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The Dedicated URABUS Thread
#1163
I'm on vacation and typing on a phone right now so I can't post anything all that elaborate.
Regarding the TGV deletes, I did a very detailed analysis of TGV operation on the new fa20dit here http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2687550
For the pre 2008 ej engine the tgv is to improve mixing and stabilize combustion during catalyst light off. You can delete and compensate with tuning. For the 08-14 EJ engines I simply have not done the research on all the various details.
I do know that the 08-14 uses secondary air injection to meet the California LEV II emissions for NMOG non methane organic gas, basically hydrocarbons, and CO on the FTP test cycle. In 2013 the NMOG standard tightened for 20 Fahrenheit cold start so I don't know if anything changed there. I'm not sure at this time how the TGV interacts at cold start with the secondary air staging and control between banks.
I know the TGV works at part throttle for faster burn, but it's not as critical on the EJ as the fa20dit because it's port injection and it doesn't use cooled high pressure egr.
Should you delete it? You can do so but you need to tune for it. Will you gain performance? Deleting a TGV increases the flow of the port. I'm skeptical of nasioc proven power bragging claims in general (too many swinging dicks in that forum), so I'm not one to wade into quantifying horsepower increase here. Will deleting it hurt your car or your fuel economy? If you tune for it, you're probably fine. Will you notice the fuel economy hit? Hard to say, but fuel economy has so many mental placebo effects and driving style aspects.
These things can be answered better with datalogs to view and stock maps to understand. I just haven't dug into it on the EJ like I did with the fa20dit.
Regarding the TGV deletes, I did a very detailed analysis of TGV operation on the new fa20dit here http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2687550
For the pre 2008 ej engine the tgv is to improve mixing and stabilize combustion during catalyst light off. You can delete and compensate with tuning. For the 08-14 EJ engines I simply have not done the research on all the various details.
I do know that the 08-14 uses secondary air injection to meet the California LEV II emissions for NMOG non methane organic gas, basically hydrocarbons, and CO on the FTP test cycle. In 2013 the NMOG standard tightened for 20 Fahrenheit cold start so I don't know if anything changed there. I'm not sure at this time how the TGV interacts at cold start with the secondary air staging and control between banks.
I know the TGV works at part throttle for faster burn, but it's not as critical on the EJ as the fa20dit because it's port injection and it doesn't use cooled high pressure egr.
Should you delete it? You can do so but you need to tune for it. Will you gain performance? Deleting a TGV increases the flow of the port. I'm skeptical of nasioc proven power bragging claims in general (too many swinging dicks in that forum), so I'm not one to wade into quantifying horsepower increase here. Will deleting it hurt your car or your fuel economy? If you tune for it, you're probably fine. Will you notice the fuel economy hit? Hard to say, but fuel economy has so many mental placebo effects and driving style aspects.
These things can be answered better with datalogs to view and stock maps to understand. I just haven't dug into it on the EJ like I did with the fa20dit.
#1170
I'd be pretty bummed if it wasn't, lol.
It's advertised as 10cm² vs the stock ~7cm² or something like that.
You can clearly see the difference
The plan is for it to go on a shelf with the rest of the oem parts
The stocker maxes out at 350/400 on corn.
My goal is 400/400 on corn with this supposedly much better reathing snail.
It's advertised as 10cm² vs the stock ~7cm² or something like that.
You can clearly see the difference
The plan is for it to go on a shelf with the rest of the oem parts
The stocker maxes out at 350/400 on corn.
My goal is 400/400 on corn with this supposedly much better reathing snail.
#1171
Hey subaru experts....
So I have 2 issues with the 05 outback XT Limited that I think are related but not sure.
1. When cold starting the car, it stumbles to life, runs like it's flooded at first.
2. At a dead idle, when hot, the idle is a touch rough. BUT, if you barely touch the gas, it gets like 5x worse! Then give it a touch more gas and it runs fine.
Any ideas what would cause this? Do you think it's 2 separate issues or 1 causing both?
So I have 2 issues with the 05 outback XT Limited that I think are related but not sure.
1. When cold starting the car, it stumbles to life, runs like it's flooded at first.
2. At a dead idle, when hot, the idle is a touch rough. BUT, if you barely touch the gas, it gets like 5x worse! Then give it a touch more gas and it runs fine.
Any ideas what would cause this? Do you think it's 2 separate issues or 1 causing both?
#1175
It's an OFS cobb map, for stage 2, the safest map they have. I run 93 Octane. Have the BP TMIC mod with a pusher fan on the IC.
The accessport was bought new about a year ago, I don't know what version it is, I'll go check in a minute.
I guess I need to go see what the fuel trims do as you say. Will the fuel trims be active on a cold start though? I know it will for hot idle of course.
The accessport was bought new about a year ago, I don't know what version it is, I'll go check in a minute.
I guess I need to go see what the fuel trims do as you say. Will the fuel trims be active on a cold start though? I know it will for hot idle of course.
#1176
CL idle kicks in after about 5-10 seconds. Before that it runs OL, and if your mass airflow scaling is too fat down there it will run really rich, most cobb maps do.
There are a dozen other things that could cause this, but I'm suggesting you start with the easiest/most obvious
What's a BP tmic? stocker with the reinforcement mod?
There are a dozen other things that could cause this, but I'm suggesting you start with the easiest/most obvious
What's a BP tmic? stocker with the reinforcement mod?
#1178
Elite Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Outside Portland Maine
Posts: 2,023
Total Cats: 19
I need new pads and rotors for the front of my '05 OBXT. I had some stoptech pads and centric rotors, but they grind if I let the car sit more than 3 days (or overnight if it rains), and the rotors are shot after like 3 years. I expected to get a couple sets of pads out of a set of rotors.
I'm thinking about the Wagner Thermoquiets because they're cheap and get good reviews. Thoughts?
And I can't imagine why the rotors died so fast on their own, so I'll probably get centrics again unless you guys have better ideas.
The stoptechs in the back are still in decent shape for now so I'm keeping those.
I'm thinking about the Wagner Thermoquiets because they're cheap and get good reviews. Thoughts?
And I can't imagine why the rotors died so fast on their own, so I'll probably get centrics again unless you guys have better ideas.
The stoptechs in the back are still in decent shape for now so I'm keeping those.
#1179
I need new pads and rotors for the front of my '05 OBXT. I had some stoptech pads and centric rotors, but they grind if I let the car sit more than 3 days (or overnight if it rains), and the rotors are shot after like 3 years. I expected to get a couple sets of pads out of a set of rotors.
I'm thinking about the Wagner Thermoquiets because they're cheap and get good reviews. Thoughts?
And I can't imagine why the rotors died so fast on their own, so I'll probably get centrics again unless you guys have better ideas.
The stoptechs in the back are still in decent shape for now so I'm keeping those.
I'm thinking about the Wagner Thermoquiets because they're cheap and get good reviews. Thoughts?
And I can't imagine why the rotors died so fast on their own, so I'll probably get centrics again unless you guys have better ideas.
The stoptechs in the back are still in decent shape for now so I'm keeping those.
I now have 3k miles towing a miata on a tow dolly, and the odometer is around 129k, had the car 3yrs 8 months. Brakes work great*, all I've done is bleed/flush the brake fluid once/year, which btw helps with the sponge-pedal feature on these a lot.
*as far as outback's go.