on pics and vids, but IRL it's even more awesomer. Had some tuning done on the same day as spooky. Quite happy with the result

Laur3ns

Chapter 13: Cooling, Ducting, Shrouding
Well, seems the inevitable started today to end my never ending cooling issues. I scored a huge 2mm sheet of HIPS (high impact polystyrene) and went to work.

Cold side is now sealed. Doing hot side tomorrow and bottom after that - which is also the easiest.

lightyear

You put in a big effort, well done. I don't think the oil cooler on the concrete is a good spot, it might get damaged when your driving.

naarleven

iTrader: (2)

Agreed :-P


Spooky where did you get that 3 gauge surround? Also, maybe I missed it but that 240hp was at what PSI/bar? Stock 94' compression? Headwork?

Laur3ns

From Conrad, it's a raidhp thing (German brand I suppose).

My MLV shows it all: 14psi. BEGI log manifold. Build engine 1:8.6 Supertech, read the goddamned thread

Laur3ns

Drove around with half the ducting in place and saw much better temperatures, also sustained 130+mph on the Autobahn.

Now it's all done, still need to road test. Track day tomorrow will tell more.

Laur3ns

GOD DAMNIT, I should've done this first thing. Sealing the mouth and especially the sides is WIN.

Water never went above 110C and oil never above 120C.
I was easily seeing 130C water/oil before.

Only the ductaping to the bottom of the rad is letting go, so I'll find something else for that.

Laur3ns

More pr0n for you all:

Laur3ns

Another excellent track day two weeks ago at Zolder, Belgium.

For one: Turbo still on manifold!
Two: got up to speed quickly and layed down some fast laps (1:56.6, well under SM track record)

Downside: brakes totally shot and they are getting a little more heat than is good for them. Zolder is a brake killer. Going to replace pads and rotors with the Good Win Racing version 4 rotos and XP12s and adding some ducting.

Also replacing right rear caliper (old) and master cylinder (just because)

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I'm in brake hell too.

Laur3ns

Ordered some:




as brake ducting. Going to use the original splash plates and attach there. Any better ideas?

Today is also the day that I learned this:
Wilwood Disc Brakes for Racing On Track, Off Road, and Street Performance
Q: How do I bleed a multi-piston caliper with the four-bleed screws?
A: Once the master cylinder has been bled, begin with the wheel farthest from the master cylinder, usually the right rear and start with the upper outside nipple, then move to the upper inside nipple (never bleed the lower nipples). Repeat the process with each wheel, moving successively toward the wheel closest to the master cylinder. For best results the, the upper nipples should be pointing straight up because air migrates to the top of the chamber.

Now reading:
http://www.wilwood.com/PDF/ds254.pdf

Laur3ns

Fixed all that by using Pattex double sided permanent tape that is good to 120C. And a good job of degreasing and black all weather tape.

Heat exchangers are now all very well sealed to the mouth. Splash pan also back in place.

AbeFM

iTrader: (3)

Wow, nice! Yes, as my tape aged/heated and got loose, it would start overheating again, I was starting to think the only solution was rivets rivets everywhere.

So, that's a few pieces of hard black plastic taped on? Post more pics! From top, rear underneath looking forward, and top down in open hoop.

I have all my ducting out and if the outside temps hit 90, 95 I'm on the cooling fans all the time, just daily driving.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I could do a much better job on my plastic crap work. you put me to shame in that department.

FWIW, my ducting is much more janky and nasty, but it works wonders.


aBE, the car will cool better at speed. If your fans are coming on at all, something is not right with the ducting. You should move much more air at speed than with the fans at any rate. Stick your hand behind the radiator fan and feel the wind's force, now stick it out the car at 60mph. I can't even keep my car at 180* on the dyno, and I'm sticking cardboard in the radiator to block flow on the street.

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I also think the ducting will help my bearings last just 2 sessions.

Laur3ns

The fabwork is from a huge sheet of 2mm polystyrene, supposed to get softer at 90C, but it stays in tact. It may be another type of plastic actually. It's used in advertising billboard kind of stuff a lot.

The sides of the rad (full sides), together with the sides of the i/c is the hardest part to get a proper fit with lots of trial and error. The top is with the begi alu piece and the bottom is just some large flat pieces.

Apart from the black all weather tape, that is good until 70C and was letting loose, I applied this tape this time esp. around the rad:

Pattex, als het ècht vast moet zitten!
This tape is for permanent fixation and is good until 120C which should last a while. So that - with black tape over the edges should stay in tact.

Only with ducting. Without proper ducting your car will cool less at high speed. Temps would climb steadily when cruising 160kmh. Also because you're generating more heat in that department.

Question is, at speed, is it better to have them run or not - when are they less of an obstruction? My guess is when running...?

You don't run a tstat? Mine stays at 83 all day.

Just what are you talking about?

hustler

iTrader: (6)

I'm killing the bearings in my car, I assume its from rotor heat.

I have a thermostat, but for some reason the thermostat opens, then temp drops dramatically...like the water coming through the radiator is extra cold or something. Its not a big deal on the track.

Laur3ns

Wheel bearings? Brake ducting should help that, ok... though you we referring to engine bearings w/regards to heat ex ducting..?!

I only see that the first the the tstat opens after cold start, in MSPNP, not so much afterwards.